| Author |
Message |
    
warrene77
Member
Username: warrene77
Post Number: 24
Registered: 04-2013
| | Posted on Monday, November 30, 2015 - 03:22 pm: | 
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I have brought the engine to running condition (almost). Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHslPmjtOsg
She will run for about 40 seconds and then quits. I'm fairly sure this is because of air leakage around the main bearings. The bearings look to be in good condition.
The original gaskets measured .047. I made new gaskets .0625 and when I tightened the crankcase bolts the crankshaft was clamped, so I added another gasket of .015625 thickness (grand total .078). The crankshaft has no "up/down" movement and is now free and the bearings get grease (NLGI grade 2).
After it last ran, I plugged exhaust, intake, and primers and applied air into the aft spark plug hole (schrader valve and bicycle pump); soapy water made bubbles at the mains at both ends.
I have ordered some NLGI grade 3 grease to try.
Should I add more gasket thickness so there is more room for grease in the mains?
Any suggestions or comments are very welcome.
Thank you,
Warren |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2182
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Monday, November 30, 2015 - 05:19 pm: |
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Warren,
I am confused that engine ran good when Dick D had it.
If there is no crankshaft movement the crankshaft is most likely tight enough.
Out of curiosity how much air pressure did you put in it?
When running the crankcase compression is most likely less than 10 PSI.
If the crankshaft turns freely and there is no movement up and down I would leave it alone.
Be VERY careful with grade 3 grease. I almost ruined my Gray U single cylinder with grade 3 grease. I had to disassemble the engine to get it out after I realized my mistake.
After looking at your video and reading your description I am wondering if the one gasket in the carb is good. Remember Schebler carbs ONLY have 1 gasket in them and that is in the center of the float bowl cover.
Hope this helps
Ernie |
warrene77
Member
Username: warrene77
Post Number: 25
Registered: 04-2013
| | Posted on Monday, November 30, 2015 - 07:19 pm: |
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Thank you Ernie,
Air pressure:
Surely less than 10 PSI. I can't get it to register (125 PSI gauge) and I can't hear it leak. It does blow bubbles in soapy water at mains at both ends (center bearing must surely leak).
Carb.:
It runs my Gray U single just fine but I will replace the gasket and try again (I understand that 2 port and 3 port engines pull fuel/air mix differently). If I remove the carb. and turn the engine over there is very little suction observed at the intake.
Thanks again,
Warren |
solarrog
Senior Member
Username: solarrog
Post Number: 610
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Monday, November 30, 2015 - 07:29 pm: |
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I have seen 2 cycle engines run poorly or not at all if the exhaust ports are plugged with carbon. Have they been checked? |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1126
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Monday, November 30, 2015 - 08:42 pm: |
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Good main bearings will be hard to grease, when the grease hits the shaft the greaser will stop turning. Have you tried adjusting the fuel while it's running? It looks like the timer could be moving a little in the video, could be my imagination. The timer will try to go with engine rotation, retarding the timing as it moves. Did you take the cap off of the needle to see if the fuel in the bowl is dropping? |
warrene77
Member
Username: warrene77
Post Number: 26
Registered: 04-2013
| | Posted on Monday, November 30, 2015 - 09:42 pm: |
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solarrog, Exhaust ports are clean. Thanks
JB, Alemite fittings in place of grease cups for now. I can pump grease in all three easily. I'll try adjusting the fuel next time - leaner?
I will clamp the timer lever next time.
I'll try taking the cap off of the needle next time also (I do know the float is free!).
Thanks again,
Warren |
warrene77
Member
Username: warrene77
Post Number: 27
Registered: 04-2013
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 15, 2015 - 05:16 pm: |
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She runs! Starts easily and runs well - until I shut her down. I made all new crankcase gaskets/shims (a little thicker) and stayed with grade 2 grease.
Regardless of what I have done, I think the greatest mechanic of all came in and fixed it when I wasn't looking!!!
JB, good eye, the timer was vibrating into the retard direction and I can take care of that.
Also, she won't re-start after running. I shut down via ignition and I wonder if I should shut the fuel off instead?
Next step is to plumb the cooling water system.
If all continues to go well I get to build a nice cradle and cart, clean up the brass, and do a good paint job.
Thank all who gave suggestions and comments! Bottom line; this is fun!
Thanks again,
Warren |
jim_parrott
Senior Member
Username: jim_parrott
Post Number: 101
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2015 - 08:45 am: |
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Warren,
Two strokes are often hard to restart if too rich.. Try turning over with primer cups open, if heavy fuel mist is coming out of primer cups it is too rich. If so try leaning a quarter turn on mixture screw, continue turning over with cups open til heavy mist is light and or engine sounds like it wants to start. Close primer cups and try again.. |
squareroot
Advanced Member
Username: squareroot
Post Number: 37
Registered: 09-2013
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2015 - 12:39 pm: |
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Sounds like a valuable tip!! |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2193
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 16, 2015 - 01:59 pm: |
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Also when it is rich and finally starts to fire after turning several times with the priming cups open it will be a light sneeze.
When the mixture is close to correct it will have a crisp or sharp much louder sneeze. Close the priming cups then. |
