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The Rubytoo"s p55 seizes

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Matthew Balkwell
Senior Member
Username: matt

Post Number: 137
Registered: 04-2006
Posted on Friday, September 23, 2011 - 12:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Had to get towed back to the ramp on our way back today.
Had the engine running well for our trip out to Towra[ over an hour]on Botany bay but on the way back the engine struggled to rev and died.
On trying to start her again i noticed the flywheel was hard to turn on waiting about fifteen minutes she started again and went for about 5 minutes before the same thing happened , we hitched a tow back to the ramp.
On getting the RubyToo home i made the following observations.
1, spark plugs where a white to light brown colour with absolutely no soot or oil on them.
2,Hardly any fuel and oil mixture came out of the sump drains, and what did come out was very thick and guey rather than the thin oil and petrol mixture.
3,there was no petrol in the carby drip tray, after a trip like today there would normally be at least a table spoon or more.
4, i had three kids on board who all sat up front changing the normal level of the boat.
After getting the boat home and washing her out i managed to get the engine started and ran it for fifteen minutes with out a problem.
Any ideas anyone?
Regards Matt and Ron.
Ps plugs are Champion L86C,
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David Stott
Advanced Member
Username: david_stott

Post Number: 41
Registered: 06-2005
Posted on Tuesday, September 27, 2011 - 12:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Matt, The float level is critical if you use the brass solex carby. I have found something similar on Penguin, when loaded bow down. My engine did not seize, but it did stall. Bow down would probably mean running lean due to a low float level. If running lean then your engine would have been starving for oil as well. Now I always try to balance the passengers to provide the usual attitude.
David Stott
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Matthew Balkwell
Senior Member
Username: matt

Post Number: 139
Registered: 04-2006
Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2011 - 03:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

David, this morning i went to solve the problem with our engine, i opened the crank case drains and water poured out of the no 1 cylinder.
I then disconnected the water inlet and blew into the pipe and i could feel air coming out of the spark plug hole, at this stage i thought it was either a failed head gasket, cracked head or burst cylinder wall.
After calming down i began to take the head off, all looked ok cylinder was fine head looked good, gasket was sound, but what amazed me was the ease it took to get the head off once the nuts were off , with two small taps with a small hammer and timber pad off it came.
I am of the opinion that the extra heat has caused expansion in the engine to the extent that the head has come off the gasket causing the water to come into the no1 cylinder.
I am giving the block and head a good clean out before putting her back together again and we will go from there,
Regards Matt and Ron
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Laurie Derwent
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d

Post Number: 112
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2011 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Matthew, I suggest you look very carfully for any cracks in the head too. There is a very good engineer close to Oatley who can often assist with such matters. Keep me posted.
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Matthew Balkwell
Senior Member
Username: matt

Post Number: 140
Registered: 04-2006
Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 - 12:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Aghhhh, put the head back on , she started up ok but more water in the crankcases, i noticed quite a bit of oil around the block where it meets the crankcases so i did not have her tightened up enough.
I went to give all the studs a nip up and one of the studs that just go in to the block, broke.
After calming down i resolved to leave things as they are and do some work on her next weekend, Laurie this engineer you know, would he be able to make up some 3/8 BSF studs?
Also does anyone know the correct torque settings for securing the head and block?
Regards Matt and Ron.
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Matthew Balkwell
Senior Member
Username: matt

Post Number: 143
Registered: 04-2006
Posted on Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That was six weeks ago, i finally found the time to have another look at it today.
I went to move the flywheel and lo and behold frozen solid,i then removed the head to find the no1 piston at tdc with some slight rust on the inside of head and around the top of the piston.
I then put some oil around the bore of both pistons and left it for a while, the flywheel had some movement, about 5mm in height of piston travel but thats about it the flywheel would only move the 5mm back and forth it seems strange that it comes to a distinct halt after moving this small amount, i put a bit more oil around the bores and covered her up.
Does anyone have any ideas before i think about taking the block off?
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Laurie Derwent
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d

Post Number: 117
Registered: 10-2009
Posted on Sunday, January 08, 2012 - 05:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Matt, Sorry to hear of the Rubytoo blues and apologies for the delay in this reSponse (I've been on hols away from my pc). I've been looking for a phone number for my engineer friend at Mortdale without success. I'm sure he could help you but would probably require the motor to go to him) Feel free to call me on 0419185380. Regards Laurie.

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