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| Water Blaster with Abrasive attachment |
| Author |
Message |
    
Len TATE
| | Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2003 - 12:13 am: | 
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Having despaired of getting good results from my cheap abrasive blasting cabinet, I thought I'd try the abrasive attachment that comes as an option for my 2000PSI water blaster, as a means of rust removal from a pile of old Blaxland marine engine bits -in awful condition from salt water rusting.
I used fine beach sand as the medium, and boy, did it remove rust fast! The bits must be painted very quickly after blasting as they rust again while you decide the new colour.
One minor drawback -what a mess! Sand,rust and water everywhere including in my hair. I recommend a deep sea diver's outfit, complete with brass helmet, glass window, and a windscreen wiper fitted.
Oh, I forgot to mention the large hole eaten in my concrete driveway. |
Loyyd Bridges
| | Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2003 - 02:51 am: |
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Strange how we seem to have similar experiences....I bought a wet blaster for my Karcher.. works like a dream and I discovered that a diving mask was imperative.. the schnorkel & flippers i'v retained for my next trip to a tropical paradise. Also a length of old conveyor belt from Revovle solved the problem of chinamen bursting thru the hole in my yard...but if you do it on the lawn the mess is minimised. But then you dont have a lawn. Maybe a neighbour would help out in return for " funniest home video" rights. Now for the piece d' resistance ... wait for it... put some copper sulfate in with the sand. You will find the surface takes on a reddish brown colour which is not rust but a micro thin passivation of copper... dont ask me how this happens. I havent tried a zinc salt but that may give a zinc passivation. I think the Diving suit may make you a "security risk" which is why I abandoned the flippers & schnorkel.... |
peter ogborne
| | Posted on Sunday, March 23, 2003 - 07:41 am: |
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A solution would be to ''do it '' on the beach ! |
Robert
| | Posted on Monday, March 01, 2004 - 04:14 pm: |
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Try using baking soda instead. Can be used on brass (they say) and the stuff dissolves much more easily than sand! |
Richard Day
| | Posted on Monday, March 01, 2004 - 04:59 pm: |
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What a pleasure to hear our friends down under with great new ideas. I wonder how the loving wife takes to the hole in the drivway?? Perhaps it is a great place to plant another shrub!!!. |
peter ogborne
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 07:30 am: |
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I have been using a cheap sand blaster[$A24] unfortunately I can't find anything down here but very fine beach sand ,works ok but i will have to devise a sand hopper that keeps the sand loose enough to keep the supply up to the gun . With the baking soda what kind of finish does it give to brass? |
Robert
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 03:03 am: |
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Unconfirmed reports say it does a lovely job of taking everything down to bare metal: grease, dirt, paint, rust, blows 'em all away. According to the gent I talked to who had had a business doing soda blasting, it was used for removing paint from aircraft, woodwork, fibreglass boats etc. etc. all without damaging the base material. I guess I'd better shell out for the over-priced attachment and find out for myself...I could see how a pressurized pot might be necessary though. |
randy f howell
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 17, 2004 - 06:41 pm: |
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has anyone had any experience using the soda blaster on hull sides or interior of boats prior to repainting over gelcoat. |
robert
Senior Member
Username: robert
Post Number: 116
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2004 - 01:33 pm: |
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Some not very good photos of the soda blast results. For paint, grease, dirt and light rust it seems to do a great job. Obviously the heavier scale as on the flywheel either takes more time or is just too hard - I don't know which. The one thing soda is perfect for is taking paint or tarnish off brass or other soft metals. The spark & throttle levers came up beautifully, needing only buffing and with none of the stippling that you get with glass beads. The only thing that would do as well is perhaps tumbling or blasting with walnut shells or some other "soft" media. So, on ferrous metals where original paint has prevented rust, soda can leave a paint-ready surface IMO. I should add that there is a dusting of soda all over the engine that shows up in the photos - except on the flywheel that is not old paint!
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ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 428
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Friday, October 29, 2004 - 07:56 am: |
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I have one that I havn't used yet. I know I would rather deal with the water and splash than dust from sand. I know Dick Day has had good success with one. Mine was like 60 bucks from Northern Hydraulics. I already had the pressure washer. What are you using for "soda" We are using sand here in the lower 48. |
robert
Senior Member
Username: robert
Post Number: 117
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, October 31, 2004 - 01:57 am: |
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I should point out that the Gray was not done by me, but by a commercial soda-blaster. They use more soda and less water than our pressure washers would. Did use the blast attachment on my 2000psi 5hp unit and it did well with regular sand, but as you've all noticed it is best done on an empty lot! I can't get soda here, have to go to Vancouver for it. I guess we could use corncob, walnut shell or almost anything. Anyway, I've found an ultrasonic cleaner the size of a washing machine and a big ol' parts washer so engines will come clean faster now.
By the way, it looks like this Gray Model T was finished in black with a grey flywheel; is that correct for this period? The cylinder head cap is too pitted to plate so will just get a fill & glossy paint job. Pity they didn't make it in brass... |
Jerry
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 23, 2005 - 06:48 pm: |
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