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Zenith Carburator for the Palmer P-60...

Old Marine Engine » Carburetors, Mixers, Vaporizors » Zenith Carburator for the Palmer P-60 Engine « Previous Next »

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Howard Taylor
Member
Username: catec

Post Number: 11
Registered: 01-2006
Posted on Sunday, September 19, 2010 - 11:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I could not find a new replacement for the Palmer P-60 engine, so I purchased a Zenith Model 13794 carb that is recommended for the old IHC (Farmall) Cub M-60 engine.
I modified the manifold mounting flange as shown and moved the throttle lever to the opposite side.
The unit works perfectly for my Morgan 30 sailboat. If anyone needs more info, please contact me [email protected]
application/pdfZenith 13794 Carburator Modifications
Zenith 13794 Carburator Modification for Palmer M-60.pdf (86.4 k)
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 902
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Monday, September 20, 2010 - 03:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Be careful using a tractor carb on a marine engine can be life threatening. There is no pick up tube in the typical tractor carburetor. How do you deal with the backfire trap and PCV system?? Why not just get a NAPA 2-1565 carb kit and rebuild the Zenith 61 marine carb???
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Herb Lehr
Visitor
Posted on Monday, August 15, 2011 - 10:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Mr. Day
I am having the devil's own time resolving a difficulty with gasoline dribbling through the carb of my Palmer M-60. I've replace the needle and seat but still it dribbles through.
What can be the problem?
Thank you for your consideration.
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 982
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Tuesday, August 16, 2011 - 11:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My first place to look is the top of the fuel inlet to the float valve. You need to inject compressed air through a small pipe to the bottom of the fuel inlet so the compressed air blows any trash back out along side the small pipe. Just blowing compressed air into the top of the float valve fuel inlet doesn't flush out any trash it just packs it in harder. You will need to remove the fuel line connection if it is has a right angle turn. Best I can offer.
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Herb Lehr
Visitor
Posted on Sunday, October 14, 2012 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The dribbling through thing, is that only a function of the needle/seat mechanism? I too have that problem.
Why do you think gravity feed of the fuel doesn't work?
I suspect that my electric fuel pump builds pressure that the needle/seat cannot handle??
But, on the flip side, why does it driblle when the motor/engine is shut off??
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Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday

Post Number: 1026
Registered: 11-2003


Posted on Sunday, October 14, 2012 - 06:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Your problem is you are confusing the needle valve with the float bowl inlet valve. Apparently trash has been trapped on the bowl inlet valve seat and the float cannot stop the fuel flow when it tries to.
Get a Zenith 61 series Napa rebuild kit NAPA 2-1565. Last I heard their price is about $30.00.
Remove the carb and clean out the fuel inlet over the top of the float valve. I explained how to try to clean out the inlet over the float valve with compressed air. Assumed you tried that and it didn't cure the problem. If the inlet valve is rough or damaged replace the valve. You probably will need the factory bowl gasket when you reassemble the carb. Best I can offer.

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