| Author |
Message |
    
dondom
New member
Username: dondom
Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2005 - 03:24 pm: | 
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ok here goes, engine no 21649 switchboard no 23670 anyone out there can date this set? I bought it as 2 big bits and a box of small bits i think it is all there but could use more info so i can buy a manual to put it all together again the guy i bought it of split the engine and generator to paint it but he has also removed the mag and timing chain so i could do with some help on how to set up the timing etc thanks in advance. |
dondom
New member
Username: dondom
Post Number: 2
Registered: 03-2005
| | Posted on Monday, March 28, 2005 - 01:20 pm: |
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more info on st lighting set its a p55 engine and a bkb generator and i dont think it has the correct mag what mag should it have?
i have no knowlage on these engines but i would like to see it running again
thanks |
timmulvey
Senior Member
Username: timmulvey
Post Number: 142
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2005 - 06:28 am: |
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Engine no. 21649 was manufactured about WWII. It falls within the engine no. range 20,000-22,185 that were manfactured between Oct 1935 and Nov 1943. It is reasonable to assume that more engines were manfactured during the war, but if you conatct Fairways Marine they can be more specific - for a small fee or free info if you buy some parts.
Generally I have seen either a Lucas SR1 or Wico Series A magnetos used but that is not to say others have been used or can be used.
I've also got a genset. You can get original paint from Fairways. Manual is easy to obtain. Try Thames Vintage Boat Club website - small fee to the Club or try Fairways or download from the web - search on "Stuart manual" as a start. |
NickH
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 29, 2005 - 07:07 am: |
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Manual for marine version states that flywheel should be marked "M" for the firing point just under 2 inches from "TDC" mark |
dondom
New member
Username: dondom
Post Number: 3
Registered: 03-2005
| | Posted on Monday, April 04, 2005 - 04:00 pm: |
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Next question I am told that the p55 requires a mag. ok which one bkb2? lucas sr2? or wico series a
confused TOM |
peterogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 240
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 05, 2005 - 07:44 am: |
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Hang on to your Lucas SR1 magneto's . They are standard equipment on a lot of vintage motor cycles ...i have been asked several times if i would sell the ones on my S/T engines when i have them at shows. |
Tom Sanders
Member
Username: tom1800_1
Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2007
| | Posted on Monday, May 12, 2008 - 04:48 pm: |
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I have A lucas SR2 mag. and have no spark, I changed it for A wipac series A And still have no spark. Is there A way to test these, ie. when they are spun by hand should i be able to get A spark. I am new to A magneto ignition.Any help would be appretiated.
Thanks Tom. |
Todd Vidgen
Advanced Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 32
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 12, 2008 - 05:56 pm: |
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first remove the cap and make sure all internal parts are clean,free from moisture and dirt etc.
Check that the points are opening and clean
With an adaptor on the end of a cordless drill to
fit a 3/8 drive socket ,fit a 5/8 socket onto the
drive end of the magneto.With the maggy in a vice
and the cap still off,rotate the drive with the drill whilst holding a screw driver against the
outer casing(cleaned of paint etc,for good earth)
and holding the tip just off the metal button
in the center of the coil winding,If the maggy
is any good you should be able to get a spark
that will cross a 5/16>3/8 gap in either direction
of rotation.But sometime maggys have been set so
they only spark in one direction, as with some wicos (Clae engines run ccw,Simplexes cw)
Assuming you get a spark,refit the cap and lead assy,and repeat the process using the end of the
lead to generate the spart between it and the maggy casing.
If you have no spark at this stage the fault may
be. 1 a cracked cap(if its plastic or bakerlite)
2 Tracking in the cap (burnt looking lines)
3 Faulty lead
4 Poor insulation around lead mounting (metal cap)
IF you had no luck in the first instance(cap off test) its probably a coil or condensor problem
You can eliminate the condensor by removing it and
jury rigging another,if you get spark you have found your problem if no spark its the coil.
This is assuming you have magnetic pull when you rotate the maggy and the various wires from the
coil ,points ,condensor ,kill switch etc are in
good nick and not shorting out |
