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Message |
    
paulgray
New member
Username: paulgray
Post Number: 12
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Friday, July 30, 2004 - 08:26 pm: | 
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Anyone have any info on this little engine? Color?
This one needs a lot of TLC- some nasty water jacket cracks. Looking for a 2-cyl timer for it too. I have some info in 1909 Hiscox book. Maybe a showing at Calvert next year. |
richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 489
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Friday, July 30, 2004 - 10:54 pm: |
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Two twins listed 6Hp 4inch bore,9HP 4 1/2 BORE.
have not found reference to oginal paint color as yet. if these look to old, I can look for later ads ! let me know !
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paulgray
Senior Member
Username: paulgray
Post Number: 113
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, July 31, 2004 - 06:15 am: |
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Thanks Rich- This one is ~3" bore. Has a vertical shaft with water pump. Looks like one in Wendels book. Go ahead and post the older ones. |
richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 490
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, July 31, 2004 - 08:25 am: |
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Paul
The one in wendels is in a 1906 ad,it still has lever timer, the first year I find timer and w/pump is 1909, searching tells me this Co. started in very late 1890's and lasted untill 1911-12, they are not mentioned in 1913 marine eng maker list.
I have a 3 cyl circa 1907 that came from the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn when they ( De-Acessioned ) many of their artifacts a few years back. it also has a repaired crankcase where the connecting rod tried to get out, also has one of the old Holly carbs on it, very interesting old engs !!
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bruce
Senior Member
Username: bruce
Post Number: 208
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2004 - 10:45 pm: |
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I have a photo copy-1913 lackawana Mfg.Co ; Balston Spa NY. Testimonials show they were in Balston Spa as early as 1909.In business 15 years plus a direct reference to 1898 in the text. A single cylinder Type "K" 2 1/2 hp; 3x3 bore and stroke- flywheel 12" dia. for canoes and rowboats; In the motor line since 1906. A plunger pump was first available 1913 as substitute for standard rotary water pump at extra cost option. Timer listed as a Herz Lakawanna type- Lakawanna patent "Combined pump-Water intake Column and timer Bracket"...interchageabloe and removable as one element.4-5hp Type M (2cyl enbloc) 3x3 bore stroke 750--950 rpm; 12" flywheel. For boats up to 22". Timer mounted at rear of motor with water pump. Sorry- no paint color in this catalog.A 45HP 6cyl topped the line in 1913. |
paulgray
Senior Member
Username: paulgray
Post Number: 115
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Monday, October 18, 2004 - 08:27 pm: |
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I did some cleaning of the engine block this weekend and am seeing some gray paint under the crud; it appears to be original finish over red lead primer?. The gray paint is also on the flywheel. This old girl is going to need a lot of TLC to bring her back to life. The mains in the block do look servicible. Bores OK. Will have to babbit the rods and make wrist pin bushings. |
richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 572
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 19, 2004 - 10:32 am: |
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Paul
This is a 1909 ad,shows w/pump and timer, by the ads above and this one possible engine color is silver ??
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richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 573
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 19, 2004 - 10:19 pm: |
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1913 Lackawana ad
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richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 587
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2004 - 01:32 am: |
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Starboard side of above engine !
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paulgray
Advanced Member
Username: paulgray
Post Number: 35
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, September 03, 2006 - 03:43 pm: |
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Well I am back on the Lackawanna after a 2 year hiatus. Half of the exhaust chamber was missing when I got the engine to restore. I made a bondo pattern and had an iron insert cast to replace the missing part. Today I welded on the part and another small patch. I heated the casting to ~750F yesterday to dry it out and remove any oils. I used Si-Bronze rod (cusil) and tigged it back together. The trick was to only weld ~1 inch and let it cool, then move on to another spot. It builds up a big booger of weld, but it is easily ground off. For a non-structural part like the jacket, this should be fine. The bronze keeps the casting cool and a practice weld yesterday showed good penetration. George's method is preferable when the weld has to be structural and or the block has been exposed to salt water. This one will get the inside of the water jacket epoxy slushed to prevent any future corrosion. Still lots to do; rods have to be rebabbitted, wrist pin bushings replaced, piston pins replaced as they were removed.  |
paulgray
Advanced Member
Username: paulgray
Post Number: 36
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, September 03, 2006 - 03:44 pm: |
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Well I am back on the Lackawanna after a 2 year hiatus. Half of the exhaust chamber was missing when I got the engine to restore. I made a bondo pattern and had an iron insert cast to replace the missing part. Today I welded on the part and another small patch. I heated the casting to ~750F yesterday to dry it out and remove any oils. I used Si-Bronze rod (cusil) and tigged it back together. The trick was to only weld ~1 inch and let it cool, then move on to another spot. It builds up a big booger of weld, but it is easily ground off. For a non-structural part like the jacket, this should be fine. The bronze keeps the casting cool and a practice weld yesterday showed good penetration. George's method is preferable when the weld has to be structural and or the block has been exposed to salt water. This one will get the inside of the water jacket epoxy slushed to prevent any future corrosion. Still lots to do; rods have to be rebabbitted, wrist pin bushings replaced, piston pins replaced as they were removed.  |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 165
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 06, 2006 - 01:56 pm: |
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Nice work Paul, was the engine fteeze cracked or rust damaged? |
keith
Senior Member
Username: keith
Post Number: 146
Registered: 02-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 06, 2006 - 03:02 pm: |
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Paul
What kind of epoxy will you use that will handle the heat? |
paulgray
Advanced Member
Username: paulgray
Post Number: 37
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 06, 2006 - 04:07 pm: |
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JB- Both... The big piece shown was missing altogether; I presume it was rusted out and there was a rust spot on the side of the cylinder. So long as there is good iron, the CuSil seems to stick and bond well. Keith- Pretty much any old epoxy will work to slush the water jacket. Most of them will take well in excess of 250F without a problem. It'll seal hairline cracks but not any gaps. |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 377
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 06, 2006 - 08:52 pm: |
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I have a single cylinder Lackawanna which I got in 1935. Really in very good condition. Came from a launch that belonged to the husband of the daughter of the man that started American Railway Express. The Lackawanna plant in Newburgh, NY later became the plant of the Coldwell Lawnmower company. Don't know if it is still there or not. Will have to bring my engine to Calvert next spring. It runs great. Curious the way Lackawanna suddenly disappeared from the marine engine business??? They seemed to be big operator for some years. Wonder what happened. |
richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 1207
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, September 07, 2006 - 11:46 am: |
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richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 1208
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, September 07, 2006 - 12:07 pm: |
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Dick Days Lackawanna
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paulgray
Advanced Member
Username: paulgray
Post Number: 42
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 20, 2006 - 04:35 pm: |
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Got back working on the Lackawana- Gosh it was in need of some TLC. I had to ream the wrist pin holes oversize as they were egg-shaped and no 2 had the same diameter. Also reamed the wrist pin bushings while I was at it and turned some stock for new wrist pins. Installed piston ring pins, they were missing. Finished up the water jacket also and epoxied the inside of it. Slapped a coat of spray rustoleum primer on the cylinders. Poured new babbitt in the con rods- still have to machine it to size. I can see that will take a lot of fussing as the rods are brass and pretty crude. I can get away without rebabbitting the block- big relief. Any of you gents with a spare timer for a 2 cylinder, give me a holler. I have a Connecticut timer for a 4 cylinder car with a set of points inside of it- I hate to modify it but I think I can make it work AOK. While I am at it I need to make some stainless hi-crown bolts for the block+crankcase- this time only ~20 instead of 75 on the Barber. |
richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 1366
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, December 24, 2006 - 02:03 pm: |
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*
Lackawanna single -
1908
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paulgray
Advanced Member
Username: paulgray
Post Number: 47
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, March 31, 2007 - 08:16 pm: |
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More progress over the last few weeks- got it on a decent stand. Made the spark plug covers from some brass fittings. From the earlier posts, I see the pipe for the carb would be better suited to be two 1" elbows to bring it lower on the crankcase. Made the timer from a 1 cylinder jobbie which was pretty gone. Took a bit of fussing to get all the timer + water pump to mesh correctly. Hope to have it for Harry at Calvert. |
thomas
Senior Member
Username: thomas
Post Number: 270
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, April 01, 2007 - 01:00 pm: |
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Great Job. Lots of work in that stand!! |
paulgray
Advanced Member
Username: paulgray
Post Number: 48
Registered: 05-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, April 01, 2007 - 02:49 pm: |
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Thanks Thomas- The stand was made out of old pipe I had lying about. Pretty easy if you have a hole saw and a large pipe cutter. I picked up two 1" street els to lower the intake/carb- should make for a nicer set to the carby. |
