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| Blaxland Master Pup......Getting it S... |
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Geoff Archer
| | Posted on Sunday, January 27, 2002 - 10:06 pm: | 
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I am restoring a 3hp Master Pup which I have taken out of a 15 foot cedar lauunch and despite all my efforts(many many hours)can not get the bugger to start.
I also need to know the "good oil" on repairing what appear to be small cracks in the water jacket (surrounding the brass name plate) which are allowing tiny amounts of water to seep through. I intended to weld them with a CI repair electrode , but hve decided to hold off incase someone her has a better solution.In the event that the cylinder (a one pice unit compared with the two piece Super Pup 31/2 HP) does not survive surgery , does any one know where I could beg borrow or buy a replacement cylinder as it would be a crying shame if this beautifull little engine did not see any more days. |
Richard Day
| | Posted on Monday, January 28, 2002 - 09:31 pm: |
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Don't weld use epoxy. |
peter ogborne
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2002 - 07:52 am: |
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Geoff.....further to Richards advice on epoxy . I have repaired 5 marine engines using epoxy and all with outstanding success . The extent of the repairs have ranged from cutting out the whole side of a water jacket and replacing a '' patch '' to the repair of small cracks . I use a product called Epigen . It is available here in Perth a 250 ml pack costs approx $24 .00 and is available from Peerless Plastics . I can send you more details if you wish .
Only today I repaired a 6hp Hornsby engine with the same product . Prior to this the crack in the water jacket wall had been repaired with Devcon ,when that eventually failed Silicon was used . It sort of worked except that there were water leakes and it looked bloody awful !
Now you boat puts to sea so different circumstances arise .However I have run my engines at boiling temp to test the repair ........no failure . |
Geoff Archer
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2002 - 06:53 pm: |
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Peter and Richard..
Thanks very much for your assistance.
Having taught metallurgy for several years I was concerned with simple electric or gas welding as with the (relatively) uncontrolled heating and cooling that this entails some nasty iron/carbon/silicon compounds can result that would possibly render the component useless afterwards. Blaxland Chapman most likely used
Grey Iron which was probably made from a hotch potch of other old castings thrown into a blast furnace without much control over its alloying ingredients.
Im definitely interested in Epigen and your experience/ suggestions on using it to repair the cracks.
Peter.. the spark plug in this engine appears to have a tapered (gas) thread . Are they supposed to screw right down into the head, (champion type 25)mine seems to only want to screw down less than one turn and gets very tight. Is this normal . I did not want to over tighten it incase it stripped the thread in the head or broke something.You mentioned you had success using a 14mm plug with an adaptor. How did you do it?
Reards ...Geoff |
olarry
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2002 - 07:06 pm: |
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Be carefull you probably don't have the correct plug!Pipe threads should be loose when you start and tighten only after they get in a good bit.There is a sparkplug size with straight threads that is close enough that they get confused. |
olarry
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2002 - 09:08 pm: |
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Oop's I should let the experts answer this.Maybe you just need to clean the threads up some. |
peter ogborne
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2002 - 08:32 am: |
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Geoff.....Olarry would be correct ,you may be trying to screw in an 18mm spark plug . What i did was take a piece of 1 1/4 A/F hex brass turn it down and cut a 3/4 BSPT thread ,drill and tap through to 14mm [just a plain adaptor 14mm x three quarter British Standard Pipe thread ] . Make the thread a little oversize ,screw it in with the hex head and you can try any of the much more available long reach spark plugs , not sure what heat range i am using but can let you know later.
Repairing the cracks .......grind out the crack where i can I go right through the wall of the water jacket ,just be careful and dont go too far. I use a thin cutting stone on my angle grinder . As i have done this a few times now i dont hold back ,if you grind out a nice space it is easier to fill it with epigen . I also try and undercut at least one side of my preparation by tilting the cutting stone . If you can stuff some Poly styrene down into the prepared space . This acts as a backing surface so you can trowll the epoxy down into it . If I have a wide space to fill ,ie 10mm or more I cut small pieces of " Termimesh '' fine stainless steel mesh , this act as a reinforcing bond when you force the epoxy into the space . To remove the Poly styrene from the space after has all cured just fill the water jacket with Petrol,this dissolves it . This epigen when it is cured is very hard and is difficult to machine .I use a flexi disc to prepare the surface for repainting . It is best left a few days to cure well .
What you want is Epigen 2008 made by Peerless Industrial Systems {WA] Pty Ltd .
22Claude St ,Burswood West Australia 6100
Tel 08 93623788
Fax 08 93622986
Ask for Beven
I must add I have no commercial connection to the firm ......just a satisfied user . Our US friends have a product .........can't think of the name for the moment but it's not available in Oz but i am sure it has the same results . |
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