| Author |
Message |
    
Ollie webb
New member
Username: stuartr2
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2012
| | Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2012 - 01:26 pm: | 
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I have just joined this forum in the hope that I will be able to resurrect the old Stuart turner R2 engine I have recently acquired. Firstly does anyone have a manual or any drawings that may be of use? Second, the carburettor jet has been bodged and as a consequence is now bent, I have managed to remove the soldering holding it on and straighten it out. I need to know the length from the base of the jet to the tip. If anyone could help it would be most appreciated.
Many thanks Ollie |
Tim Everson
New member
Username: timeverson5
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2012
| | Posted on Monday, December 17, 2012 - 03:38 pm: |
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I recently aquired a boat with a P55. It is hand start and fires first swing. After motoring for approx 20min it starts burning oil. The water cooling system is OK and it doesn't seem to be over heating. I have drained oil from sump but problem persists. I noticed that gearbox oil very low after running engine and have to keep it topped up. Could the gearbox oil be being drawn into the combustion chamber? How can I cure this problem? All suggestions gratefully received!Thanks, Tim |
steven john page
Senior Member
Username: fairbanks
Post Number: 103
Registered: 12-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 03:42 am: |
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Hi Tim, it sounds like the engines rear crankshaft seal is worn and needs replacing. regards steve |
Tim Everson
New member
Username: timeverson5
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2012
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 04:21 am: |
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Hi Steve
Thanks for your reply. Will I have to take engine apart to replace rear crankshaft seal or just remove the gear box? Where can I get a replacement seal? Tim |
steven john page
Senior Member
Username: fairbanks
Post Number: 104
Registered: 12-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 07:36 am: |
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Hi Tim,unfortunately you will need to remove the gearbox ,then the forward cone , next the rear engine cover which holds the rear crankshaft bearing, then the magneto sprocket and drive chain followed by the water pump drive gear, when you have got this far there will be a couple of keys that need to be removed from the shaft . after this you should be able to see the shaft ,if it is a rubber type you will be able to remove it with a seal remover and replace it carefully with a tubular drifter . if it is the metal seal type with small piston ring type seals x2 off then it will involve removing the rear section of the crank case which in turn involves removing the cylinders and the head to knock the seal out with a wooden drifter and hammer. which ever course you take you must make sure that when you you remove each part you lay it out in sequence as it will need to be replaced in reverse order. this job should not be undertaken lightly as it will in some cases involve a partial strip down of your engine,not a job for the faint hearted, i hope i havent depressed you to much, keep in touch regards steve. |
Tim Everson
New member
Username: timeverson5
Post Number: 3
Registered: 12-2012
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 11:58 am: |
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OMG....thanks Steve for your detailed description of the procedure...this sounds like a job for an experienced engineer... or myself with a bottle of brandy to hand! If it is the metal seal type are replacements available or does one have to have them made up? Tim |
steven john page
Senior Member
Username: fairbanks
Post Number: 105
Registered: 12-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 06:30 pm: |
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Hi Tim, if your p55 has the early type ring seals i personaly would replace them with the rubber seals.measure the ID where the seal was situated inside the crank case and the OD of the sleeve which passes through the old seal and over the crank shaft. with these measurements you can surf the web and find an auto bearing and seal supplier such as bearing service ltd and select the seals that match, dont forget to purchase the seals that have spring coils around the inner lip of the seal these promote a better long lasting seal on the sleeve. if you need any more info or assistance dont hesitate to contact me. regards steve |
Tim Everson
Member
Username: timeverson5
Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2012
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2012 - 04:10 am: |
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Many thanks for your advice Steve! Tim |
Marry leva
New member
Username: marry_leva
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2013
| | Posted on Friday, May 17, 2013 - 01:52 am: |
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While looking for marine engine it is much easier to find one with online site that offer better engine parts and deals with reliable offer that can check easily with online user review.
Such I have done for my Chevy engine replacement about a year ago with http://www.hiperformer.com/engines/chevy-marine_boat.html page, where I got my entire engine with cheaper price deal.
You can check them or other online dealer like eBay or MarinEngine dealer page. |
rovaman2000
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, July 28, 2013 - 07:26 pm: |
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Hi all
Can any Stuart Turner buffs help me with a crankshaft problem i'm having with an R2 crankshaft.
The crank has a worn big end and i cannot separate the flywheels! I have even resorted to heat on the hexagon nuts,but nothing moves, what am I doing wrong.
I assume the nuts do undo and allow the flywheels to split? but 'by eck' they are tight.
Am i to continue on and if needed replace the nuts, and then if so where do I obtain them and are needle rollers available for the big end.
Realigning the crank is no problem as I have pressed and aligned many other cranks but not wanting to damage anything beyond repair, i'm seeking advise.
Secondly I would like to adapt the engine to pumped coolant, I have a pump from an R3, but is there a skew gear from an R3 a direct fit to my crankshaft to drive the pump?.
Finally,I have had the crank in bits for some time now and I have lost the positioning of some of the shims/spacers on either side of the crankshaft so could someone send me a picture of a complete crankshaft fully assembled,or even a sketch would be fine.
Thank you all for your help,and I hope someone can provide the information to allow me to get this lovely engine running again.
Cheers
John |
rovaman
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, July 28, 2013 - 07:32 pm: |
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Hi all
Can any Stuart Turner buffs help me with a crankshaft problem i'm having with an R2 crankshaft.
The crank has a worn big end and i cannot separate the flywheels! I have even resorted to heat on the hexagon nuts,but nothing moves, what am I doing wrong.
I assume the nuts do undo and allow the flywheels to split? but 'by eck' they are tight.
Am i to continue on and if needed replace the nuts, and then if so where do I obtain them and are needle rollers available for the big end.
Realigning the crank is no problem as I have pressed and aligned many other cranks but not wanting to damage anything beyond repair, i'm seeking advise.
Secondly I would like to adapt the engine to pumped coolant, I have a pump from an R3, but is there a skew gear from an R3 a direct fit to my crankshaft to drive the pump?.
Finally,I have had the crank in bits for some time now and I have lost the positioning of some of the shims/spacers on either side of the crankshaft so could someone send me a picture of a complete crankshaft fully assembled,or even a sketch would be fine.
Thank you all for your help,and I hope someone can provide the information to allow me to get this lovely engine running again.
Cheers
John |
