Adams

Author Message   spring New member Username: spring Post Number: 1 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Friday, June 29, 2018 - 12:46 pm:        I am in the process of researching the make and break single cylinder motor which is installed in a boat I would like to buy. The motor is a 1915 Adams. I estimate it would likely put out 3-4 hp. Apparently the Adams Launch and Engine Company produced these motors in Penetanguishine Ontario. My questions for you are several. First. Can anyone provide further info about the company and the motor? Second. Are parts still available? Third. If I decided to make the purchase and have the motor overhauled, who would be a good choice to contact? Any help you can provide in this regard would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!   jb_castagnos Senior Member Username: jb_castagnos Post Number: 1386 Registered: 07-2002 Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2018 - 06:20 am:        I can't help with info on your particular engine. Pictures would help identify it, it may be by another manufacturer and re badged. It's doubtful that anything besides piston rings are available, other parts would have to be fabricated. Does the engine turn, any compression, any parts missing?   bruce Senior Member Username: bruce Post Number: 647 Registered: 07-2002 Posted on Saturday, June 30, 2018 - 08:59 am:        Bruce G, What can you tell Chris Spring about the Adams Launch and Engine Company??   bruce_g Member Username: bruce_g Post Number: 25 Registered: 12-2009 Posted on Monday, July 02, 2018 - 12:52 pm:        The Adams Launch and Engine Co. started production in 1903. In the first year they made 10 engines.In about 1908 they made both blind head and bolt-on head engines. Where are you located? There are one or two rebuilders in the area. We have a few extra parts for these engines.   spring New member Username: spring Post Number: 2 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Monday, July 02, 2018 - 04:08 pm:        Thanks Bruce. I have been having trouble posting. Nothing seems to show. In any event, the motor is 1915. It is definitely an Adams. It is a bolt on head. It is not seized. I am near Ottawa. Cheers!   spring New member Username: spring Post Number: 3 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Monday, July 02, 2018 - 04:15 pm:        Hi again. I think I have my posting problems sorted. I am in the process of doing due diligence on a boat with this motor. The motor comes with its original operating manual produced by the Adams Launch and Engine Manufacturing Company, Penetanguishine, Ontario. Earlier I estimated 3-4 hp. More likely it is 2 hp. Adams built motors from 2-10 hp. This one has spark plug ignition vs ignitor. From my limited knowledge, what to look for on this motor is a question? From what little I know, if it is intact, and if neither the head nor the cylinder appear to be cracked, that would likely be a good starting point. Any advice would be helpful. Cheers!   bruce Senior Member Username: bruce Post Number: 648 Registered: 07-2002 Posted on Tuesday, July 03, 2018 - 02:31 pm:        Chris, try contacting Canadian engine collector Bruce Goss at [email protected]   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 4 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Tuesday, July 03, 2018 - 05:35 pm:        Thanks Bruce. It looks like I am one step closer to the purchase. I was able to contact the owner this morning. He will hold the boat for me until I can get over to inspect it. It also seems he might know where several other Adams motors could possibly be found. Little by little it seems to be coming together. I'll contact Bruce Goss. Cheers!   bgoss Senior Member Username: bgoss Post Number: 259 Registered: 12-2007 Posted on Tuesday, July 03, 2018 - 08:41 pm:        Chris - Do you know if the boat is a Gidley, Adams or ? Looking forward to seeing some photos. Blair   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 5 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Wednesday, July 04, 2018 - 07:20 am:        The boat is a Gidley.   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 6 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2018 - 08:48 pm:        I bought the Gidley. It appears to be complete. The motor both turns and has some compression. The next question is what would you do to return it to service if this was yours? Tear it down and clean, inspect and repair as necessary? or, put some fuel in it and see if it will start? I have tried uploading pics but apparently they are too big. Cheers!   bruce Senior Member Username: bruce Post Number: 649 Registered: 07-2002 Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 09:50 am:        Chris, I'm also looking forward to seeing pictures of the Gidley Launch and the Adams engine..   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 7 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 12:09 pm:        Nothing seems to be working in terms of being able to upload pics. that is frustrating. In any event, according to Larry the motor is 2 1/2 hp. It comes with an original owners manual. The manual refers to make and break, as well as jump spark ignition systems. I am assuming that since this motor has a top mounted spark plug, it is in fact a jump spark system. I didn't see the ignition box. Larry assures me it is there. As I mentioned, the entire motor appears to be intact with no broken parts. The carburetor is a Monarch as opposed to Schebler. I'm pretty excited about it. This thing is a veritable time capsule. The boat itself does not appear to require a great deal of work. Most of what needs to be done is cosmetic. Any input folks here can provide WRT the motor would be helpful. I am of the opinion that I should probably open the motor up, clean it, and give it a good inspection and lubrication before attempting to start it for the first time. Adams says it will burn any grade of gasoline, and that the oil mix should not exceed 1 pint per gallon. I am interested on your opinions WRT fuel, oil, and lubricants. I am also curious as to what kind of fuel consumption I can expect? The fuel tank is mounted in the bow, and at a guess i would say that it likely holds about 3 gallons. Parallel to that, I have no idea how much power the ignition system will use. I will use a Ford trembler. I am planning on 6v as opposed to 12. I have no idea what to use for a battery, or how long it will last between charges. As I mentioned, on all of these points, any input you can provide would be helpful. Cheers!   bruce Senior Member Username: bruce Post Number: 650 Registered: 07-2002 Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 02:17 pm:        Some people use 2nd hand lawn mower or Motorcycle batteries. I've seen emergency exit lighting batteries used. 6 volt saves the points on the trembler but harder to find a source. A couple three 9 volt dry cells wired in paralell would get you going-coil doesn't use a lot of juice. Think about the old dry cells that were used originally. Members here are pretty good about helping post pictures to this site if you e-mail them the pictures. Personally I'd not tear into the Adams before you get it running unless there is an obvious problem like play in the crank or rod bearing. A friend of mine has an Adams in his shop at present complete with builders badge. I'll see if I can get pictures to e-mail to you. I'm excited to see pictures of the Gidley boat!! Maybe start with 16:1 oil OR 32:1 MIX   dick_briggs Member Username: dick_briggs Post Number: 25 Registered: 02-2015 Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 05:50 pm:        Here is a very good article by an expert - Dick Dat: https://www.gasenginemagazine.com/gas-engines/antique-marine-engine-tips   dick_briggs Member Username: dick_briggs Post Number: 26 Registered: 02-2015 Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 05:51 pm:        Sorry - Dick Day!!!   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 8 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 08:27 pm:        Thank you Dick and Bruce. When it comes to info, all donations gratefully accepted. Cheers!   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 9 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 08:36 pm:        Here she is. http://www.portcarlingboats.com/our-newest-listing-an-historic-gidley-inboard-do ry-16-1915/ cheers!   bruce Senior Member Username: bruce Post Number: 651 Registered: 07-2002 Posted on Wednesday, July 18, 2018 - 09:59 pm:        Thanks Chris, Amazing condition!! A good scrub down inside and rock and roll. Don't want it to look too awful new-leave some age to it. Sure is a ROUND bottom..   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 10 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2018 - 10:37 am:        Thanks Bruce. This restoration will require thought, care and attention. The intention is to use the boat. To do that there will be remedial work required, fortunately nothing major. It is rare to find a time capsule like this. About the absolute worst thing a well intentioned individual could do would be to restore it in such a way its history and patina is lost. In this case the focus will be to make it serviceable. Where that requires the use of modern paints for example, they will be applied over the original in such a way that they can be removed. If new parts are required, the old ones will be kept so they may be re-installed to return the boat to its original condition. My concern with the Adams has been that without tearing it down, cleaning, and inspecting it first, I might drastically shorten its life. If folks here were to say, don't worry about it. These things are nearly bulletproof. If there is nothing obvious, it'll be fine, it will get a cleaning and an attempt will be made to start it. But first, I have to get it home. Cheers!   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 11 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Thursday, July 26, 2018 - 08:12 pm:        Currently I am bidding on 2 Ford Model A/T exciter boxes. Larry says the boat has one. I didn't see it and am assuming that in fact there is none. The ones I am bidding on have been overhauled, tested and set at 1.3 amps. With those I should have enough spares to last quite awhile. What I need is your input WRT ignition (spark plug) lead. I could go to some place like NAPA and find a suitable automotive lead, but in pics I have seen used a type of lead I can't identify that would be more correct for the period. What say you? It sounds as if basic math will sort which 6v battery I should choose. I am aiming toward something with lots of capacity and small dimensions. That way I could build a box to hide it that would be sympathetic to the period. If, by chance I could get by with say a 7.4v lipo battery as used on RC model aircraft or drones, I could likely stow everything in the existing box shown in the pics. Tomorrow I will narrow the search on a suitable trailer. After that I go get it. Looking at my calendar I could possibly have the Gidley home by the end of next week. And then the fun begins. Cheers!   bruce Senior Member Username: bruce Post Number: 654 Registered: 07-2002 Posted on Friday, July 27, 2018 - 08:04 am:        That Lipo battery sounds about right. choose your trailer carefully as the proper hull support for trailering and storing is critical to the continued integrity of the hull. Just imagine rolling along at 85 KPH and and bumping over pot holes with that 80 pound engine on board   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 12 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Friday, July 27, 2018 - 08:54 am:        Thanks Bruce. I have narrowed the trailer search to two models. Both have adjustable bunks. I will likely purchase one today. I have been concerned about hull support, and getting the boat safely home. I had already planned that for the trip home I would purchase a sheet of 2" insulation foam which I can cut and shape. I will use it to build up the bunks to follow the shape of the hull and to better distribute the load. I will also throw in a 6" plank which could come in handy in supporting the keel for most of its length. An additional option would be to remove the engine and carry it separately in the box of the truck. Cheers!   miro Senior Member Username: miro Post Number: 984 Registered: 11-2001 Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2018 - 01:34 pm:        Chris, I think you'll need to think seriously about trailering the boat . That engine bed looks original (modest) and with wide spaced ribs, you'll see quite a bit of flex in the hull, when it is out of the water. If it were my boat, I'd lift the engine out of the boat before trailering it. As for ignition, I'm using the 12V design which is a modern version of the Model T type buzz coil hidden in a wooden box made of quarter sawn oak. It draws about 0.7A but gives about 2x the output voltage - much more efficient but looks correct to the period. The last thing you want to experience is an ignition failure when you're out in the boat. At a Show - not so bad. The battery is a small AGM (Sayal Electronics in Barrie) . I have made up kits for some of the guys and you supply the your own 12V coil and the box. I use a 25:1 gas oil mix. On an older used engine, the richer oil mix helps seal the piston. Some of the guys use as rich as 16:1 mix for worn engines. The seal also helps with the bump starting - much easier than taking the piston up over TDC . I'm near Port Carling - where are you? Here's my boat. http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/4/276504.html And recent work on the cosmetics http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/4/278190.html miro   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 13 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Saturday, July 28, 2018 - 09:40 pm:        Thanks Miro. All the info you provided is helpful. You will note in my post above that removing the motor prior to transport is certainly being considered. Your launch looks pretty cool. And I love the sound. I live about 30 minutes south of Ottawa. Cheers!   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 15 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2018 - 05:14 pm:        https://youtu.be/AupCHdaUxgA   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 16 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Friday, August 03, 2018 - 07:37 am:        I have been successful on scoring two Ford ignition boxes from eBay. Miro's setup is no doubt more efficient, but I elected to go with the Ford boxes at 1.3 amps. I can change it to his system later if I wish. Yesterday I purchased an Excalibur BT1200 trailer. It has the length and adjustable bunks. Today, I will modify it to provide keel support over 12' of its length. And as mentioned earlier, when I go to pick up the boat I will have a hockey sock full of stuff to ensure adequate hull support for the trip home. If I decide the motor should be removed, I'll do that before moving the boat anywhere. It can ride in the box of the truck. Since I can't get down and back same day, the current plan calls for me to pick up the boat, then only move it about a 40 minute drive away to where I will overnight and can check how it was loaded. Any difficulties can be rectified there. And yesterday as well, I scored two 6V 20 ah lead acid batteries for the ignition system. One and a spare. They come from an emergency lighting kit. At the price, I couldn't turn them down. They were much cheaper than the lipo's I had originally intended to use. I think that all I need now is a suitable ignition lead and some wire, and once home and cleaned up,I should be able to try to run the Adams. Small steps. Cheers!   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 20 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Monday, August 13, 2018 - 06:40 pm:        The Gidley followed me home last Thursday. It made the trip without a scratch. Friday I started surveying it. I found no huge surprises. There are a few things that predictably cropped up. All seem easily rectified. One however still has me mystified. The boat overall is in very good condition, however, there is a bevel (mitre) gear on the motor located immediately behind the flywheel. It has some lash in it. I have been in contact with Bruce Goss who suggests JB Weld to secure the bevel gear to the flywheel. I have no reason to doubt Bruce, however, before I take that step, is there anyone else out there with perhaps an Adams in captivity, who can confirm that there should be no lash? Cheers!   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 23 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Monday, August 20, 2018 - 05:10 pm:        I think I am getting fairly close to running the Adams. If I can get the time to putter with it. I am in the hunt for an ignition lead, even something I can use temporarily just to get it running. Any thoughts? Would any old wire do for now. Cheers!   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 24 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Wednesday, August 22, 2018 - 09:37 pm:        Today I got the ignition circuit operating, including the kill switch. For an ignition lead, for lack of anything better, I simply used a length of un-grounded extension cord. I wrapped both wires together and added crimped terminals at each end. It works.   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 27 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Wednesday, August 29, 2018 - 09:53 pm:        Thank you to all who offered input. I ran the motor for the first time a couple days ago. It ran on prime on the very first flip, and first flip every time afterward. It took several more flips to get the carb adjusted such that it would continue to run. However, the main thing is, it runs, and surprisingly well. Cheers!   miro Senior Member Username: miro Post Number: 998 Registered: 11-2001 Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2018 - 10:23 am:        I took another look at your video - looks like you've got a "real" boat not just a "trailer queen". I'm in the final throes of finishing my boat and I'm looking forward to seeing your as you progress. The props look OK, seems that either one will do ( Left Hand or Right Hand) . I like the muffler. Miro   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 28 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Sunday, September 02, 2018 - 08:19 pm:        Thanks Miro. With the motor serviceable, the viability of the project is not in doubt. I will remove the motor this week so I can begin the hull conservation/restoration. I likely won't have the boat in the water til next spring. The fuel tank has over 100 years of crud in it. Lots Can anyone offer advice on how best to clean it? I am considering steaming it. Cheers!   spring Member Username: spring Post Number: 30 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Sunday, September 09, 2018 - 08:10 pm:        I got a bit of a surprise. The who, when, and why will never be known but someone tried to sabotage the Gidley. In prepping the motor to run, I tried to remove over 100 years of grunge from the tank. I wasn't really successful. Since I was anxious to get it going I rigged up a plastic tubing fuel line, running it through the lowest point in the bilge. As I ran the motor grunge accumulated at the low point in the line, but didn't reach the carb. Later I began to clean the tank in earnest, using varsol, then filtering it before using it again. I removed at least one heaping handful of sand from the tank, and I'm not done yet. Go figure?   spring Advanced Member Username: spring Post Number: 37 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 08:51 pm:        Can anyone tell me what kind of fuel consumption i can expect with the 2 1\2 hp Adams? Although I haven't yet measured it, the fuel tank likely holds 5 gallons. Cheers!   miro Senior Member Username: miro Post Number: 1006 Registered: 11-2001 Posted on Sunday, October 07, 2018 - 06:04 am:        I think you can expect that you'll burn about 1 litre per hour of running. In the old ( now new) fantail, the 2 cylinder St Lawrence used just over 1 litre on a 45 minute run. I rarely have more than half a tank of fuel in the boat - enough to "get going and go " but not so much that it goes stale. I now only use non-ethanol gas in my boats. With your 20 litre tank the gas will go stale before you use it up. Alternatively, if you use up the whole tank, you'll have spent many happy hours of "messing around" in your old boat. Miro   spring Advanced Member Username: spring Post Number: 39 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Sunday, October 07, 2018 - 12:32 pm:        Thanks Miro. your response is helpful. Cheers!   spring Advanced Member Username: spring Post Number: 45 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Sunday, November 04, 2018 - 09:57 am:        I have tried, but am unable to post a pic of the water pump. Posting pics is a PITA. I can't say I have a concern, but I do have a question regarding the tolerance between the crankshaft and the water pump connecting rod. If I were to guess I'd say there is perhaps .020 play between the two, enough that I can make it rattle. Is that a problem? What say you? Cheers!   miro Senior Member Username: miro Post Number: 1011 Registered: 11-2001 Posted on Sunday, November 04, 2018 - 07:06 pm:        A wobbly strap for the pump is not a problem usually - 20 thou play should be OK- give it a couple of drops of oil from time to time. There isn't much pressure - up or down - on the strap. Just make sure the packing around the piston of the pump doesn't leak. From the video I could see the hex sided nut at the bottom of the pump - if you haven't already, loosen that off until it comes off, and put 5 - 7 turns of graphite packing string around the pump shaft and tighten down that hex until snug - but not super tight. Pull the engine over by hand with primer valve open while you are making the final tightening of the hex at the pump to let the packing form a seal. Some day the whole thing will get badly worn, in which case the refurbishment is quite straight forward. But by that time , you'll have spent many happy hours and litres of gas messing around in the boat. miro ps the oars on the boat show a classic Muskoka detail - the shaft is elliptical in cross section where it meets the spoon   spring Advanced Member Username: spring Post Number: 47 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Monday, November 05, 2018 - 04:53 am:        Thanks again Miro. Pump is packed pretty much as you suggested. I love the oars. Cheers!   spring Advanced Member Username: spring Post Number: 49 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Tuesday, November 06, 2018 - 02:19 pm:        https://youtu.be/Vnsyy9NPKf0 For your viewing pleasure. An explanation is with the video. Cheers!   spring Advanced Member Username: spring Post Number: 50 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Saturday, November 17, 2018 - 08:00 pm:        I am curious about the greasers. My question pertains to how to properly use them? As I rotate the cap clockwise I can feel the resistance increase as grease gets to the bearing. I understand that how much tension to use will come with experience. What puzzles me is the conflicting information I have heard or read on how often to tweak the caps. The Adams manual does not speak to that. I have heard that the caps should be tweaked about every ten minutes in operation. Elsewhere I have heard they need to be tweaked only a couple of times per day. I get that tweaking them too often would result in nothing other than a mess and empty greasers. I also get that not enough could cause premature wear on the bearings. Presuming the motor itself, and especially the main bearings are in good shape, what say you?   miro Senior Member Username: miro Post Number: 1013 Registered: 11-2001 Posted on Sunday, November 18, 2018 - 05:22 pm:        There is a positive pressure inside the crankcase and as a result, the mixture of gas / oil seeks to find its easiest path out - and when it does so through the bearings in the case of worn bearings, it lubricates them. But in your case, the bearings are OK, so just a thin film is all that is needed. Every ten minutes is too often. I usually give my greasers 1/2 turn before starting, then after about 10-15 minutes of running another 1/2 turn and that's it for the next 30-445 minutes. By that time I usually remember to do it again, having soaked up the passing scene as I cruise slowly by. When your bearing wear you'll find little black spots inside the hull near the bearings - a sign that all is well (usually). It's only when your engine gets hard to start that you'll have to worry about re-doing them - you'll be old and grey by that time.. miro   spring Senior Member Username: spring Post Number: 51 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Sunday, November 18, 2018 - 09:13 pm:        Thanks again Miro. That is helpful. Cheers!   spring Senior Member Username: spring Post Number: 52 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Tuesday, December 11, 2018 - 03:39 pm:        Can anyone help me out WRT finding a Canadian source for 7 mm cloth covered ignition wire by the foot, and period correct for 1915? I will need terminal ends as well. Cheers!   bcm Senior Member Username: bcm Post Number: 94 Registered: 11-2009 Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2018 - 10:02 am:        Here is 7mm cloth covered ignition wire 46" length. Includes RAJ mechanical terminals. Price $ 10 Can plus Canadian postage. Contact me by email if interested. Barry www.goslowboat.com   spring Senior Member Username: spring Post Number: 53 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2018 - 10:40 am:        Thanks Barry. Cheers!   ernie Senior Member Username: ernie Post Number: 2499 Registered: 01-2002 Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2018 - 08:17 am:        The cloth covering that is used today is conductive. So cloth covered wire will not work if it gets wet. Wet is any kind of moisture. Including just overnight dew. There are several posts here by JB and myself about a summer rain storm and the only boats that ran afterwards were the ones with plain black spark plug wire. If you don't believe this simply pour some water on a piece then grab the wire in the middle when trying to start the engine. By the way if you really want some send me a direct e-mail to let me know how much and I will send you some. I also have plain black non resistor wire in stock. In fact if you want some cloth covered wire for show and some black so it will run no matter what the moisture status is send me 5 bucks and I will send you some of each. Cloth covered primary wire is OK. See pic below There is nothing more frustrating than an engine that won't run, especially when it is something simple. Hope this helps Ernie   spring Senior Member Username: spring Post Number: 54 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2018 - 08:32 am:        Thanks Ernie. Another valuable bit of intel to have. Based on what you wrote I will be sure to have two leads on board, one to go, and one for show. Barry is sending me a cloth one. I'll see how this all shakes out, but I may yet take you up on your kind offer for a black one. Cheers!   spring Senior Member Username: spring Post Number: 63 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2019 - 04:22 pm:        Moments ago while perusing a copy of the Adams catalogue for 1921, that they list a 12 inch 3 blade propellor with the 2 1/2 hp motor. My boat came with a bent 11 something, and a 10/8 3 blade. The previous owner assured me that 10/8 would be fine. What say you? Cheers!   jb_castagnos Senior Member Username: jb_castagnos Post Number: 1411 Registered: 07-2002 Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2019 - 07:14 pm:        The old rule of thumb was a propeller the size of the flywheel. Most of these propellers were square (12X12). More propeller options are available today, many boats plane, and engines are run a little faster when full throttle, running easier at part throttle, not lugging. Propeller blade designs aren't comparable, new designs being more efficient. If he said it worked I would try it.   spring Senior Member Username: spring Post Number: 64 Registered: 06-2018 Posted on Tuesday, January 29, 2019 - 09:26 pm:        Thanks JB Cheers!   richarddurgee Senior Member Username: richarddurgee Post Number: 4132 Registered: 11-2001 Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2019 - 01:43 pm:        * Spring I may have some history of the Adams engine, would need a good readable photo of the name plate. also any photos you want posted here-click on my name at left and email photos I will Size and post them. Great old marine engine and boat ! *   richarddurgee Senior Member Username: richarddurgee Post Number: 4133 Registered: 11-2001 Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2019 - 08:11 pm:        * Spring's photos 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Thats a rare old marine engine ! I'll see what I have on history of Adams Engine & Launch. *   richarddurgee Senior Member Username: richarddurgee Post Number: 4134 Registered: 11-2001 Posted on Friday, February 01, 2019 - 09:03 am:        * Gidley History http://www.searchmytree.com/Gidley%20ATSIP.php *   chris_spring Member Username: chris_spring Post Number: 9 Registered: 02-2019 Posted on Monday, April 22, 2019 - 01:57 pm:        Yesterday I decided to put the original carb float back in the motor so I could set it up. That float will be swapped out with an after market one shortly. I kept the boat captive since the ice on the river only went out last week, and the river is in flood. Taking the Gidley for a cruise would be at least one level of risk higher than necessary. Attached is a video. Finer adjustments can no doubt be made later but for now it starts easily first time every time, hot or cold. Cheers!   chris_spring Member Username: chris_spring Post Number: 10 Registered: 02-2019 Posted on Monday, April 22, 2019 - 06:57 pm:        Sorry. I couldn't get the video to upload. Ditto my luck with pics. Frustrating! Until there is a simpler. more effective way of doing so, I won't bother trying from now on. Cheers!   ernie Senior Member Username: ernie Post Number: 2509 Registered: 01-2002 Posted on Monday, April 22, 2019 - 07:35 pm:        Chris, You can't upload vids here. Put it up on youtube and then post a link is the best way. Hope this helps Ernie   chris_spring Member Username: chris_spring Post Number: 29 Registered: 02-2019 Posted on Friday, August 09, 2019 - 02:42 pm:        I have now put over 30 hrs on the motor. It starts well, and runs OK. Originally it had a bit of a blow by issue. After a few hours of run time that went away. With time I was able to get it set up where the fuel consumption was reasonable. However, I did occassionaly have a problem with overheating. Chasing it down made me crazy. Finally I sorted it. The issue was pump capacity. The water inlet on the block is quite small, as is the pump displacement. As the season progressed and the water temperature rose, the problem began. The solution was to be mindful of the fact that if one pushes the motor too hard, the pump cannot move enough water to provide adequate cooling. Throttle back a bit and everything will be fine. I offer this since it may be applicable to other motors under similar conditions.   chris_spring Member Username: chris_spring Post Number: 30 Registered: 02-2019 Posted on Friday, September 13, 2019 - 08:27 am:        For your viewing pleasure. It has taken me all summer to get the Adams running as well as it is now. Right now it is near perfect. Long may it continue. At the height of the difficulties I was having with it, despite advice to the contrary, out of frustration I was leaning heavily toward having the motor overhauled. Last week I received a passing comment via email that stated that air leakage past the main bearings could cause backfiring, rough running, and an erratic fuel mixture. That all makes sense. As it turns out, I believe that was an issue. I had been using the greasers regularly but perhaps too lightly. I re-calibrated the wrist action and together with an air horn adjustment, the motor now runs as smoothly as can be. What a treat to be cruising along in a boat built in 1915 powered by its original motor. Even at 104 years of age, the intention is that the boat get regular use. I have made every effort to run it at least twice a week throughout the summer. Not only did I need that time to sort issues, but since the boat is trailered, getting it wet a couple of times per week has helped keep the hull planks moist. It is scheduled to appear at an event in Westport, Ontario this weekend. It also generated a lot of interest at a show at Rideau Ferry in August. In a few short weeks it will likely be put away for the winter. Both the hull and the motor appear to be in such remarkable condition there will be very little maintenance to do. Barry. The info contained in your thumb drive, although pertaining specifically to the St. Lawrence motor, has proved invaluable, and is continually referred to. Cheers! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kau-Ja_HHk   chris_spring Advanced Member Username: chris_spring Post Number: 31 Registered: 02-2019 Posted on Thursday, October 17, 2019 - 11:15 am:        Two points. The Gidley did appear at Westport and much to my surprise came away with a silver plate award for Most Original, and a certificate for Best Preserved. So far I've been running premium fuel through it with a 25:1 fuel:oil ratio. It has an Otto synthetic carb float. My question is, is premium fuel necessary to prevent deterioration of the float? Cheers!   bcm Senior Member Username: bcm Post Number: 117 Registered: 11-2009 Posted on Friday, October 18, 2019 - 09:57 am:        Chris, I suggest you review SUBJECT 12 on the thumb drive. Since SUBJECT 12 was written ethanol free gasoline is readily available in Ontario, Can Tire premium, Shell premium and others. I always use ethanol free gasoline.(also for garden tools) Barry   chris_spring Advanced Member Username: chris_spring Post Number: 32 Registered: 02-2019 Posted on Friday, October 18, 2019 - 02:34 pm:        Thanks Barry. I've read Subject 12. Like you I use ethanol free premium is all of my small motors. I guess I'll stick with it for the Adams. If it works, don't mess with it. Cheers!   bcm Senior Member Username: bcm Post Number: 118 Registered: 11-2009 Posted on Friday, October 18, 2019 - 05:29 pm:        Chris, Now that you have mastered your old marine engine, you may be interested in understanding how a Kitchen Rudder overcomes all the maneuverability issues associated with your direct connected engine. Kitchen Rudder was invented 1914, later than your engine build. Here is a video link of interest. https://youtu.be/2R-AO3nZpyo Barry   chris_spring Advanced Member Username: chris_spring Post Number: 33 Registered: 02-2019 Posted on Friday, October 18, 2019 - 06:20 pm:        Hello again Barry. I came across your video on the Kitchen rudder several years ago. I was quite intrigued. However, I'll keep the Gidley as original as possible. It was never fitted with a Kitchen rudder. WRT the Adams, not often do I switch it from forward to reverse on the fly. Seldom is that necessary. In approaching a dock, I throttle it to idle. I'll switch the ignition off, then as it the engine is about to stop, I'll switch it back on, then off again. That is not unilke what was done with WWI fighter aircraft fitted with rotary engines. In my case each time I switch the ignition back on, the flow of water gives me good rudder control at very slow speed. It works perfectly. That's alot better than approaching the dock, switching off, then hoping for the best as I lose rudder control. Cheers!   chris_spring Senior Member Username: chris_spring Post Number: 67 Registered: 02-2019 Posted on Friday, September 04, 2020 - 02:57 pm:        I am currently using a 25:1 fuel:oil mix in the Adams. The Adams engine manual recommends 32:1 or 1 pint to every 5 gallons. I am using SAE30 non detergent oil. Understanding that in 1915 fuels were different than what we use today, can anyone recommend going to 32:1? I expect I know what the answer will be but I ask anyway. 25:1 is messy at best, and results in a lot of spark plug fouling. Cheers!   miro Senior Member Username: miro Post Number: 1100 Registered: 11-2001 Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2020 - 09:05 am:        As I understand it, the early gasoline fuel was closer to the naptha fuel that is now used as "camp fuel" - very volatile and thin. The source for this info is buried here in the ancient part of the OME web site, plus Stan Grayson's books. Gasoline was supposedly a waste product from the refining process for kerosene / lamp oil. If that is so, then you can understand the need for 25:1 mix. But I'm not sure that a 32:1 mix would be any less messier than 25:1. But interestingly, I do not get much if any plug fouling with the 25:1 mix either on my copper jacket DisPro or the 2 cylinder St Lawrence. JB - you're probably a bit busy with "Sally" , but when you get a chance, what experience do you all in Louisiana have ? I know that older ( and worn) engines work better with 25:1 . Miro   jb_castagnos Senior Member Username: jb_castagnos Post Number: 1459 Registered: 07-2002 Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2020 - 06:36 pm:        The Lockwood Ash tags call for a pint to 5 gallons, we usually run a pint to 4 gallons just to be on the safe side, that should be 32:1. L-A recommended Mobil Gargoyle, Nadler had the same mixture on their tags with Texaco oil. These tags were the domed timer cover, usually missing. I asked Mr. Nadler how they made the covers, he said "I don't know, Texaco supplied them.   chris_spring Senior Member Username: chris_spring Post Number: 70 Registered: 02-2019 Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2020 - 07:59 pm:        Thank you both for your replies. cheers!   chris_spring Senior Member Username: chris_spring Post Number: 112 Registered: 02-2019 Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2021 - 01:17 pm:        Thanks to the input from all of you, it is safe to say that I now have the wrinkles worked out of the Adams. It is running perfectly. Probably my single biggest issue was setting up the carb. Miro came up with the idea of changing the needle valve tip angle. It helps. That really came into its own as a result of Audie providing the 12 pitch prop. The prop is about as perfect a match as I'll likely find. The other thing that made a huge difference was a comment somewhere from JB. JB cautioned to make small mixture control adjustments, then wait. What I could not appreciate was how small,and how long? It now seems that I was making too large adjustments of both mixture and air valve and likely not waiting long enough to see the result before adjusting further. JB. You saved the day. By slowing down and making much finer adjustments, I was able to puzzle out the mixture/air valve/ignition timing such that the Adams now runs far better than it ever has. Until now I had no idea how smoothly the Adams could run. In the past I was always adjusting to correct a problem. In essence, the only time it was right was when it was going through it. Now, again thanks to JB no more adjustments are required. It is exactly right. And Audie's prop as I mentioned, as it turns out is a near perfect match. Without that I'd be still flailing around. Cheers!   narrabay2 Senior Member Username: narrabay2 Post Number: 181 Registered: 10-2019 Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2021 - 09:31 pm:        chris, must be satisfying to get more "in tune" with your rig. can you tell us more about the prop and result? have u used a hand held tacho or otherwise, has your speed improved? I always suspected your boat was still a little under propped. the fantail really cooks, and its probably slightly over-propped (how I like it) never used the handheld tach on the sea trials last November, but the tach project will tell a lot when underway (soon hopefully). video would be nice too if you can manage it   chris_spring Senior Member Username: chris_spring Post Number: 113 Registered: 02-2019 Posted on Thursday, June 10, 2021 - 07:56 am:        I have a hand held digital tach I use. Wide open and lightly loaded the Adams will turn up about 850 rpm. If I back it off a bit there is little appreciable difference in hull speed. I run it not more than 800 rpm. It will also idle smoothly at probably 200 rpm. It starts easily first try every time. What is also interesting is that secured to the dock, when I start it, the prop cavitates slightly. That allows me to warm up the engine a bit before putting a load on it. As soon as I am sure it is good to go, I cast off. As I do, the propeller quits cavitating, the engine rpm decreases slightly, and away we go. Cool! In 2018 I started with the battered 10x8 prop that came with the boat. I was told that the original prop and shaft were damaged during the salvage operation. The previous owner threw on the 10x8 and said that otta work. Right off the bat I knew it was not enough. It gave me about 4 mph. The next year I swapped that for a 10x10 and got about an extra mph. The 10 pitch prop was still not enough. I ran it with not much throttle opening. Then I got an 11x12 from Audie. It had some damage so I sent it out for overhaul. The overhaul wasn't cheap but it gave me a pristine prop. I think it was money well spent. With the 11x12 and about 800 rpm, as memory serves I'm getting just over 6 mph. About the only thing I need to remember is to not try to outrun the cops with it. The added advantage of the new prop is that I can run the engine at full throttle and not worry about overspeeding it, or I can back it off a bit and burn somewhere around 2 litres per hour. If you go back up to the top of the page you'll see that when I bought the Gidley I knew little about these engines. This whole thing has been a learning experience. Aside from you guys, I really had no one to turn to. I didn't even have an idea what a properly running Adams should even sound like. I sometimes wondered if some of the problems I was having simply went with the territory with engines built in 1915. What I am clear on is that the boat was undoubtedltly laid up because the family just got sick of dealing with it. Having come through all of that you can imagine how impressed I am with what a great little engine the Adams is now that it is running properly. The key now that it is running so well is not to mess with it. In fact it is running so well, I can see many hours of trouble free operation in my future. (famous last words) Cheers!   rad_shop New member Username: rad_shop Post Number: 1 Registered: 03-2022 Posted on Wednesday, March 02, 2022 - 12:27 pm:        I have parts for an Adam's Launch Engine that I am looking to find a good home for or a project for. Piston, Crank shaft, Cylinder. They are looking for a good home and some TLC to restorer. Can someone point me in the right direction?

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