| Author |
Message |
    
heygus
New member
Username: heygus
Post Number: 3
Registered: 09-2004
| | Posted on Friday, September 17, 2004 - 12:45 pm: | 
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Does anyone have any drawings or detailed pictures of an acadia marine engine, any size. I have heard that there is a club or group of Acadia owners in the Halifax NS area. Some info would be great.
Thanks |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 301
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, September 19, 2004 - 10:30 pm: |
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Stan Gryson's book Old Marine Engines is very well done in regard to Arcadia. Try Devereux Books, PO Box 503 Marblehead, MA 01945. His e-mail is [email protected] |
andrew
Moderator
Username: andrew
Post Number: 910
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2004 - 08:50 am: |
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Have you tried inquiring at the maritime musuem in Halifax?
I know they have a sizable collection of marine engines and are probably familiar with the local collectors. |
ed redmond
New member
Username: redline
Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2010
| | Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2010 - 09:31 am: |
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hi everybody, new guy on the block. i have a 4 acadia, installed but not run up. i have many coils, presumably for 6 volt. any help with the set up is great. do i need a 6 volt wet cell batt? can i use a 12 volt marine battery? if so i presume i would need to step down the voltage before the coil. i was hoping to have a small solar panel to keep 12 v charged, and use it to run eg small bailing /bilge pump and or radio. also any help on the timing issue, how to adjust
thnx
ed |
R BruceGrant
Member
Username: puttputtputt
Post Number: 7
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2010 - 01:24 pm: |
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For Ed Redmond
Go ahead and use a 12 volt battery, no problem. |
ed redmond
New member
Username: redline
Post Number: 2
Registered: 06-2010
| | Posted on Monday, June 28, 2010 - 05:33 am: |
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i used a 6 volt dry cell battery, votlage 6 at the batterry, 640 or so at the motor. however, just a small spark if i drag the wire across the bare metal. could not get the engine to fire, ..so have gas, 40-1, have spark, any suggestions? are there points to clean? as well, i turned the motor through a cycle, and the spring that holds the hot wire now completes a circuit..i e a small spark. so presumably it is opening the circuit. as well, what is the method for turning the flywheel. i have been using my foot flat on the top, but it rarely gets beyond a single cycle.
ed |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 1216
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Monday, June 28, 2010 - 11:42 am: |
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For a really hot arc note it is an arc and not a spark use the rotor from a car alternator just solder a wire to each of the slip rings and a 12 volt battery. You will get a huge arc at quite a low amperage which is good for the life of the ignitor points.
With the ignitor points closed you should have less than .5 ohm of resistance.
On your Acadia you can hold the points closed and move the ignitor shaft in and out to clean the points. This will work most of the time. The shaft should be spring loaded in towards the cylinder and have a maximum 1/8 in of movement
Hope this helps
Ernie |
John Archibald
Senior Member
Username: john_archibald
Post Number: 142
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Monday, June 28, 2010 - 11:59 am: |
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Ernie,
What about precautions having to do with the mica sleeve on the ignitor? Should he check it for leaks to ground, etc?
Archibald
Northfield, Minnesota
. |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 1217
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Monday, June 28, 2010 - 01:54 pm: |
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To check the mica I use 600vac from an old transformer of some sort that I don't know where it came from. From the insulated contact to ground there should be no leakage. You should be able to touch the insulated contact with one lead and go to ground with the other and NOT have any spark or arc anywhere. Just don't touch them together or grab both of them. It isn't very often that I find one that leaks. A plain old ohm meter will find a short but not a voltage leak. From what I did with one using an ociliscope the peak voltage when the points break is around 400. Leakage is usually at the combustion chamber side and is caused by carbon. Often just removing the insulated contact and washers NOT the mica tube! then cleaning the washers in clean gas then reassembling will fix the problem. In all the years that I have been playing with these things I have replaced one mica tube. |
ed redmond
New member
Username: redline
Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2010
| | Posted on Monday, June 28, 2010 - 08:10 pm: |
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thanks guys, i have my homework to do. so iassume the igniter moves in and out? the only movement i see with engine revolution so far is the eccentric rod goes up and down, moving the water pump piston, and the extension of the square steel rod the eccentric rod attaches to slides up, causing trigger to engage the spring loaded vertical rod, and coincidentallly, the horizontal bar rocks up and down over the fulcrum in the middle by about 5-10 degrees. further flywheel movement causes the vertical springloaded post to "click" back down.
unfortunately i have no diagram of the 4 acadia to correctly identify the moving parts.
ed |
Frank Petran
Senior Member
Username: frank_petran
Post Number: 117
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Monday, June 28, 2010 - 08:29 pm: |
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Ed,
I have a copy of a copy of an Acadia parts book for my 5 hp Acadia and I have to assume that the parts look the same. If you send me your email addr I'll email you the parts list and pictures. I don't know if the igniter moves in and out by itself. Ernie and Bruce can help you out there.
Frank |
ed redmond
Member
Username: redline
Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2010
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 06:20 am: |
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hi frank,
yes my email address is [email protected] can tell i like motors.but this is my first antique one!!
any help would be appreciated
ed redmond |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 1218
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 08:00 am: |
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Moving in and out is ONLY when you push it in and it will spring back out. This movement isn't much 1/8 inch max.
Normal operation is what you describe above. Moving it in and out while holding it closed is only to rub the 2 contacts together and hopefully clean them. |
ed redmond
Member
Username: redline
Post Number: 5
Registered: 06-2010
| | Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 08:21 am: |
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hi guys, an update. i got in tow with a marine engineer with an interest in these motors. he correctly felt the head needed to come off, and top ring was stuck, broke trying to free it..i was not patient enough.. and replaced with a top ring from my spare motor, water jacket three arm crack repaired with drilling, grinding and lots of coats of j@b weld, all parts cleaned and igniter freed up etc, reassembled and prepare for run up. last night, engine very difficulkt to start, would run only with the prop partly out of the water, 3 guys cuddled together in the cuddy. still ran for several minutes, then sputtered and died. on restart, every time we got her going with the weight in the front, as soon as we took weight from the front..i e load on the prop, she would fail sooner rather than later. although she seems to have decent compression on turning the crank, max the engineer feels it must be a comperession problem and has said the motor must go. any thoughts? we have very good spark from a 12 volt motorcycle battery, fuel to the carb, through a gas line filter. can i measure the compression through the priming cup? any ideas on what the compression should be? the fuel was put in the tank neat, then the oil added...could a non adequately mixed fuel contribute to a low compression state?
as usual..HELLLLLLLP!!!! smiling but frustrated
ed redmond |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 1232
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Friday, July 09, 2010 - 04:52 pm: |
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With the engine bolted into the boat and the prop shaft hooked up does it still turn as free as it does with out the shaft hooked up? Just about all of the Acadia engines I have messed around with if you put the piston at TDC and give the flywheel a nudge it will go amost all the way to BDC by itself. In fact I think that is the way they were set up at the factory. As to compression it should bounce back a lot if you yank it up towards TDC. Where is your timing? The ignitor should snap with the crank handle between 10 and 11 or 3 and 2 depending on which way it is running.
Fuel should ALWAYS be pre mixed before putting it in the tank. 30W non detergent 16 to 1 or half pint to a gallon. What effect does adjusting the fuel mixture needle valve and the air adjustment on the top of the carb have?
What you describe can be something as simple as to rich as well as lots of others.
If the compression is bouncy and has quite a bit of resistance turning the flywheel through TDC look at everything else first.
How big is the prop? Should be no bigger than 13x13 or something that works out to about that. Basically the diameter of the flywheel in dia and pitch.
How does it run out of the boat or with the shaft unhooked?
Hope this helps
Ernie |
Sid Butt
Member
Username: quiffhat
Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Friday, July 16, 2010 - 12:23 am: |
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Provided everything else is set up right,just a guess, I would say you washed the cylinder walls when you put the straight gas in the tank. Bleed the line and carb, half fill the priming cup with oil, and draw it into the cylinder. spread it around by rocking the fly wheel, will smoke ,when you start her,but should not harm anything. |
