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matt harrington
Member Username: matth
Post Number: 6 Registered: 01-2008
| Posted on Saturday, February 09, 2008 - 01:54 pm: |
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i promise this is my last post for a bit as i am beginning to take over the forum! i have heard all the stuff about a sliencer being 3ft away from the engine, on the bathtub of a boat i have been lumbered with, the p55 has no silencer at all, and the exhaust ( a piece of copper pipe!) goes out about 3ft to an elbow, where it runs 10ft length to the stern, how should it be, i assume this exhaust systerm is a load of home-spun crap (like the boat) |
Jon Lewis
Member Username: spinning_props
Post Number: 8 Registered: 05-2007
| Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 11:47 am: |
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Hello Matt. You're correct that Stuart advise a 3' length of pipe from the exhaust manifold to the silencer - describing this as a 'tuned length'. I've played with a couple of P55s and other STs and, if I'm honest, I couldn't tell the difference that a longer or shorter incoming pipe made. I have, however, found that the length of pipe AFTER the silence (1" bore I think) does have an effect. A longer tail-pipe is better than a short one for reducing residual 'bark'. I have seen some ST exhausts on eBay recently. I believe you may be able to get them from Fairways Marine (the only ST stockists). People knock Fairways for the high price of their components - but, let's be honest, we are dealing with museum pieces here. I see you've also asked questions about the throttle and painting your engine. Right, here goes... The lever under the g/box handle IS the throttle. STs do not have clutch levers (the 'clutch', such as it is, is a metal cone that houses the workings of the gear-box). A word of advice on this: DON'T control power to the prop by 'half engaging' drive. Always put the gear lever right home and use the throttle to control your speed. If you 'ride the clutch', you will wear it out and repair is expensive. The throttle should be connected to the carb by a series of small diameter connecting rods, with a pivot point on the engine block itself having a clever cam arrangement that allows you to open the throttle without putting the engine in gear (you should notice the throttle lever itself is 'jammed shut' when in neutral. Finally: painting. I'm sure everyone does it differently. You can buy ST green paint (enamel) from Fairways. I've always found car spray paint to give a good finish and I tend to paint individual components prior to assembly. Halfords do a paint for Vauxhalls which is very similar to the Brunswick Green used by ST. Of course, the choice of colour is up to you. Good luck! |
matt harrington
Member Username: matth
Post Number: 8 Registered: 01-2008
| Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 02:07 pm: |
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so unless i have dont understand, you cant rev AT ALL in neutral, how do you get on for starting? (you will see i chose the most flummoxed smily face there) |
Jon Lewis
Member Username: spinning_props
Post Number: 10 Registered: 05-2007
| Posted on Tuesday, February 12, 2008 - 08:34 am: |
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Matt, Not quite!..... Revs are shut off in neutral to prevent over-speed so, as you come out of gear, the throttle is pushed shut. On the block of the engine itself, you should see a brass cam with the word 'START' on it and an arrow, this cam can be rotated - there is an arm projecting off it rising at 45 degrees. If you stand aft of the gearbox and rotate the cam, it pushes the section of throttle linkage that runs parallel to the block ever so slightly towards you. This small distance is magnified by the linkage and is plenty enough to open the throttle to give FULL REVS (if not more if you're not careful) in neutral. By ST standards, the cam and handle are a little flimsy (but this is ST we're talking about) and I've had engines where it's been removed / broken / perished. You will find that you can override the throttle by just pushing it open at the carb..... although this IS easier said than done when hand-starting a P55. |
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