| Author |
Message |
    
robert dunstone
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, January 20, 2005 - 05:35 pm: | 
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Thanks for the answers to my last questions, can someone help me with these queries.
1. What is the approximate age of a P55MR Engine No.21B559.
2. I'm confused over where I should repack the water pump. Does the packing go into the large cylinder by removing the funny shape nut at the bottom or into the gap at the top of the valve underneith the notched bolt and why is it so noisy?
3. What is the points gap for a WIPAC magneto.
4. I can't find any low tension wires around the magneto for an ignition switch, what can I do? There are two brass tabs on each side of the magneto that should short out the magneto when they are pressed but don't.
5. What is the paint code for the S/T engine, mine is painted a light green blue gunmetal is this the original colour?
6. Where is the drain plug for the gear box I can only find a filler hex cap bolt on the topside?
7. The spark plugs leak around their gaskets because of the poor machining and rough casting, how I can fix this?
Thanks Todd |
timmulvey
Senior Member
Username: timmulvey
Post Number: 131
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2005 - 04:21 am: |
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1. Approximate manufacture date age of your P55MR Engine No.21B559 is 1966.
2. To remove the "funny shaped nut" ie pump gland nut inside the banjo suffiencely to repack it rotate the flywheel until the pump plunger that is located thru the centre of the pump gland nut is at the bottom of its stroke. This will allow you to unscrew and slide the nut down the plunger so you can replace the packing on the indie if the nut. It shouldn't be noisy if it is greased at all points. Check bearing.
3. What is the points gap for a WIPAC magneto (or Lucas) is 0.012 to 0.015 inches (0.3 to 0.4mm) - per manual
4. I prwsume you have a dynastart. If so let me know and I'll send you an article on its wiring.
5. Re paint code for the S/T engine - There is a Stuart green that is available from Fairways Marine. Let me know about the code if you find out.
6. Oil drain plug for the gear box can be on either side of the bottm side of the gearbox depending on the gearbox version.
7. Re spark plugs leak around their gaskets because of the poor machining and rough casting. Though I'm not a mechanic just use a grinding stone on a variable speed drill while the head is off the engine so you can clean if well afterwards. |
robert dunstone
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2005 - 07:09 am: |
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Dear Tim,
Thanks for your reply. I'm situated in Mount Gambier, South Australia. The Stuart motor and the discussion board is all new to me and I don't know of any other Stuart motors around this area so any help you can give me is greatly appreciated.
1. About the water pump, I have not dimantled the pump apart from removing the two valves to fill the pump with water and bleed the air. Do the valves require any packing? I don't quite understand "...replace the packing on indie if the nut." What is the best material to use for packing and how much should there be. What bearing should I check and how do I access it? I have tried filling the upper part of the pump with marine grease (through the grease nipple)and flushed the old mixture of grease and brass dust but the pump is still sloppy where it connects to the non-moving pump body, can I take out this slop with a brass shim. I know this sounds pedantic about noise but the water pump is louder than the exhaust noise it frightens the fish away and doesn't sound healthy.
2. The motor does not have a dynastart can one be retro fitted before I get arms like Popeye? Or can one be homemade with an electric motor etc.? I can't find a low tension wire to fit an ignition switch, to kill the motor I remove the plug leads quickly and gingerly with a screwdriver but I'm worried this might eventually short out the distributor cap? Do you have any ideas?
3. I would like to repaint the motor eventually. My paint shop can mix an enamel to match the light green blue metal flake but I don't know if this was the original colour, other S/T motors I have seen on the net are bottle green. Do you know if the factory changed the colour over time? I feel that importing paint from the U.K. would be too expensive.
Thanks Todd |
timmulvey
Senior Member
Username: timmulvey
Post Number: 132
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, January 22, 2005 - 06:22 pm: |
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Todd - My apologies re the typos in my explanation about repacking the pump. As you are in Australia if you send me your daytime telephone number I'll phone you next week so we can discuss your problems first hand. Click on my user name in the margin of this posting to send me your contact details.
PS: There are a couple of guys in South Australia with Stuarts with at least one or two in Adelaide. |
peterogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 227
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, January 23, 2005 - 06:29 am: |
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Todd..........Tim Mulvey will give you some good info . From the sound of it you may have a bearing problem on your water pump. By this i mean the small ball bearing on the crank. This is most unusual but then perhaps water has got to it and it has corroded. The only other cause of the noise would be undue wear and this will require you to remove the pump and check it [a minor job].There is no packing in the valves, sometimes they can be spring assisted . Are you sure the noise that is annoying you is not valve noise?.Packing for the pump piston.........undo the nut with the slots around the circumference. Use a piece of brass and a hammer[ it is most unlikely that you will have the correct size "C " spanner.The best packing to use is greasy hemp . There is a Teflon material available in string form .It is ok but remember you dont want a water tight gland . Pull the nut back to enable a couple of turns around the piston and then push this into the recessed cylinder and retighten the nut . Do not over tighten the nut. It is preferable to have a slight leak , this helps lubricate the pump piston . The pump is very reliable and it will be interesting to hear of your success |
peterogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 228
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, January 23, 2005 - 06:41 am: |
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Todd if the sealing of the spark plugs is very bad then you spot face the recess. If you dont have the resources to do this then a M/c shop can do it for you . Other wise use a good copper washer on your spark plug.
It should be straight forward to short the magneto out . The two tabs on the Wico magneto are for this purpose. I can only think that they have been assembled incorrectly. There are two fibre washers and a fibre sleeve . A screw holds this assembly together. The "Tab" when pressed earths the magneto.It is not rocket science ,just look at it carefully and you will see how it functions. |
M.R.Harrison
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, January 28, 2005 - 04:14 pm: |
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Todd. Re your P55. I have an original, old and rather oil stained wiring diagram for your P55, together with the original Stuart instruction book. I will gladly photocopy these and sent to you via snail mail (post) if you would like them. You will need o sendme via email your postal address. Australia?? Michael |
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