| Author |
Message |
    
Nick Field
Member
Username: putt
Post Number: 5
Registered: 01-2011
| | Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 07:51 am: | 
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Hello
Are there any tips to staring a motor that hasn't run for some time.
The motor has been reconditioned.
Information on starting procedure would also be helpful
This will be started on a bench.
All information greatly appreciated.
Nick |
Laurie Derwent
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 106
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 07:28 pm: |
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Nick,
Re starting procedure - Assuming this is a standard Blaxland (single or twin)and the carby has been set up correctly. First ensure you have a water supply ready for cooling (gravity or allowing the pump o suck the water from about the same level as the pump is better than mains pressure). Second, ensure the magneto is soundly locked in with the magneto perpendicular to the crankshaft (the other notch allows it to be set at an angle for reverse running). Ensure the spark plug is clean and the gap is correct (see note below re WD40). Then connect the plug lead ensuring a nice firm connection. Connect fuel (32:1 fuel/oil - I use premium unleaded for a bit of extra kick) with the fuel tank about 50 to 60 cms above the carby, and prime the carby by holding the button with the spring down until fuel comes out. Set the throttle at about 1/3. Then prime the engine by rocking the motor backwards and forwards on comprssion with your thumb over the throat of the carby (you can use a rag instead of your thumb). After several rocks throw the flywheel over compression (note that the Blaxlands I've seen have the dircetin arrow on the flywheel point in the reverse direction. You can also use a belt to pull it over if you are not successful in the rock start exercise). To help prime the motor after a long break I often squirt some WD40 or similar into the cylinder before the priming - and if so the motor will tend to kick over on the first rock. You may need to choke the carby for a few seconds until it warms up. When it is warm tune the carby by adjusting the jet (underneath) to optimise idle speed. Enjoy! |
Bruce Findlay
Senior Member
Username: bruce_findlay
Post Number: 58
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 07:54 pm: |
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That was an excellent start-up description Laurie, I do everything the same as that except for the WD40 trick. The only thing I would add is to give the grease cups a half to one full turn clockwise to push some grease into the bearings and to quirt some oil or spray grease onto the the timing gears and the water pump journal. Bruce |
Laurie Derwent
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 107
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 08:34 pm: |
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Gentlemen, I agree fully with Bruce's notes about grease and oil (using heavy grade oil). Also, after stopping the motor don't forget to screw down on the grease cups half a turn and roll it over a coupe of times just to top up the protection of the bearings between uses. If the motor is kept in a salty environment then a spray of suitable protectant over the motor, muffler etc (but not the magneto) after it is stopped also helps. I use a lanolin based spray. |
Nick Field
Member
Username: putt
Post Number: 7
Registered: 01-2011
| | Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 08:46 pm: |
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Thanks for the quick replies, I'll lubricate the bores and follow the start up procedure.
Great
Thanks again
Nick |
quinton wilkinson
Advanced Member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 43
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 01:49 am: |
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Is there a database or list of memebers with Blaxlands
Quinton |
quinton wilkinson
Advanced Member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 44
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 01:52 am: |
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Blaxland Twin , when lining up the prop shaft flange to the clutch flange should they meet without having to move the shaft upwards. When I disconnect the flange from the clutch and let it lie intouched it is about 0.5mm off centre to the clutch face id this okay ??
Quinton
????? |
Todd Vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 212
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 05:47 pm: |
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You will get a bit of "sag" in the shaft,especially
as it is only 3/4 inch in diameter.
What you need to achieve is near perfect alignment
by getting both faces as parallel as possible.
By adjusting the position of the motor adding or
removing shims under the 4 mount points and moving
the motor from the front and rear we aim to get
within 0.002" when using a feeler gauge at the
3,6,9, and 12 o clock positions.
The closer you get it means less wear on the
shaft,stern glands,clutch,and engine.
It will also reduce vibration,and believe it or
not.It will improve engine power output and performance.Miss-alignment = friction = hp loss.
These are low hp motors, dont give your "neddies" a chance to escape.
Todd |
Laurie Derwent
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 108
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 06:45 pm: |
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Quinton, What Todd is saying is if your shaft is laying to the left or right of the motor coupling then you do have an alignment problem (which can be fixed by carefully re-aligning your motor). If it is a vertical drop of 1/2 mm and the distance betwen your coupling and stern gland is around 1 metre or moreI'd say your alignment is as close as you are likely to get it. As for the weed from the Lake I'd suggest this is a good case for a closed system. Regards Laurie |
