| Author |
Message |
    
scott_n
Senior Member
Username: scott_n
Post Number: 264
Registered: 02-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 01:21 pm: | 
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First let me say you are better working around the flywheel instead of removing it  this will work well with tapered shaft. Clean nut with wire brush and heat using a candle press it ageist the nut till it starts to melt and almost smoke |
scott_n
Senior Member
Username: scott_n
Post Number: 265
Registered: 02-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 01:31 pm: |
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 if it is a tough one a impact gun works well   then with a big puller lode flywheel with presser  and tap the end of puller |
scott_n
Senior Member
Username: scott_n
Post Number: 266
Registered: 02-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 01:51 pm: |
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Note a big puller is not recommend for the out side of spooked flywheels. And if you don't have a big puller a good square rap with a hammer using a nut at the end of the threads should work. Just like JB sad on a tapered shaft. And if you have the weight of the engine is supporter you don't have to worry about bending the crankshaft. |
scott_n
Senior Member
Username: scott_n
Post Number: 267
Registered: 02-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 01:55 pm: |
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Then off to the electrologist bath for cleaning.  |
narrabay
Senior Member
Username: narrabay
Post Number: 65
Registered: 02-2016
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 02:19 pm: |
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Thanks Scott, and those are great shots! I think the nut wont be an issue, its clean and not rusted . A big puller, heating the hub a little and care it will either pop, or not. I dont intend to push the issue. But in my experience (my first teenaged job was working on salt water outboards), they either pop, or they dont, and they usually do. |
scott_n
Senior Member
Username: scott_n
Post Number: 268
Registered: 02-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 03:02 pm: |
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 this type of cleaning will only leave the clean iron behind and not remove any of the artifact. like blasting or grinding and will only need a light wire brushing to prep for paint. Remember this process only works line of site the cathode has to sea the anode.and will not go behind studs or threads like wax or penetrating oil. |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2252
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 06, 2016 - 03:19 pm: |
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Scott,
Your were lucky! Pulling like that is the best and easiest way to ruin any flywheel spokes or not!
Narrabay Do NOT ever heat any part of the flywheel as cracks in the hub are almost always the outcome.
Hope this helps
Ernie |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2253
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, April 07, 2016 - 07:15 am: |
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By the way this is a safety issue. It is the cracks you don't see that get you. |
narrabay
Senior Member
Username: narrabay
Post Number: 66
Registered: 02-2016
| | Posted on Thursday, April 07, 2016 - 11:14 am: |
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thanks ernie. interesting. would you use a big puller? how would you approach, no heat, puller, light rap on the center bolt? remove crankshaft and use a press? what woukl you say is best approach?
thanks! |
narrabay
Senior Member
Username: narrabay
Post Number: 67
Registered: 02-2016
| | Posted on Thursday, April 07, 2016 - 07:03 pm: |
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oops just read the part where ernie says
NO HEAT
NO PULLER
So still looking for what Ernie you would do in your shop to get flywheel off...
thanks!
}}} |
marion
Member
Username: marion
Post Number: 14
Registered: 03-2013
| | Posted on Thursday, April 07, 2016 - 08:11 pm: |
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Consider using the puller not to pull on the flywheel, but only to align the pulling screw with the crankshaft. Adjust the puller until the puller is snug and the pulling screw is straight with the tapered portion of the crankshaft. For several days, periodically squirt BP Blaster at the shaft flywheel junction and wait for chemistry to work. When you�ve run out of patience, wack the head end of the screw with a large hammer, e.g., 5 lbs. The impulse produced will result in the flywheel and puller landing in a jumbled pile.
An analogous approach was used a century ago on Model T Fords to remove rear wheel hubs from tapered drive shafts. |
narrabay
Senior Member
Username: narrabay
Post Number: 68
Registered: 02-2016
| | Posted on Thursday, April 07, 2016 - 10:38 pm: |
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thanks marion. sounds like your suggesting LIGHT but constant pressure from a puller with PB soaking into the joint for a long period of time...
also hopefully Ernie will chime in with his approach too... |
johnoxley
Senior Member
Username: johnoxley
Post Number: 156
Registered: 04-2010
| | Posted on Friday, April 08, 2016 - 06:28 am: |
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Noting taper on this shaft looks fairly steep, hence flywheel was released OK. From grim personal experience I once ruined a flywheel that was mounted by a shallow (Morse?) taper. Did not support close to shaft, rather at rim. Took 16 tons + heat to push crankshaft out of rusted flywheel but flywheel hub was distorted and unusable. Next time arranged heavy contrivance to grip at boss. Still took 16 tons but flywheel and shaft undamaged. |
scott_n
Senior Member
Username: scott_n
Post Number: 269
Registered: 02-2008
| | Posted on Friday, April 08, 2016 - 08:21 am: |
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Ernie Thanks for pointing that out please note in my first picture we are only heating the frozen nut on the out side of the starter pulley and not the flywheel. the flywheel came off with light presser and a light tap on the end of puller. Yes the first two pictures could have bin deceiving. |
scott_n
Senior Member
Username: scott_n
Post Number: 270
Registered: 02-2008
| | Posted on Friday, April 08, 2016 - 08:22 am: |
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