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| Palmer YT-1 not running well |
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narrabay2
Senior Member
Username: narrabay2
Post Number: 192
Registered: 10-2019
| | Posted on Friday, July 30, 2021 - 11:49 pm: | 
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This is a real head scratcher. WAS running perfect, then started to die out and not idle. Found the timer roller was rusty and a few drops water in the float bowl. Cleaned out the carb, and made a new stainless timer roller and brass axle for it to no avail. Tried a different coil, replaced the spark plug and wire and more.
Now looking at electrical even though the buzz box is zapping away seemingly reliably, going to make a standalone ignition box with its own battery in case the boat electrical may be intermittent somehow.
Not much to ad but it was suggested I post here! There is more to add but when I'm not tired...
Engine feels like it has good compression (and it has new rings and was sleeved).
Video:
https://youtu.be/3Xpy216E5z4 |
narrabay2
Senior Member
Username: narrabay2
Post Number: 194
Registered: 10-2019
| | Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2021 - 01:00 pm: |
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Ok it seems much better with a direct connect battery to the coil box, no ignition switch, fuse or anything. Also replacing the Autolite 3076 with the Motorcraft TT10 seemed to help as well. So there would seem to have been resistance or connection issues in the boat wiring. Hopefully thats it anyway!
https://youtu.be/tP7HOn0Zg4A |
chris_spring
Senior Member
Username: chris_spring
Post Number: 132
Registered: 02-2019
| | Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2021 - 02:35 pm: |
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Of those, spark plug is the only change that could affect the outcome. I could be wrong.
Welcome to the Cantankerous Old Engine Owners Club.
Cheers! |
narrabay2
Senior Member
Username: narrabay2
Post Number: 195
Registered: 10-2019
| | Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2021 - 04:32 pm: |
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Hi Chris,
Thanks. I would have thought that too before this process. Ernie gave me very detailed advice to check for voltage drop in a circuit under load. While doing that I noticed the DMM dropped into the 11s at one point while moving the few wires this boat has. Also, the marine panel voltmeter was occasionally flickering as the buzz coil fired. (That was the big hint I should have paid more attention to). So to try the ultimate substitution, I hooked up a separate fresh charged 12v battery to the coil and engine with short, soldered leads, and changed the plug. That's when it ran way better. Hooked up the boat wiring and it started getting less reliable. I should add that this issue ranged from subtle to blatant and back again. You'd think you made an improvement by adjusting the carb jet, because coincidentally, I guess, the connection got a little better from all the one-lunger vibration.
So anyway, I just spent a few hours today making all new leads with soldered terminals, and especially, took apart the key switch and ran the wire brush over the internal contacts. No more volt meter needle flicker, and it runs almost 100%
Having a key switch or similar is helpful to turn on the tacho and voltmeter and when the engine stumbles like when cutting the throttle, nice to have that key to hit even before it stops. Being a starter generator, it is always engaged.
I hope and PRAY that this repair holds!
This is the before pic inside of the key switch, I didnt take an after but it was shiny new. I did not know what type of grease or if I should use any, but when I find that out I can open it up and apply something to protect it. This is a very old vintage boat key switch.
Also, now I can share the Cuno timer repair I did making the stainless steel roller since that apparently was a success, but in its own thread, in case that may help someone else someday.
Anyway, hoping to get that drone footage if this passes the next "sea trials"! That will have to be in vintage looking clothing and no obvious "anachronisms" in the boat, kind of how you run with the modern safety stuff inside a wicker basket etc.
Regards,
Chris
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chris_spring
Senior Member
Username: chris_spring
Post Number: 133
Registered: 02-2019
| | Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2021 - 05:06 pm: |
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Ok. Now that makes sense.
I ran into something similar with the Adams.
WRT grease. My daughter found a tube of conductive grease on I believe Amazon. The Adams timer uses a plunger which make contact with a rotating button connected to ground. I had noticed some arcing internally between the plunger and its outer case. The conductive grease prevents that.Unfortunately I can't tell you the name of gthe grease since it is about 2000 miles away right now, but it might help your situation. Conductive as opposed to dielectric.
Cheers! |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2646
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Monday, August 02, 2021 - 12:11 pm: |
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I like plain old knife switches.
All parts exposed so when it does get corrosion you just open and close it a bunch or scrape the contacts with a pocket knife.
Plus they look kool. Notice is said when it does, it isn't an issue of maybe it is that it will. Usually at the worst time.
Ernie |
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