| Author |
Message |
    
john_drabik
Member
Username: john_drabik
Post Number: 14
Registered: 12-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, April 01, 2006 - 09:33 am: | 
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I`m reassembling my Arrow. What type of sealing stuff can I apply at the copper jacket base where it meets the cast iron cylinder?
Perhaps something soft and non-hardening that will make it easy to remove the jacket in the future. Maybe just thick grease? |
foxman
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, April 01, 2006 - 05:13 pm: |
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I don't think you should need any sealant. Copper water jackets for waterman/arrow/dispros, so far as I know are simply press fitted on. Copper is ductile (pliable) enough so it should mould to a harder metal (cast iron) it is pressed against. My St Lawrence has copper head gaskets and they seem to work ok. I might suggest you check out the dispro site- maybe they would know. |
thomas
Senior Member
Username: thomas
Post Number: 188
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, April 02, 2006 - 06:43 pm: |
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John,
I have two single Dispro engines and a twin Caille all with copper jackets. It looks like there is the 5/8" sealing edge on the bottom where the jacket is almost a force fit plus there is a gap at the top around the spark plug hole with a washer face about 1/4" wide that could leak. I have never done one of these but I WILL in the future. What can the experts here tell us? Is it something to use the non-hardening Permatex or should we assemble the jacket and the clamp ring and then put a wash of gas tank sealer on the inside? I have used POR-15 in several of my cast iron engines as a sealer after doing the acid cleanout and neutralization with lye and then formaldhyde. (anybody ever read "Old Cars" magazine?).
Tom |
john_drabik
Member
Username: john_drabik
Post Number: 15
Registered: 12-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 02, 2006 - 07:48 pm: |
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Permatex nonhardening or RTV or the POR-15 will certainly seal the joint. My concern is for the next guy or myself who has to remove the jacket. Mine originally didnt come apart easily and my biggest worry was deforming the copper jacket.
I ended up using some old very thick grease for reassembly. I also used an extremely thin coat on the inside of steel clamping ring so it wouldnt pick up on the copper while seating. If it doesnt seal I can always pull the jacket and try something different. |
jules
Member
Username: jules
Post Number: 25
Registered: 08-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 02, 2006 - 10:45 pm: |
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I've always just used a very light smear of grease and nothing else. This is the standard for all the early motor vehicles engines I've restored with copper gaskets. |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 217
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, April 03, 2006 - 11:57 am: |
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The Dippy Doctor ( Doddington) doesn't use any gunk to seal the joint - it should be a nice tight fit . He does use a very thin smear to make sure the jacket slides over the cast iron base.
He's done several hundred re-builds to date
If there are small leaks, ( less than 1 drip per minute) it usually sealls itself after some running.
miro |
john_drabik
Member
Username: john_drabik
Post Number: 17
Registered: 12-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 16, 2006 - 10:22 am: |
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Ayup, Finally had time to finish reassembling the Arrow/Waterman this morning. I used a thin coat of Neverseize to seal the coppertop. Got it started and ran it for about a half hour with only a minor easy fix leak at the water pump So I guess it was a successful reassembly.
Thanks to all for your insight dealing with coppertops.
John |
