| Author |
Message |
    
peter ogborne
New member
Username: moriarty
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 31, 2016 - 07:51 pm: | 
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I have a 1 inch Schebler carby ,can someone please advise me if a gasket is fitted to the float chamber top. I understand that an '' O ring'' can be used for the centre throat but the outer is the one I am interested in. |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1165
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 31, 2016 - 09:43 pm: |
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The outside doesn't use a gasket. |
peter ogborne
New member
Username: moriarty
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2016 - 08:33 am: |
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Thank you JB.....as I have made a new float I am trying to get the fuel level right , working on getting it just below the venturi..means sort of bending things !! Is this the correct way to do this ? |
peter ogborne
New member
Username: moriarty
Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2016 - 08:59 am: |
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I am using this 1 inch Schebler on a 4 cycle hot tube engine . I have converted the engine to magneto ignition using a Bosch type 22 flick maggy . Should I remove the air intake check valve ............so far I am not having any luck to get the engine to run . I can get it to kick by flicking the magneto . Unfortunately this engine ,a side shaft type has no timing marks on the skew gears so it has just been a matter of setting the valve timeing by trial and error ..both inlet and exhaust just rocking at BDC ,any ideas greatfully accepted. |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1167
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2016 - 09:41 am: |
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The flutter valve has no effect at idle-low speed. Air comes through the port below it until higher speeds are obtained. The principle is to adjust mixture at low speed with the needle, high speed with the spring behind the flutter valve, if you get this to work correctly let me know. Cam timing should be correct if valves are rocking at TDC. Ignition timing should spark around TDC when cranking. I like to set the wire back from the plug 1/16th or so when having starting problems, be sure it is firing every time while cranking. Does priming the cylinder help? if it runs on prime and dies it needs more gas, if it doesn't fire when primed it 's probably flooded or losing ignition. Is compression good, if it seems low put oil in the cylinder and se if it helps. |
John Lucas
New member
Username: imotorhead
Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Thursday, June 02, 2016 - 10:35 am: |
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Hi Peter, No timing gears shouldn't be a problem.. the exhaust valve should open near the end or bottom of the stroke and close near the top followed by the intake opening, (like J.B. said) if the valves are close then I doubt it's the problem. The next issue would be spark and fuel. If you have a priming cup I would put some fuel in there or remove the spark plug and squirt some in. Big one cylinder engine often take a fair amount of fuel to get started... Check the mag by removing the plug and watching for spark.. sometime closing the gap is a good thing because even though it's jumping when the plug is out under compression it takes more voltage to make the spark jump... here is a link to a discussion about the Schebler that might be of some help... http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158558 Good Luck! |
John Lucas
Member
Username: imotorhead
Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2016 - 01:08 pm: |
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hi peter, I meant to say "no timing marks".. not ""no timing gears.. any luck on the engine? also i was curious what kind is it? |
peter ogborne
Member
Username: moriarty
Post Number: 4
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Sunday, June 05, 2016 - 08:24 pm: |
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John,thanks for your interest. The engine is a 1900 Pasley oil engine,7 hp ,three valve designed to run on oil [kero] .It is hot tube ignition,blowlamp start. It is a single cylinder ,5 1/2 bore x 4 3/4 stroke ,hit and miss . Whe I found the engine so much was missing and it has taken me years to actualy indentify the make ...name plate gone . Many vital parts were missing and I had nothing to go on in making replacements .However, I did make up a fuel valve and did have the engine running but not as it should .So until I can perfect the fuel regulating system I want to run it with magneto ignition, using the Bosch 22 magneto and the Schebler carby.
With this system i can get it it kick by flicking the maggy...thats as far as I can get at the moment.
I forgot to say it is not a marine engine!! |
John Lucas
Member
Username: imotorhead
Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Monday, June 06, 2016 - 08:11 am: |
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Hi Peter, I did a search for Pasley oil engine and found this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksazOzmE0Q4
it appears to be a hot bulb engine which might be difficult to make run with a spark plug.
I'm not sure if your engine is hot bulb or hot tube? anyhow there is a difference. If it is a hot bulb like the engine in the video I'm curious where you have the spark plug installed? any pictures?
here's a neat video that has an explanation of the hot bulb operation.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMdLbPS9R20
All the best John |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1168
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Monday, June 06, 2016 - 02:01 pm: |
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When using a plug to replace these ignitions be sure that the plug reach is long enough to get inside the cylinder. My Fisherman usually starts on the first bounce. One year in Portland we were starting an oilfield engine, rigged a timer on the timing gear with a hose clamp, used the long reach plug from my Fisherman and got it running. I put a new standard reach 1/2" pipe plug, it wouldn't start, long plug started it first crank.
I had the same problem starting Richard Durgee's 3 cylinder Syracuse, made some long reach plugs with pipe bushings tapped 14MM and long reach automotive plugs, worked fine. |
John Lucas
Member
Username: imotorhead
Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Monday, June 06, 2016 - 03:08 pm: |
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I did a little more searching on "Pasley oil engines" and found this...
https://sdfhs.wordpress.com/2015/11/29/the-pasley-engine-company-sherborne/
https://www.photography-forum.org/threads/one-hundred-year-old-engine.126368/
there deosn't seem to be much information on the company or how the engine works though. It appears you have a pretty rare engine! From watching the video it looks as if the intake goes directly into the side of the hot bulb. I' assuming your spark plug is also located in the hot bulb and if it's located in an area where the fuel / air is in a combustable range I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. Sometimes a attaching buzz coil with a timer (model T type) is a good way to make an engine run... I also like JB's idea of trying a long reach plug if you have one available... anyhow good luck and I'd love to see some pictures or a video if you have the time. I recently made a running example of a Brayton engine which was a fairly challenging thing to make run properly... |
peter ogborne
Member
Username: moriarty
Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 21, 2016 - 07:58 pm: |
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John and JB ,thanks for your replies ,with Pasley engines you dont often see two the same .The example on the video differs from mine .
My engine has both an extenal and an internal hot tube . The external tube was intact when I found the engine .However the internal was damaged but the remains were there ...a brass tube with some insulating material . My governor is different , it is a belt driven ,from the crankshaft drum with internal bob weights. The weights operate a rod which in turn lifts an interupter which either does or does not allow the inlet vapour valve to operate.....this valve allows vapourised fuel to enter the combustion chamber. The engine in this form is a ''Hit and Miss'' goverened type.
Re your question as to where am I putting the spark plug ,it is located where the internal hot tube was attached....I am using a long reach plug.
On the video you can see a brass fitting on top of the cylinder head end of the engine ,you can see a fuel line running to this fitting. I do know that this is the original type of fuel regulating valve . It allows oil to be sucked into the hot box ,with a proprinate amount of air .....there is also another air valve on top of the cylinder on my engine . Perhaps this is just a relief valve when the engine is on the ''Miss '' cycle ,maybe it also allows air in for combustion? I only have very sketchy information as to the contruction of the valve ,my attempt to replicate it have not as yet been successful.
The image that you included in your reply [ 100 year old engine ] was in fact my engine . I did have a very limited success running it as it should run ...kerosene fuel ,lamp start using a fuel regulating system based on the same as some Crossley engines ,that is a lightly loaded poppet valve with a small hole drilled in the valve seat....this worked but was not right right ,hard to start ,not too reliable .I just was not happy with it .
My reason as to get it running with magneto ignition and carburettor are just to have it ''Rotating''.
I'll post some more explanatory pictures .
Thank you both for your interest. |
