| Author |
Message |
    
dogstar01
New member
Username: dogstar01
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2017
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2017 - 05:34 am: | 
|
My olds Type H marine engine that I just finished restoring. My Plan is to put it in a boat eventually, and I was thinking of converting it to a dry exhaust with a closed loop cooling system. I was wondering if anyone here has done something similar and had any pointers? |
dogstar01
New member
Username: dogstar01
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2017
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2017 - 05:40 am: |
|
 |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 909
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2017 - 10:50 am: |
|
Closed loop cooling ( keel cooling system) is a good idea if you are running in salt water. It prevents the deposition of salt into the pores of the cast iron. It's a long term issue but after the work you've put into the engine , I think you'd like to protect it.
With a relatively small engine a simple loop of copper piping about half to 2/3 of the hull length should be OK. Most folks use a 1/2 in ( 12 mm) ID pipe.
The dry exhaust might need a muffler to make cruising a bit more comfortable.
I on the other hand love the sound of an old engine at slow speed, cruising along on a nice summer's day - I just remove my hearing aids :-}
miro |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1306
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2017 - 12:48 pm: |
|
A second pump to provide the cooling water for the exhaust works well, you could friction drive a gear pump on the flywheel, let the raw water go to the exhaust. |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1307
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2017 - 12:50 pm: |
|
Looking at the pictures your flywheel is covered, you could drive it at the coupling. |
rbprice
Senior Member
Username: rbprice
Post Number: 570
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2017 - 03:59 pm: |
|
At the risk of seeming to be persickady, there is no standard US pipe that has a 1/2 in. dimension.
1/2 in. pipe has a .840 in. OD and a .622 in. ID and a length just over 6 ft. has an outside area of 1 sq. ft.
And your engine is just marvelous. What is its age and HP? |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1308
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, May 14, 2017 - 07:57 pm: |
|
I believe he was thinking of rigid tubing, that's what I've seen used. |
dogstar01
New member
Username: dogstar01
Post Number: 3
Registered: 05-2017
| | Posted on Monday, May 15, 2017 - 12:08 am: |
|
Micro, Thanks very much, that's precisely what I was looking for. I was thinking about putting a more traditional muffler in the exhaust system or doing something like what jb_castagnos suggested with running a pump off the flywheel.
jb_castagnos, the flywheel isn't covered just blends in with the rest of the engine (you can see it below the magneto it's a very large flywheel). Thanks for the suggestion of running the pump off the flywheel with a friction coupling of some description. I do have an old gear pump that I could use.
rbprice, I was planning to use half inch copper pipe for the cooling system. thank you for the compliment.
The engine itself was made in Maryborough, Queensland Australia. It's OHV, displaces 350cc-ish with the manufacturer listing it making 3-5HP and uses mainly Holden Grey motor parts (a straight six engine made by holden Australia). Nearest I can tell it was made late 50's early 60's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RM8xt_fRX80 <- here is a video of it running, apologies for the vertical video/ lighting, it was very overcast when I shot this video. |
senojn
Senior Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 137
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, May 18, 2017 - 08:41 pm: |
|
Hi Callum
What a nice job.
If you don't have it I think you can get the Old's brochure on the net.
I successfully tried a heat exchanger (ebay Aust.)$100 some years ago on a Hardman single.
Used a pump from the shaft circulating coolant via a plastic holding tank .
Neil |
Chrisbaillie
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, February 05, 2018 - 05:33 am: |
|
Hi - year of manufacture is after the �H� on tag ie H71 is 1971 |
robert
Senior Member
Username: robert
Post Number: 938
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Monday, February 05, 2018 - 11:20 am: |
|
Looks like a very solid little unit and a nice restoration. I hope you've got anti-freeze in it at least if it is not in use again? Reason being, if it was salt-water cooled for any length of time the salt is in the iron and will build up thick scale in the water jackets if allowed to dry out. Dry iron rusting? Yes, and faster than iron kept damp. Will let a chemist explain that one, but it is a fact proved by long observation in the case of salt-water cooled engines. Left dry the salt will pull in moisture from the air and grow until it literally cracks the jackets off in chunks. But maybe you knew all that already; can't say it too often though. Keep them full all the way to the top with stubs of clear tubing sticking up so you can see when the level of the anti-freeze gets too low. |
dogstar01
Member
Username: dogstar01
Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2017
| | Posted on Saturday, February 10, 2018 - 12:05 am: |
|
Robert, I keep it filled up with antifreeze to prevent the rust issue. I well know the effects of not taking care of the water jacket so it is a constant concern, don't want the block cracking on me.
thanks for bringing it up though, you are right in that it cannot be mentioned enough. |
