| Author |
Message |
    
Frank Petran
Senior Member
Username: frank_petran
Post Number: 69
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 07:29 pm: | 
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Does anyone know of a replacement spring for the air valve. From a copy of a parts list there doesn't seem to be any difference between sizes. Also can rubber be used instead of leather for the air valve disk. I found a source (McMaster Carr) for the nut. 5/16 panel nut # 18621518, Nickle platted brass. |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 490
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 09:50 pm: |
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THe material would have to be fuel proof, it's not necessary to have a tight seal, the leather was for a cushion since the valve flutters and would quickly wear out the seat. Some of the teflon like plastics would probably be OK. |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 828
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 04:08 pm: |
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Joe Suydham told me the air valve spring should always be shortened at the top small end where it meets the adjusting screw. The heavy spring on to of the air valve is simply a lock holding the tension set by the threaded rod from moveing to a different setting. Now Joe was a really talented old timer with these engines and his cautions were not to be ignored. I must admit it puzzels me as the few turn at the top of the spring don't seem to have any effect on the disk pressure. Running the threaded shaft up or down gives far more or less pressure on the leather on the valve seat. Myself I have never had any luck changing the spring pressure by removing the turns at the top. Joe was adamant and I find it hard to prove him wrong. Any thoughts. |
B Millar
New member
Username: bcm
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 07:16 pm: |
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I use Stainless Steel Springs that I bought from Century Spring. I found that often the spring in Scheblers was substituted some time in the past so I decided to use the Century spring in all my carbs.
First of all I screw in the threaded adjusting rod until there is a bit of compression on the spring. Then when the engine is running as good as I can get it by adjusting the needle valve I put more force on the spring until the engine just starts to slow down then I back off about one turn.
Seems to work for me.
Here’s a picture of the Century Spring.
Only problem is you have to buy a bunch from Century as the have a minimum order amount.
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Frank Petran
Senior Member
Username: frank_petran
Post Number: 71
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 08:01 pm: |
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Thnaks for the info. I checked the web site and found a spring that has a .035 wire which is what the old one was and like the one you show, it is only 1 inch. I have another carb with good spring and it is 1 1/4 inch long so I am going to try the one from Century. I don't know to much about the pounds of pressure needed to compress the spring but the one in the listing says 3.9 average. As I can't find a spring to match the origonal one I'll order that spring, # TA2375 as it is the closest match. |
B Millar
New member
Username: bcm
Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 09:46 am: |
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Frank,
I checked my records. The Century part number is the same |
