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Message |
    
mmb
New member
Username: mmb
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2017
| | Posted on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 06:44 pm: | 
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Hello
I am new to the board to old Marine engines and could use some help. I have just been given a single cylinder marine 2 stroke engine by a friend. Sounds like it last ran 56 years ago, After looking through pics on this site, I believe it to be a Mullins 3 HP engine, but it has no nameplate. Attached are a few pics. I have gotten the buzz box working , timing handle working, replaced the gasket where the water pump goes to the cylinder head, cleaned the pump( it now pumps water), cleaned the grease cups and repacked with grease and forced out the old grease, took the Kingston carb apart and cleaned inside and tested float seat. The engine has great compression and I am ready to apply some gas. Can anyone enlighten me to needle valve setting, timing settings and throttle settings for start up and running.
Thank you |
mmb
New member
Username: mmb
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2017
| | Posted on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 06:58 pm: |
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Hello
I thought I attached pics, but I guess my pics are too large (3+meg), Not sure how to change that unless I take new pics and reduce clarity. |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1343
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 07:05 pm: |
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I would start with 1 1/2 turns out on the carb, choke it and pull it over until you see gas dripping. It should start, if it's rich it will continue to run, probably 4 cycling and rough, turn the needle in until it smooth out. When adjusting two cycles there's some lag time, you have to clear the mixture from the crankcase, it's easy to over correct, if it sneezes and dies open it back up. Sneezing is a sign of lack of fuel. A dry crankcase will require extra fuel, once things are wet mixture will change. The timer should be TDC when straight forward, moving against rotation in either direction is advancing. If it has good compression it should start on the bounce, put the timer at a 45 away from you, pull the flywheel towards you and it should start in the opposite direction. This is the principle of reversing the engine. Kill the ignition, advance fully, when engine has almost stopped, connect ignition. It hits high timing and reverses. |
mmb
New member
Username: mmb
Post Number: 3
Registered: 12-2017
| | Posted on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 07:42 pm: |
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Thank you for the quick reply JB |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1344
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 08:01 pm: |
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Easiest way I've found to post pics is to take them with the phone, e-mail them to myself in the medium size, no problem posting. |
mmb
Member
Username: mmb
Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2017
| | Posted on Friday, December 08, 2017 - 08:30 pm: |
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Lets try it again  |
richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 4046
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 01:09 am: |
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*
The engine is approx 1910 Roberts !
Mullins was a metal boat maker and
put their Badge on the Roberts engines !
Go to search above - Info and photos there.
Nice looking Old Marine Engine
* |
ldobbins
Senior Member
Username: ldobbins
Post Number: 212
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 11:38 am: |
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Seasons Greetings aqueous gear heads,
I have had a 1910 Mullins motor here for many years. It is a 3 HP Roberts. One of the very few 2 stroke motors I have. I always figured that someone would need it for a Mullins project.
Cheers,
Lew "The Left Coast Sterling Guy" |
ldobbins
Senior Member
Username: ldobbins
Post Number: 213
Registered: 12-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 11:39 am: |
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jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1345
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 12:01 pm: |
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Don't depend on the oiler for lubrication, pre mix oil and gas. |
mmb
Member
Username: mmb
Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2017
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 01:05 pm: |
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ldobbins, your Mullins looks identical to mine, except for the carb/carb mount. I might be able to acquire the old gearbox as well, but I'll pursue that after I get it running.
I see yours has a crank, Is it necessary to use one for starting ?
 |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1346
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 08:05 pm: |
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A crank is not necessary on these engines, if you use one be very careful not to crank against high timing. When I got my first Model T Ford an old timer saw me hand cranking it. He said "when you bought a Model T they would fit you for a cast". |
mmb
Member
Username: mmb
Post Number: 6
Registered: 12-2017
| | Posted on Saturday, December 09, 2017 - 08:46 pm: |
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I got it to run today after a lot of fiddling(forgot that when you turn the flywheel by hand that it fires and runs the other direction,so you have to turn the timing handle the other direction), but there is fuel coming out of the connection of the carb to the manifold and fuel oil coming out of the case at the crank, and the exhaust is spraying black spots all over everything.....what a mess ! So I decided to go ahead and tear it down and begin the restoration. The crank is scarred a little and the Lower rod bearing looks well used. Also the conn rod looks like it might have been trued up with a sledge hammer at one point in its life. So next week , I will take the lower end and conn rod to Jason(engine builder) and see what he can do. Were these conn rods common to anything else or just for these engines? Jason has a crank welder that he can build the crank up and then grind it back down to proper size.The piston, rings and cylinder look beautiful,so that pleases me.While everything is apart I will clean'polish and paint as needed. Is Forest green the original color for my engine ? |
mmb
Member
Username: mmb
Post Number: 7
Registered: 12-2017
| | Posted on Sunday, December 10, 2017 - 01:16 pm: |
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I have another question. When I removed the piston from the head, the deflector at the top of the piston was on the intake/exhaust side of the cylinder. In looking at an old cutaway drawing, it appears that the deflector is on the opposite side. As I said prior, it appears work had been done in the past and is it possible that they rotated the piston 180 at the wrist pin . The bottom end of the conn rod is hinged to open/close on to the crank, with the bolt being accessed through the access plate on the opposite side of the intake/exhaust on the block. |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1347
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Monday, December 11, 2017 - 07:50 pm: |
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The deflector should face the transfer port, this should be opposite of the exhaust. |
mmb
Member
Username: mmb
Post Number: 8
Registered: 12-2017
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2017 - 01:10 pm: |
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Thank you JB. It was installed 180 out. |
