| Author |
Message |
    
Greg Kipple
New member
Username: greg_kipple
Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2013
| | Posted on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 09:15 am: | 
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I saved one from the scrap man. It is complete. Where can I get info on rebuilding it.
Thank you |
John W Clough
Member
Username: cluffermon
Post Number: 16
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Friday, October 04, 2013 - 07:04 pm: |
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I can get you started with 38 page instruction book if you don't have one. It contains clearances, carb manual etc. (but no bolt torque reccomendations)
I pulled my WMG (magneto)[ The G is for gearbox] fisherman out today to run at a power show tomorrow. Oops no start-- no compression-- stuck valve.
Don't run it often enough!
It (was) easy to start and ran fine.
I don't have the right boat for it. My 18 foot power dory has a Palmer BH. |
Greg Kipple
New member
Username: greg_kipple
Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2013
| | Posted on Monday, October 07, 2013 - 06:57 am: |
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I would love an instruction book on this engine. How can get a copy? The engine is striped and I have been cleaning the hard packed mud in the water jacket. I am lucky it has not seen salt water. |
John W Clough
Member
Username: cluffermon
Post Number: 17
Registered: 08-2008
| | Posted on Monday, October 07, 2013 - 09:34 am: |
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E-mail me directly with your mailing address or phone number and I'll send you one this week.
[email protected] |
Neal Ward
New member
Username: wyoward
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Friday, May 20, 2016 - 09:11 pm: |
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I'm working on a Universal Fisherman for a boat I am restoring with some friends. It has good compression and I got the magneto rebuilt by a local guy that knows that stuff so it has good spark.
I finished rebuilding the carb and am casting one broken elbow in the water circulation system in bronze. What I am missing now is a fuel tank, a gear box and perhaps some pictures of how this should look when all set up and any literature available. I would sure appreciate any guidance. |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2284
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, May 21, 2016 - 06:50 am: |
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You can use the search function that is at the top.
There are some pics and quite a bit of information here on OME.
Hope this helps
Ernie |
Freddie
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2016 - 01:34 am: |
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I've got one, complete, that I'll likely be partng out as it has bad mains and con rod bearing. .015" on both mains, previous owner tried pouring the con rod and made a real poor job of it. If I could find a good set of mains I would rebuild it. Anyone with good bearings to sell or looking for anything but the gearbox message me.
Thx, |
Fred Logue
New member
Username: 49reo
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2016
| | Posted on Friday, December 02, 2016 - 08:53 pm: |
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I have for sale a Universal Fisherman one cylinder engine with Wico EK magneto. Engine is complete with trans, carb, mag, etc. Mag is hot, the only thing wrong with the engine is the oil dipper came off and starved the engine for oil which caused it to melt the Babbitt out of the con rod. My father owned this engine at the time, and hired someone to pour a new bearing, but it is not a good pour. The oil ring was also seized in the groove due to oil starvation and broke when taken out. Engine has compression, but needs the oil ring, the con rod bearing needs final fitting, and mains and con rod bearings need to be lockwired. Trans appears to be in very good condition. The only crack was on the water outlet fitting on top of the head, which has an old blazed repair. Pics to email, it won't let me post them here for some reason.
Thanks for looking. |
Coby Nettleton
New member
Username: cobyn
Post Number: 1
Registered: 10-2018
| | Posted on Friday, October 12, 2018 - 01:22 pm: |
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I have an old universal fisherman single cylinder engine that I am in the process of restoring and rebuilding. The valves, especially the exhaust value, are very corroded and pitted. The exhaust vale appears to have a slight bend when put in a lathe and spun. I am wondering if it is worth trying to find replacement values from some other similar engine or if I should rework what I have. Any advice or insight is appreciated!
Thank you. |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2492
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Friday, October 12, 2018 - 06:21 pm: |
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Coby,
That is the easiest way to solve your valve problem.
As long as the valve fits if won't matter where it came from.
You can cut the dia of the head to match what you need and the same with the stem length.
It is easiest to find a valve with the right stem diameter and work from there.
Just make sure it is NOT a sodium filled valve.
Hope this helps
Ernie |
Coby Nettleton
New member
Username: cobyn
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2018
| | Posted on Sunday, October 21, 2018 - 06:35 pm: |
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Ernie,
Thanks for your response. I have been doing some digging looking for a valve that would fit. I have not been able to find one with a long enough stem. The old valves are 7.2" long, .375" in diameter, and have 1.8" head diameters. If anyone has information on where I could find valves with similar dimensions it would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Coby |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2493
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Monday, October 22, 2018 - 06:38 am: |
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Try Hit and Miss Enterprises in Orwell,OH
They cater to the stationary end of our hobby but may have valves close to the size you need.
The best way it to call them.
http://www.hitnmiss.com/
Hope this helps
Ernie |
Coby Nettleton
New member
Username: cobyn
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2018
| | Posted on Monday, October 22, 2018 - 01:34 pm: |
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Ernie,
Thank you so much for your insight. I gave them a call and I am going to do some research. Do you know anything about the valve seals? I know there should be something to keep the oil from entering the intake or exhaust, but someone else unfortunately did the disassembly and I can't find any seal. Also do you know anything about the interface between the valve and the block? It looks like there may be an insert in the block that the valve slides inside of. I'm not sure if I should ream this, replace them, or leave them alone.
Thanks so much for your help,
Coby |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2494
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Monday, October 22, 2018 - 02:50 pm: |
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Coby,
No valve seals were used on these engines.
The valve guides are removable however I wouldn't try. Those heads crack easily. So leave them alone.
Hope this helps
Ernie |
Coby Nettleton
Member
Username: cobyn
Post Number: 4
Registered: 10-2018
| | Posted on Monday, October 22, 2018 - 08:10 pm: |
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Ernie,
Ah. There is a single CAM below everything so no oil seal is needed unlike in a V8 (my experience is with cars). I am going to ream the guides and have Hit and Miss make valves for me. I am also tracking this project here if you'd like to check it out:
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?197007-Universal-Fisherman-One-Lunger -Project/page4
Thanks again for all of your help,
Coby |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2495
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2018 - 07:19 am: |
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Coby,
Before you spend a money on it make sure you have a good water jacket. Bottom line was it used in salt water? If so be very careful as the water jacket on the cylinder and the head itself may not be much good. Other than that you should be in good shape as all the internal parts are Model T or A Ford.
Hope this helps
Ernie |
