| Author |
Message |
    
richarddurgee
| | Posted on Saturday, February 08, 2003 - 12:34 pm: | 
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I don't see to many of these engines around,although their 1911 catalog claims that they had sold over 100,000 ? This is a
model G 6Hp with oiler, it's a big one about
250 lbs. Carb is a schebler its off because of moving eng.
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Bill Schaller
| | Posted on Saturday, February 08, 2003 - 01:26 pm: |
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I will post some more tonight, right now I am having way too much fun replacing my well tank.
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Bill Schaller
| | Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2003 - 01:20 am: |
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Bill Schaller
| | Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2003 - 01:36 am: |
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picture 1, 15 hp canadian fm, C15255
picture 2, 3 cylinder model G sn 2942
picture 3, 2 cyl model G, at a show
picture 4, 2 cyl model G, at a show
picture 5,6, 1 cylinder model E, canadian fm.
and a few catalog pages tossed in.
if anyone ever gets the proper oiler cast for the model G's, I would sure like one for my 3 cylinder.
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Bill Schaller
| | Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2003 - 01:43 am: |
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and, just to show that you can get lucky, I went to a engine swap meet in iowa, and it was dead, I thought a waste of my time, and then this jumped up and bit my ankle. how about a 3 coil fairbanks morse ignition for my 3 cylinder?
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andrew
| | Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2003 - 10:07 am: |
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Richard and Bill,
Great photos and catalog images. Bill, that triple coil is a nice find...
I spoke with a guy in Philadelphia last week who has a single cylinder Fairbanks-Morse marine engine in his garage, his only engine. I gave him the web site address, so hopefully he will find this conversation and post info on his engine here.
This single cylinder Fairbanks-Morse was sold on our classifieds not long ago:
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Capt. A.J.
| | Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2003 - 04:09 pm: |
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Very nice "Fairbanks" fellows; I have a single cylinder , can anyone tell me the year, I've never had a tag for it. THANK YOU Adrian |
andrew
| | Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2003 - 04:17 pm: |
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Adrian,
Post a picture or email it to me and I will post it here.
There was a book of the history of Fairbanks-Morse written by C.H. Wendel in 1993 and published by Stemgas Publishing. It was mainly farm engines of course, but did have quite a lot of marine engine info, early... as well as the later large diesels.
Regards,
Andrew |
andrew
| | Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2003 - 04:39 pm: |
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Adrian's engine:
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richarddurgee
| | Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2003 - 06:54 pm: |
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My 1911 catalog and 1915 pamphlet for the G and E
engines are just like those above that Bill Posted
My black G and Bill's twin and triple all have split crankcase castings as the catalog shows.
The Green twin pictures and the yellow one have what I think is an older one piece casting with the crank bearings in the removable flanges fore and aft.Also interesting to see that Fairbanks was still very much into oilers as late as 1915.
>
I also have an E model like the above catalog and
like bill's red one, with serial No # 5636. When you look at Adrians E above note the aft driven water/pump/timer assembly the cylinder casting is also different for these reasons and around the exhaust flange, it's a different era E model and older I believe. Any other catalogs or pictures of these earlier than 1911 ???? Would like to know when Fairbanks started making two stroke marine engs and when they ceased. |
andrew
| | Posted on Sunday, February 16, 2003 - 11:30 am: |
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The following was sent in by Larry Healey:
Quote:Goodday Andrew.
Here are some photos from the 1910 Canadian Fairbanks general catalog-- There is some confusion here as the engine logo says C.F.C. & the name plates say C.F.M.--just something else to confuse us! C. F had a factory in Toronto from about 1905 to 1925 --one of the original buildings was still standing ten years ago-Probably still is.
I'm sending them to you so that you can arrange them to suit the space--The colour shots are of one that I own--as I bought it. I have a F-M marine catalog & will send the engine photos from it tonight--it has Waterman outboard & inboard as well as F-M engines in it....
"All the best"
Larry Healey
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andrew
| | Posted on Sunday, February 16, 2003 - 11:36 am: |
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Also some text from the above catalog, sent by Larry:
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andrew
| | Posted on Sunday, February 16, 2003 - 11:39 am: |
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More Fairbanks info from a "supplies" catalog provided by Larry:
Quote:Undated motor boat accessories catalog there were just two pages of engines (as sent)
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Josiah Hanna
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, November 16, 2006 - 12:24 am: |
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I'v got a FM type E engine like Bill's red one.It has no ribs under the flywheel rim. There's only one wire contact on the timer assembely.The other E engines on this page seem to have a kill switch or a contact on the spark lever, mine has nothing on the lever.The timer case is bigger also.It looks like some of these engines have 2 spark levers.Mine has one.Serial# 79898.The carb is set up as an updraft.The tag is gone, but judging by screw holes in the block it looks like it was mounted on the flywheel side of the block.Can anyone tell me what year it is,or if it's early or late? |
David Selby
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2007 - 05:03 pm: |
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I have found an old Fairbanks-Morse Engine on an old farm that I recently purhcased. It is stationary, standing approximately 6 to 7 feet tall and probably weighs in the neighborhood of 1200 to 2000 pounds. It is sitting on a concrete engine mount with a large fly-wheel. I have been told it was used to run a compress which turns cotton into modules, the large bales you see on the side of the road during harvest season. When I get some pictures I will send them in but if anyone has any information or pictures I am certain that I could pick it out. Want to know what the fuel source was and approximate age. Thanks for your help.
David Selby |
Bill Saunders
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, February 10, 2008 - 02:34 pm: |
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I am in the process of restoring a 2 cyl, FM 7 hp type E Marine engine that has been in my possesion for about 60 years. I want to remove the flywheel to make it easier to handle during assembly and reassembly. Question: is the flywheel barrel nut a left or right hand thread? I assumed that it was right hand since the flywheel rotation is counter clockwise facing the front of the engine. However, use of the optional crank would suggest a left hand thread. Otherwise, use of the crank might loosen the nut. Which is it?
This engine is less the gear water pump and has a broken piston ring. Any suggestions as to a source for these two parts?
Thanks for any info or suggestions.
Bill saunders |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 619
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2008 - 06:54 am: |
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Any idea when a Type-K # M. 5933 Fairbanks Morse could have been made? |
richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 1720
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2008 - 12:14 pm: |
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*
Dick
The Type "K" was introduced in late 1911, a 7 1/2 and twin 15 Hp models. They were an "M" model designation the Code name for the 7/12 was "MYTEK" the twin "MYTUB". I believe they were made for only 6-7yrs just before WWI.
* |
steam38guy
New member
Username: steam38guy
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2017
| | Posted on Sunday, August 27, 2017 - 07:43 pm: |
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Just purchased this. Has a non-standard flywheel and needs intake/exhaust manifolds, ignition system and water pump. Would very much appreciate detailed pictures and if possible enough dimensions to reverse engineer the components.  |
robert
Senior Member
Username: robert
Post Number: 906
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 12, 2017 - 10:50 am: |
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Can you post a few more shots of the flywheel it has? The larger FM's were beasts if the one I have the remains of it anything to go by. I would like to see one run, I was going to say they must have been really "thumpers", but with all that mass perhaps they weren't. |
steam38guy
New member
Username: steam38guy
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2017
| | Posted on Sunday, September 17, 2017 - 04:26 pm: |
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Any pictures/dimensions would be greatly appreciated. Here are some more detailed pictures. It's been gently cleaned up (toothbrush & paint thinner) & coated with 30 oil. I plan on both a full "museum" restoration to running condition and then some minor modifications so I can actually use in a boat (more modern carburetor for safety).
There has been a lot of care taken on this engine over the years. As it gets installed in real boat, there will be the extra items like a closed cooling system to keep it preserved. (The retaining nut shown is machined from brass, but is frozen due to crankshaft rust, gently working it with Kroil) |
steam38guy
New member
Username: steam38guy
Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2017
| | Posted on Sunday, September 17, 2017 - 04:42 pm: |
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Here are 3 more pictures. As progress is made, I expect to have to cast new parts (manifolds, water pump, flywheel & oil lubrication system), where realistic these may be in aluminum (friend has forge). So if there is interest in getting more of these engines back to running condition.....(email [email protected])    |
robert
Senior Member
Username: robert
Post Number: 909
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Friday, September 22, 2017 - 12:15 am: |
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Lots of photos and catalogue illustrations here: http://www.oldmarineengine.com/cgi-bin/discus/search.cgi
Keep this topic active and I'm sure you'll get more results when everyone gets settled into their winter "sports". ;-) |
steam38guy
Member
Username: steam38guy
Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2017
| | Posted on Sunday, September 24, 2017 - 11:23 pm: |
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A thank-you to prior postings (left hand flywheel nut removed) & prior owner for fabricating a brass flywheel nut. Looks like the cylinder has been sleeved, hoping that rest of main drive components have been rebuilt.
Questions:
Does the gib key have to be removed to get the flywheel off, or is it OK to gently use a wheel puller with the gib key still in?
Does anyone have a 17" Fairbanks-Morse flywheel for sale?   |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 929
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Friday, September 29, 2017 - 12:59 pm: |
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Gib keys are tapered ( big end outside) and are designed to prevent the flywheel from coming off.
So that means the key has to come out before you can remove the flywheel.
When I removed the key from my shaft ( Gray) I started by very carefully picking out ALL of the debris, in and around the key and the shaft.
I then applied penetrating fluid ( take your pick - they all seem to work) for about a week.
Mercifully, the tab on my key was intact and presented a solid surface against which to work.
I used 2 opposed steel wedges to apply the removing pressure against that face.
Other tactics may be useful.
Here is a very useful article by one of the best in the business - Dick Day
http://www.oldmarineengine.com/technical/gib_keys.htm
And I NEVER ever applied heat to the flywheel hub
miro |
steam38guy
Member
Username: steam38guy
Post Number: 5
Registered: 07-2017
| | Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 10:24 am: |
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After research these engines used a woodruff key, so lots of soaking time and a wheel puller everything came off without a glitch. A friend just got a 3D printer, so I'm trying to get original flywheel, intake & exhaust dimensions so I can make patterns for replacement parts. If anyone is interested in replication parts, please let me know. (by looking at web pictures I guessing the existing flywheel may be from a 1930's stationary diesel) |
steam38guy
Member
Username: steam38guy
Post Number: 6
Registered: 07-2017
| | Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2018 - 10:34 am: |
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The prior owner redid the babbitt bearings (can't pass a .0015 feeler gage between shaft & bearing), the connecting rod bearings were reinstalled with lock wire, so all of the main components have been rebuilt with care. Now it's onto finding/fabricating all the other components. |
steam38guy
Member
Username: steam38guy
Post Number: 8
Registered: 07-2017
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 20, 2020 - 08:43 pm: |
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Seeing if there is still anyone with one of these engines. All I would need would be a picture with a ruler and/or graph paper next to parts to replicate them. (I did find that the sleeve is cast iron). Need original flywheel, intake and exhaust manifolds. Nice to have would be ignition |
