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Needle valve on the 4 atlantic

Old Marine Engine » Atlantic - Lunenburg Foundry » Needle valve on the 4 atlantic « Previous Next »

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Robert James Hanson
New member
Username: rjh

Post Number: 3
Registered: 09-2006
Posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 08:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Trouble today. I knew the needle valve wasn't set right on our 4 atlantic, so today while we were motoring along (with the motor sort of missing a beat once in a while), I decided I would fool with it and try to get it running better. Of course I ended up closing it too much and it cut out, then no matter what I did I could not get it started anymore. So we proceeded to row the 2 or 3 miles back to the nearest dock. Would an improper needle valve setting cause the motor to 'miss a beat' as I mentioned above, and could someone post instructions on how to set it right? (I can't get it to fire at all now)I read the article 'Antique marine engine tips' and it contains instructions, but I'm not sure that my motor is the same as the ones he's talking about there. (the 4 atlantic we have is only about 15 years old)
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Robert McCleery
Member
Username: beardedskipper

Post Number: 8
Registered: 02-2005
Posted on Friday, September 22, 2006 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Robert, The Atlantic is very sensitive to the needle valve, so much so that I open it a 1/3 turn when cold starting then close it the same running warm. most common cause of failure to fire is gas/oil in the base, a spoonful will make it completely dead. Drain and you should be back underway Rob
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J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos

Post Number: 173
Registered: 07-2002


Posted on Saturday, September 23, 2006 - 06:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If you were leaning the mixture, opening it should have allowed it to start right up, maybe a crank or two with it choked. If you were running it rich you could have flooded it. There's a good chance you were trying an adjustment to corect a different problem. Poor ignition will make an engine sound as if it's running rich, leaning will make it kill. Check for a weak battery or fouled ignitor, with the ignitor closed "make and break" the wire to the terminal, it should draw a spark when pulled away. Also open the petcock on the bottom of the carb, water will kill them. Water is heavier than gas and a small amount will stop the flow up the tube, richening or choking will allow it to pull through while running but you can imagine it won't run correctly.
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Robert James Hanson
Member
Username: rjh

Post Number: 4
Registered: 09-2006
Posted on Sunday, September 24, 2006 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the advice gentlemen, I've read about draining the base, but I can't find any kind of plug to remove other than a square plate on the side/bottom of the motor that looks like it's never been removed. Might this be the opening for draining the base ?
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miro forest
Senior Member
Username: miro

Post Number: 244
Registered: 11-2001


Posted on Monday, September 25, 2006 - 02:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I want to echo JB's comments from practical expereince.

I went for a couple of years, living with a motor that would start and run OK- sort of.

I kept fooling with the carb and the fuel system.

But 2 years ago, I refurbished the aspirin tablet sized contact in the ignition timer with a new one, and it was like a new engine - more power, more RPM, better fuel economy.

I heard one of the old guys say - 80% of the problems with marine engines is electrickery.

miro
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Doug Kimball
Advanced Member
Username: doug11k

Post Number: 31
Registered: 12-2003
Posted on Monday, September 25, 2006 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Robert,
I've recently been helping a friend with a 4 hp make & break Atlantic in a 20' Boston power dory. The originally did not originally have a crankcase drains. We drilled & tapped the bottom of base for 1/4" npt & installed a ball valve. It's been helpful to have it.
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J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos

Post Number: 176
Registered: 07-2002


Posted on Monday, September 25, 2006 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Don't forget that ignitors can foul just like sparkplugs.The stationary point is supposed to be insulated, if it gets carboned up, the spark will track to ground instead of arcing at the points. Remove it, spray with carb cleaner and brush it off.
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Robert James Hanson
Member
Username: rjh

Post Number: 6
Registered: 09-2006
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2006 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for all the help, we finally got the motor running. We cleaned up the ignitor, filed the points and cleande the whole assembly, and after a little bit of fooling around, she runs perfect.

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