|
| Author |
Message |
    
Nick Champion
New member
Username: nickchamp
Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, August 17, 2006 - 07:33 pm: | 
|
I am currently overhauling a P66 which has about an inch of gunge across the bottom of the cooling water gallery in the cylinder water jacket. My question is what is the best way to clear this out when access is only through the small water jacket plate?
Also does anyone know where to source a new thermostat? |
Ben Tuppen
Member
Username: bentuppen
Post Number: 13
Registered: 07-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 22, 2006 - 05:17 pm: |
|
hiya. i had a similar problem with the r3m that I've been doing up. I managed to eventually clear it using some pokey bits of wire, and warm water to gradually scrape through a hole to get the water running again. I then kept scraping and running water through the ports either forwards or backwards until it cleared. Took a few evenings but did eventually do the trick. Finally I blew out the block with compressed air, which got the last few crusty bits of limescale out. I've heard some people recommend using limescale remover and other warn against it as it rots the cast iron. For me, it wasn't necessary if you're happy to spend a bit of time. |
Tim Mulvey
Senior Member
Username: timmulvey
Post Number: 96
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 23, 2006 - 05:12 am: |
|
Whatever you do keep water in the block 1. as it will keep the gunge soft, and 2. rust inside water jacket will expand and cause splitting.
You can drill the 2 or 3 water channels in the very bottom gallery that runs from the expansion chamber cover plate into the main water jacket area between the respective cylinder bores. Next use a sharpened long shaft screwdriver or similar items to chip away the gunge in the bottom of that main water jacket area but be very carful not to pentrate or bend the brass sleeves that allow the heads studs access thru the block to the crankcase. You can gently pry rust away from between the brass tubes and the outside of the cylinder walls. Also, use a very long screw driver or similar item to access down into the block to clear rust from belund the brass lenses or welch plugs that seal the casting ....(what is it??) holes (??). Also, stick the same item down all the water access holes thru the top of the cylinder face and use a bent or curved thick wire to access all other areas not already mentioned. Keep whole cylinder in a drum of water until whole task finished. You could also soak in it the famous molasses rust removal but be careful as leaving in in for too many weeks will cause the surface of the cast inrom to soften. Do a search on this site or web for more about the molasses rust removal technique. Good luck |
|
|
|
|
