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| Exhaust Leak / Exhaust Wrap? |
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Message |
    
Scott Helgesen
Member
Username: paperboy
Post Number: 7
Registered: 06-2006
| | Posted on Monday, April 30, 2007 - 09:03 am: | 
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I think I have a exhaust leak, my exhaust is wraped with a white kind of 2" wide cloth. Here is a Picture...
From the discoloration in the wrap I think the leak might be there. If I take the wrap off the exhasut pipe is not solid it looks like a braided wire mesh maybe some type of flex.
I was thinking of using that stuff called Rescue tape http://www.rescuetape.com/index.html says it works up to 500 deg. Any tips?
Scott |
Scott Helgesen
Member
Username: paperboy
Post Number: 8
Registered: 06-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 01:51 pm: |
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Any help? |
Richard Shapiro
Member
Username: mainesails
Post Number: 29
Registered: 09-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 01, 2007 - 05:29 pm: |
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I didn't answer before because it is a situation I've never been in. So, this is based on general experience and not on specifics.
It's almost impossible to retain gasses under pressure with tape. I simply don't think it will work. I wouldn’t mess around with tape. I DEFINITELY wouldn’t take a risk on carbon monoxide poisoning.
Your photo doesn't show enough of the compartment for me to see clearly what's going on. Is this the "hot" section of the pipe with the water injected back by the bulkhead? Does the exhaust come straight back from the engine?
If so, you appear to be missing an important component. Typically, the exhaust leads upwards from the engine through a metal U-bend and the water is injected at the top or on the far side of the U. Flexible exhaust hose attaches to the back side of the U (with an optional waterlift muffler). This is the arrangement I have, and the U-bend is cast steel.
On some older boats, the exhaust leads through a cast elbow to a galvanized steel “hot pipe” which points upwards. There is another elbow with the water injection at the top. This type of pipe is generally wrapped with insulation – possibly asbestos – since it gets the full force of the hot exhaust gasses and the cooling water has yet to be added.
The riser is there to create a barrier so that water doesn't come back up through the exhaust and go straight down into the engine. Also, if you have a modified cooling system, it keeps cooling water from backing up into the engine if you have to crank it for a prolonged time (not a consideration with a stock P60 setup if it is functioning properly).
That said, if you aren’t actually missing the riser, I’d try to find some galvanized steel pipe and some insulation to wrap it with. |
marc venturella
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2007 - 01:39 am: |
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looking for a palmer p-60 block to buy, I cracked mine, 510-759-9254, marc |
Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 179
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2007 - 04:38 pm: |
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The block itself is interchangeable with a International Harvester LoBoy tractor C-60 engine. You will have to use the crankshaft and fly wheel from your existing engine. Engine rebuild kits and new after market cylinder heads are available from tractor parts houses (Value-built, Steiner tractor, ect). If you use a tractor cylinder head you will have to drill and tap a 1/8 inch pipe thread hole into the top and forward end of the cyl head for the fitting for the air bleed hose. A copper cyl. head gasket is recommended for use in salt water. |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 500
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2007 - 06:10 pm: |
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Better read all the postings regarding the P-60 before you do anything as you can really screw up the job. It is all there and any tractor engine rebuilder can do the job but you better save every part until you have finished the job as there are parts that fit the CUB LO BOY C-60 and they are Palmer Parts not IHC parts and without them you will not be able to complete the conversion of the tractor block back to the marine engine. Also be careful where you drill and tap for the air bleed 1/8" NPT on the head. That measurement is in the material under the P-60, Save the valve cover from the old P-60 or you will not be able to complete the PCV system.
If you need an exhaust manifold they are hard to find. Better find that before you do anything else as without it you are dead in the water so to speak. I say again read every entry if you are seriously going to try to rebuild as the tractor people know nothing about marine conversions. They are great tractor people and very few ever heard of Palmer and the P-60. |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 645
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2007 - 07:37 pm: |
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I have a manifold. Contact me via e-mail of you are interested |
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