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kingfisher
New member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Thursday, January 17, 2013 - 11:56 pm: | 
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I recently bought a putt putt to restore including a Simplex as shown below. The engine was apparently restored 14 years ago and has not been started since. I've removed it from the boat but what next?
As I know nothing about these engines a few questions come to mind. Does anyone have a copy of a manual? Is this the same as the 6/7 model currently available?
It turns over smoothly by hand and the FNR gearbox works. Should I just try to start it, or perform various checks first? All thoughts, comments and ideas appreciated.
Mark |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 124
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Friday, January 18, 2013 - 12:48 am: |
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Hi Mark, Your photo shows the key indicators to confirm that yours is the 'current' model i.e. the gearbox shape and type of water pump (gear type rather than the old piston pump). Either way parts are still available from Simplex Marine Engines at Seven Hills NSW(should you need any). Before trying to start your motor I'd suggest changing the sump oil,flushing the fuel line with clean unleaded (no ethanol), remove the top of the carby and check that the float operates correctly (see recent entries re Blaxland motors) - the float should sit horizontal (not sink). Also remove the spark plug, check the gap and clean it and check for good spark plug lead connections. Also check the hoses and connections for cooling water (if starting out of the water set up the inlet hose in a bucket full of water). Then have a try at starting the motor. Yours has a starter/generator but a Simplex will 'rock' start quite happily after some priming (rocking the flywheel back and forth on compression while choking the air intake and with the throtle set at about 1/4. I sometimes cheat a little by spraying a dewatering spray (any brand)into the cylinder via the spark plug hole to assist in priming). There is a YouTube video available that shows an older style twin Simplex being started (without showing the preparation)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLYCdt3fxjk Good luck and please let us know how you get on. Laurie |
kingfisher
New member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Monday, April 29, 2013 - 01:46 am: |
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Checking the dipstick revealed oil like caramel icecream so the engine is on the bench now and in pieces. I assume the water came from condensation as the boat was stored outside - maybe not covered too well. All the water passages are blocked, so I guess I'll pour in some hydrochloric acid to fix those (?). Bearings are rusted and worn so will need replacing. Can't get the gearbox apart yet as the flange is very stuck. I'm hoping for no nasty surprises inside there. Simplex in Sydney have been very helpful with a gasket kit and manual. Looks like another call for a few more parts. |
marks
Senior Member
Username: marks
Post Number: 150
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Monday, April 29, 2013 - 05:16 pm: |
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Do not let the cylinder, head and exhaust manifold stay dry. Because the water passages are blocked, corrosion will continue unabated and lead to cracking. They may be already, if you wire brush to a shiny finish you can check.
Store them in a high PH solution between work sessions. You can buy "Washing Soda", looks like crystals in a plastic bag, from the supermarket, mix with water. If you can get a PH test kit (aquarium shop may work or test strips from a chemical supplier) aim for a PH of 11 or so. Don't use caustic soda as some people do, it's very dangerous if splashed in eye(s), the washing soda is safer but still wear eye protection.
DO NOT use hydrochloric acid. Either clean out the water jackets as best you can (plenty of ideas on this site) and then use phosphoric acid from Supercheap Autos or preferably setup some other method such as electrolysis.
You can get new heads and cylinders but they are expensive. The "ball" exhausts are difficult to find in good condition.
Good luck with it all.
Mark S. |
kingfisher
New member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 3
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 30, 2013 - 05:39 am: |
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Thanks Mark,
I've managed to clear all the passages with a selection of screwdrivers, well enough that water flows through easily. I had already used hydrochloric on the head but will get some phosphoric tomorrow. I assume the concern with hydrochloric is safety?
There doesn't appear to be any cracking.
I managed to press the rear flange and front clutch off the gearbox and remove a circlip behind the rear bearing. But it still won't quite come apart. So I assume there is something still to be pressed? |
kingfisher
Member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 4
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Friday, May 03, 2013 - 12:12 am: |
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Well I got the gearbox apart - 2 very rusty bearings to be replaced. So I'll be ringing Simplex today with quite a list of parts to be purchased. |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 240
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Sunday, May 05, 2013 - 05:42 pm: |
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The bearings are a standard size and available
from any bearing supplier.(and alot cheaper)
The motor you have there is as laurie says is
the later 6/7 Thrustmatic, which also had the
larger bore diameter and aluminium piston.
The water pump on yours is a Rollermatic made
by Simplex and instead of having gears, it had
4 1 inch by 1/2 inch rubber rollers set inside
the armature on the drive. These pumps work very
well,and were not as susceptible to wear as the
earlier gear pumps,(sucking up grit etc ) |
kingfisher
Member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 5
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2013 - 04:55 am: |
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A timely post Todd. I was just about to ring and order parts. So thanks, I'll get the bearings elsewhere. I've still had to order a couple of bushes, con rod and gaskets. They're not sure if all items are available - just waiting for a call back. |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 241
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2013 - 05:06 pm: |
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what is wrong with your conrod that you have to get
a new one? |
kingfisher
Member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 6
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Monday, May 06, 2013 - 06:13 pm: |
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The big end bearing is worn and doesn't appear to be easily replaceable. As Simplex don't offer the bearing as an individual part I thought I would see what they charge for a new one. |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 242
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2013 - 05:32 pm: |
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They will probably want your left nut for one.
You can do a "cut and shut" on yours and bring it
back to spec. Carefully file or machine small
amounts of material off the mating faces of the
big end cap and rod bottom,keep fitting the rod
back on the crank until it will just hold itself
horizontal in the 3 oclock position,and when you
lightly tap it with your finger it will fall to
the vertical.
Be mindful to make sure the surfaces stay true
to each other. (not difficult ,just take your
time. make sure you have a really good file ie
12 inch flat 2nd cut or mill barstard
Todd |
david_doyle
Member
Username: david_doyle
Post Number: 12
Registered: 03-2013
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 07, 2013 - 09:11 pm: |
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Hope you can get things sorted, would love to see the restoration process continue. |
kingfisher
Member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 7
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Friday, May 10, 2013 - 06:42 am: |
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On closer inspection, the journal is scored as well. I might take crank and con rod into Southcott and see if they can machine the surfaces to match. Unless someone can suggest somebody else in Adelaide? |
kingfisher
Member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 8
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Friday, May 31, 2013 - 04:32 am: |
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Picked up new bearings for the clutch and crank at a local supplier - thanks for the tip Todd.
Took the crank and con rod in to Southcott this arvo. They're happy to help. Does anyone know the recommended oil clearance for the con rod bearing?
Mark |
kingfisher
Member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 9
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Thursday, June 06, 2013 - 05:35 am: |
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I rang Simplex and they tell me 1.5 to 2 thou is the go. Reassembly soon I hope.
Mark |
kingfisher
Member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 15
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2013 - 07:10 am: |
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Well, it's a slow process, cos I'm working on the boat as well. But the gearbox, clutch and crankcase have been reassembled with all new bearings.
I'm currently cleaning up the various brass bits, removing layers of paint and muck.
It looks like I'll need a set of seals and maybe a float for the D model carby. Any ideas on a local(ish) supplier for these? Or non-local I guess. |
kingfisher
Member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 16
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Sunday, August 25, 2013 - 05:37 am: |
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Still cleaning stuff up prior to the final re-assemble.
As can be seen in the original photo the flywheel was VERY rusty on one side. This has all been removed and today was painting day.
I had the flywheel on a broom stick between a couple of supports and turned it slowly to paint. It was noticeably unbalanced. I guess this is to be expected to counter balance the crank etc.
But how do I check the balance? And how best to adjust it? And how critical is it all anyway?
I'm sure there's a silly question or 2 in all that but .....
Mark |
kingfisher
Member
Username: kingfisher
Post Number: 17
Registered: 01-2013
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 08, 2014 - 07:19 pm: |
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Everything is back together and she runs  . No oil, fuel or water leaks - pretty happy with that! And all a lot cleaner and shinier.
At low revs all is quite smooth, but at higher revs she bounces around a bit. The engine is sitting in a frame which sits on the bench with just a couple of clamps to secure everything - so not particularly well mounted.
But it takes me back to the earlier question on balancing the flywheel. The heavy flaking rust must have once been good metal. How do I go about re-balancing it?
Mark
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