| Author |
Message |
    
Ben Tuppen
New member
Username: bentuppen
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2006 - 06:27 pm: | 
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Hiya. Big thanks to Tim for the manuals he sent through for my R3M. A bit further down the track I've had her running (scared the life out of my neighbour who thought I'd electocuted myself - I had no silencer and was running the exhaust through a plastic hosepipe).
I'm hoping to paint the engine up as it's currently extremely rusted and almost lacking in paint externally. Firstly, can anyone recommend the right paint colour and a good manufacturer who makes marine engine paint?
Secondly, are there any tips for repainting the engine. I was going to see if I could remove the flywheel and water pump and possibly the carb then just sand down the outside a little to remove excess rust, paint on some metal primer then paint on the outer coat of stuart green!
Any thoughts much appreciated.
best wishes
Ben |
Mathijs Vorstman
Member
Username: devorst
Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2005
| | Posted on Friday, February 03, 2006 - 04:04 pm: |
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Hi Ben,
Thanx for your mail. And for the manual.
About the paint: check www.fairwaymarine.com They now own Stuart turner. Or at least they know a lot about them. In a booklet a have it says Stuart Green Enamel - tin 250 ml. (nr 00285) I think you can order it with them.
Cheers,
Mathijs |
Peter Ogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 288
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, February 05, 2006 - 04:16 am: |
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Ben ........go for any colour that pleases you. I have a blue P55 and it looks great with the contrasting brass bits. I use a single pack epoxy . It has a rust inhibitor and dries with a nice hard coat. |
Ben Tuppen
Member
Username: bentuppen
Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2005
| | Posted on Monday, February 06, 2006 - 06:12 pm: |
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OK thanks for the tips guys. I'll have a look for single pack epoxies next time i'm in town (and in the mean time my girlfriend's enjoying getting the brasso out on the shiny bits whilst i get the steel wool onto the rusty bits!)
Ben |
Hans Poutsma
Member
Username: hansp77
Post Number: 6
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 02:58 am: |
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Hello Peter,
With your single pack epoxy paint, do you prime it first, or does the rust inhibitor mean you don't have to. Could or should I prime mine with a rust inhibitor underneath?
Also, where do you get your paint from- marine supplies or somewhere else?
I thought epoxy products all had to be two packs?
Silly me.
Also, does the heat not affect the epoxy paint like it affects epoxy, ie sort of melting it?
Thanks, Hans. |
Peter Ogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 143
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, June 15, 2006 - 08:31 pm: |
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Hans ,we use an epoxy paint ,single pack Wattlyl Killrust . It is an Australian brand but I am sure you could get one like it in Holland.I also put a base coat on first and I use a red oxide zinc primer . It gives a nice surface for the Kill Rust Paint ....temperature is no problem . Of course you can go for the two pack epoxy and lots of rubbing down with wet and dry paper to give you that super finish |
Hans Poutsma
Member
Username: hansp77
Post Number: 7
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Friday, June 16, 2006 - 08:29 am: |
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Hahha.
Thanks Peter,
Despite the name (and by the way you guesed right origin-wise) I do actually live in Australia too. Born and bred.
So wattle killrust I know,
but what brand is, and where do I get the red oxide zinc primer?
Is this all available from a big paint shop like paintspot or something?
Thanks again,
Hans. |
Peter Ogborne
Senior Member
Username: peterogborne
Post Number: 144
Registered: 09-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, June 17, 2006 - 07:56 pm: |
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Embarrasing for me ......sorry Mate!
Hans ,I just use Wattyle Metal Primer ,red oxide. To be specific I get it at Bunnings but I am sure you will get it at any good paint shop where you are. |
Hans Poutsma
Member
Username: hansp77
Post Number: 8
Registered: 04-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, June 18, 2006 - 11:52 am: |
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Thanks Peter,
no problem about the name,
with a name like mine, believe me, I am used to it.
Most people assume German heritage, so at lest you got that right!
Thanks, Hans. |
David Benyon
New member
Username: davey1000
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2010
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 06, 2011 - 02:23 pm: |
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If your engine is raw water cooled it will be the INSIDE that rusts the most especially if the engine is used in sea water. A British Seagull can handle a bit of rust but it would be nice to find a permanent cure. Many small diesels are raw water cooled but all they have to protect them is a bit of zinc. |
David Myers
Senior Member
Username: dave_myers
Post Number: 110
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 06, 2011 - 09:23 pm: |
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David, Use a product named Salt-X to protect the water jackets that are raw water cooled. It neutralizes the Salt and puts a coating inside the water galleries. Just flush the cooling system out after each use with fresh water. After flushing we fill the cooling system with a cheap coolant/inhibitor and seal the inlet and outlets as well, (No Air = No Rust). Below is their main site but have agents all over the Globe.
http://www.saltx.com/ Trust this is of use.
Cheers,
Dave |
Paul Vecovsky
Member
Username: paulvec
Post Number: 21
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Saturday, September 10, 2011 - 08:01 am: |
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have to say this! wattlyl epoxy enamel is crap! wouldn't put it anywhere near a boat let alone an engine! Por 15 engine enamel [available worldwide] is the best product in a arrange of colours, its expensive but you pay for quality! do it once do it right! |
