| Author |
Message |
    
Paul Berry
New member
Username: graylag
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Monday, July 17, 2006 - 01:26 pm: | 
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Could anyone post some suggestions for getting my pump up and running again - water reaches the pump, and if the engine drain plug is taken out and a hose with water squirted in, water exits the side of my boat, ie flows around the head etc.
The old manual doesnt appear to help, and the PBO 'two stroke tune up' doesnt help either.
I would rather not remove the flywheel to access the pump just yet and wondered if there were any 'tricks' which might help her along. This engine, about 1936, was professionally reconditioned about two years ago and replaces the boats original 1938 one.
Can the pump be easily dismantled and reassembled without specialist gear?
Thanks
Paul |
Peter Ogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 156
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Monday, July 17, 2006 - 07:04 pm: |
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Paul...there are two simple valves on the water pump . These are non return valves . To access them undo the hex nuts at the top of the pump. You may find that the valves have tilted or are stuck and not seating. In some instances a compression spring can be fitted but it is not realy necessary. It is a very simple pump and most reliable.....I am sure you will find it is the valves that are the cause of your trouble. |
Tim Mulvey
Senior Member
Username: timmulvey
Post Number: 93
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 18, 2006 - 05:08 am: |
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I have reconditioned a number of pumps. As Peter suggests it is more likely a stuck valve. However the is a remote possibility that it is a blockage.
The pumps comprise a rear cast iron section with a bronze section carrying the working gear bolted on the front. The cast iron section at rear has an internal dog leg shaped water passage. When the cast iron and bronze sections are fixed together they don't always align properly.
On one pump that I reconditioned there was an acummulation of rust that blocked the water passage at the junction of the cast iron and bronze sections. If left for any length of time it can set like cement.
In case this has happened with your engine just disconnect the inlet hose and bend a piece of coat hanger wire so that it can work its way around the passage and clear any possible blockage. |
Paul Berry
New member
Username: graylag
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 18, 2006 - 07:18 am: |
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Hi Peter and Tim, thanks for your helpful suggestions - I will try them out and report back.
In my years of owning and running a Stuart I've never had a pump fail on me - although the inlet filter might have needed attention.
This engine's number is 11A170 - I recall working out an approximate date from some earlier posts, but would appreciate a second opinion.
She was one of the last, if not the last engine to be reconditioned by Stan Flowers of faversham. She replaced the boats original and previous P5, no reverse, which worked to the end (sad) when I failed to tighten the flywheel properly before running the engine and damaging the crank shaft - this 'new engine' was the cheaper option.
Many Thanks
Paul |
Paul Berry
New member
Username: graylag
Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Monday, July 24, 2006 - 06:49 am: |
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Hi, removed the two nuts on the top of the water pump and found under one of them that the rod was all gunked up with white stuff. Once this was cleaned off, I passed clean water through the pump.
The engine then ran fine with a good flow of water passing through the engine.
Was then able to motor out the creek and have a fine, but hot, sail over the weekend.
Many thanks for your posts
Paul |
Peter Ogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 159
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Monday, July 24, 2006 - 07:22 am: |
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Thats OK Paul ...thats what this site is all about. |
