| Author |
Message |
    
raa
Member
Username: raa
Post Number: 20
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2010 - 09:27 pm: | 
|
I was getting nervous since I had no major projects lined up for this winter. I was able to get this ca.1908 Tuttle 16' fishing launch which had most of the hard work done in 1991-2 and the project lay dormant and eventually moved to Anderson S.C. about 5 years ago. The engine has a serial number 8L111 which I take to be 1908,launch with variable prop and hull number 11. I have the following questions if anyone has knowledge on a Tuttle:
1. Should the boat have a Wheel or is it steered with a cotton rope like a Dippy?
2.Does the engine run on straight gas and depend upon the pressure oiling system to keep the rod and main bearings wet or should I use a normal 2 cycle oil mix and still use the pressure oiling system?
3.Is there any quirks on running the Tuttle engine?
4. Does anyone have a engine like this? The prop shifting handle is broken and I need to make a new one or repair this one so I need some idea how long it is supposed to be. so I need the distance from the shaft to the end of the handle.
Many thanks in advance
Dick
|
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 501
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2010 - 10:03 pm: |
|
The on;y real downside to usng a 2 cycle oil/gas miz is that you might build up carbon deposits faster than if you used straight gas - it would take some years of cruising to make any difference.
So I would say - use the oil/gas mix - from one of Ernie's recent comments it would also help keep up the compression.
Although the theory of oilers for the main bearings is good, - a greased bearing helps keep the crankcase sealed and thus easier to start.
I usually give the grease fitting a half turn before starting and rock the engine shaft back and forth to spread the grease and make a good seal.
Boats like this usually had a small side mounted steering wheel or steering lever - actually some Dippy's had such arrangements.
She looks like she needs some good ballast to keep her from being too tender in the water. I guy like me could supply the ballast :=}
Miro |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 506
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 08:17 pm: |
|
Looking at it again, and knowing that it is a fishing boat from a more genteel era, the guide usually was in the rear and the "guests" were up front.
That means the controls for engine and steering were at the rear seat.
The shift handle for the prop is probably very similar to the shift handle on a small Geis gear transmission - about18-20 in.
miro |
raa
Member
Username: raa
Post Number: 21
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Monday, October 18, 2010 - 08:40 pm: |
|
I think you are correct about having the steering at or near the rear seat. The photos I have showing the boat as found shows a couple of boards which span across the boat just ahead of the engine which are the support for the seat. It shows what I think may be a box for a hot shot battery.
The prop is so small the force required to shift the prop is probably rather small so the lever would not have to be long the get mechanical leverage ----more for operator convenience.
Miro have you any opinions about putting a eye bolt through the new stem for use in hauling the boat onto the trailer? I had one person say it would not be a good idea 'cause it would put a strain on the planking and might cause leaks. Total boat weight is about 350 lbs and there are 4 rollers so should not take too much to haul it up the trailer.
Any thoughts?
I may need some ballast next summer if all goes according to plan.
Dick |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 508
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, October 25, 2010 - 10:58 pm: |
|
I think if you are careful ( and I think you will be) about hauling the boat up, there is no issue with the stem somehow getting lose in its fastenings. I don't think you'll just hook her up and start cranking. Once you've had some experience getting her out , you'll know if there is too much strain on the stem post.
The boat is quite light and looks like it might some flex in the hull in any case.
I'd want to make sure the hull is well supported on the trailer - more support is better.
miro |
bruce
Senior Member
Username: bruce
Post Number: 239
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2010 - 02:57 pm: |
|
Ribbed wood boats don't store or travel well on trailers with rollers-bunk trailers are much better as the rollers can distort the keel with the boat keel sitting on them for any length of time. I used a butt strap(Around the transom) and a couple trailer winches connected to the strap to pull a 32 foot mahaogany runabout onto it's trailer for several years. The winches even helped keep the boat aligned over the center of the trailer when loading on a steep ramp. |
raa
Member
Username: raa
Post Number: 22
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 26, 2010 - 09:00 pm: |
|
The trailer that came with the boat looks like it will launch easy since it is quite low to the ground. The trailer has two bunk boards one on each side and 4 rollers to support the keel. I went a little over kill when I built up the trailer for the Dippy and used 12 rollers and 2 bunk boards. Anyhow --thanks guys for the good input.
Dick |
jziegler
Member
Username: jziegler
Post Number: 13
Registered: 11-2011
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2011 - 08:05 am: |
|
Dick, Just ran across this post,good to have in my pocket for the future, thanks... |
