| Author |
Message |
    
Steven Haushahn
New member
Username: alphawolf45
Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 09:04 am: | 
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I am reading ALL the posts on this forum. Reading from oldest to latest posts ..Am only thru about 25% so far..Havent seen this covered yet.
What material is used today to make the ignitor points for a make and break ignition?
..The book "How to build a three horsepower launch engine " specifies 1/16 inch dia. platinum wire..Says that back then platinum in that size was used in false teeth......Is there any other material that will serve as well? |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 931
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 11:56 am: |
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Nickel rod was widely used but threaded 1/4" inch nickel is not cheap anymore and brass threaded works well with steel as the flapping portion of the ignitor mechanism. If you get nickel rod don't mix it with cad plated as you will find nickel is magnetic and you cannot tell the difference with a magnet. |
Steven Haushahn
New member
Username: alphawolf45
Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 12:57 pm: |
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Richard Day..You are saying that nickel is suitable material for the igniter contacts? And even brass would work? ..For a working engine doing duty in a boat?
. |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 932
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 04:15 pm: |
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Well I have run my make and break engines with brass rod for many years. Don't remember ever seeing a nickel rod in a working m/b engine. If there are so be it. My experience suggests brass simply forms a ball like tip from engines I have taken old ignitors out of. The reason the rod is threaded is so the working waterman could simply loosen the knurled locking nut and rotate the rod down a small amount. Best I can offer!!! |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 933
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 04:21 pm: |
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I missed explaining one point. The moving portion of the ignitor is simply a piece of flat steel on the end of the shaft which is tripped by the flywheel rotation. I don't think of it as points in distributor. The steel plate is often about 1/2" square by 1/8" thick. |
Steven Haushahn
Member
Username: alphawolf45
Post Number: 4
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 04:35 pm: |
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Thanks thats good enough for me. I believe you...I have read a lot of your posts. I appreciate the help...
I admit I dont yet understand the igniter on that engine in the book..I need to get my magnivisor from the shop and along with my bifocals I should understand the mechanism... I am researching with an eye to building that engine.. Want to make certain I can finish it if I begin the build...So apparently I dont need platinum and that was my major concern...Thank you. |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 1302
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 - 09:29 pm: |
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I use nails. Plenty of sizes available and replacements are easily sourced |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 934
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, January 06, 2011 - 07:42 am: |
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Ernie's point is well taken. When you consider the thousands of farm hit and miss engine a large percentage used steel on steel for demountable ignitors. |
John Davis
Senior Member
Username: johnny
Post Number: 379
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, January 08, 2011 - 08:19 pm: |
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If I remember correctly I think my dad told me he uses nails or rebarb. Steel that is low on carbon works best. Does that sound correct? I have three or four ignitor engines but have not had to replace the points. |
