| Author |
Message |
    
byron
Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 27
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 05:01 am: | 
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Hi All,
Remember me - I am restoring the 10/12hp Simplex Twin engine (see previous posts) for my boat?
Well there is good news and bad news - the good news is that I am inching closer with the relaunch. The bad news is that last week I was testing the engine with a garden hose attached when I must have had the pressure up too much, I think it filled my manifold water trap and then started pooring out through the carby.
I quickly shut off the water, pulled out the carby and cleaned it out, took off the spark plugs and blew out any moisture I could see and turned over the engine, just warming it up a little to get rid of any water.
It was a minor hiccup but an annoying one. Previously I had taken your advice and covered the float in the carby with plastic glue and that seems to have been effective. I still have two problems which I would value your advice on!
1. I can't get the engine to idle now. It will only run while I have my fingers over the carby cowling (or partially over). I am assuming this is giving choke to the engine? I have tried adjusting the carby needle but that then sees petrol dripping out from the throttle pin? I have tried adjusting the air float(?) but to no avail. What can I adjust to fix this issue?
2. My second problem is related and that is a drip of petrol from the underside of the throttle pin. I am assuming even a few drips is not good in a boat - I thought the cork float may have been the problem not being water proof and letting through more petrol but that is now probably not the issue.
Any ideas greatfully received!!! |
rbprice
Senior Member
Username: rbprice
Post Number: 341
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 07:51 am: |
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If the carburetor is a Schebler or maybe even a Monarch, you can replace the cork float with a molded plastic float available from a guy in, I think, Maryland. Search on OME to find a link.
Bob Price |
puttputtputt
Member
Username: puttputtputt
Post Number: 9
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 08:16 am: |
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Hello Byron
IF the joint between the carburetor and block is not completely airtight, the engine will not run properly. The effect is most serious at idle speed because the closed throttle creates a vacuum and draws more false air through the joint.
RBG |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 193
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 05:31 pm: |
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Rust and rubbish from the exhaust may have washed into the air valve assembly and is restricting its operation,strip and clean the carb
Todd |
byron
Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 28
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 07:32 pm: |
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Thanks for that - I'll pull off the carby again - see if the air valve is working right and will make sure I seal it right when I bolt it back in. The cork float is fine now that it is coated. Any thoughts on the petrol weeping from the underside of the throttle pin? It is a very annoying drip.
Cheers
Byron |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 69
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 08:04 pm: |
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Byron, I know this is probably a bit late but I'd suggest that when test running that you use water recirculating in a 20 litre drum of water. If your water outlet is not mixing with the exhaust then have a long hose on either inlet or the outlet (or both) to increase cooling. If the outlet is going out though the exhaust then just run your garden hose into the drum. Cheers Laurie |
qwilkin
Member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 23
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 08:14 pm: |
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I know how you feel when the water gets in .
I was starting my Blaxland twin and I turned on the watewr first , wrong , start engine then turn on water .
I know have a three way recirculating tap in the inlet and use a drum as recomended and fill it for the running and cleaning out salt water after a sea run .
Quinton |
puttputtputt
Member
Username: puttputtputt
Post Number: 10
Registered: 02-2009
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 10:47 pm: |
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The petrol leak at the throttle pin will probably stop itself when you have properly sealed the joint and corrected float level and mixture.
RBG |
byron
Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 29
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 11:02 pm: |
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Thanks guys - I am now wiser when connecting water - the drum sounds a great idea and I will turn the water inlet tap on after the engine is started. RBG - when you say the correct float level - do I need to bend the brass lever the float is on to reduce the height of the float in the carby as there is no adjustment on it?
Cheers
Byron |
solarrog
Senior Member
Username: solarrog
Post Number: 446
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 11:12 pm: |
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Most floats are adjusted by bending the tab, unless its plastic! a general rule to get close is turn the carnuretor upside down and adjust the float till it is level with the carb body.
this is close enough to run good. |
solarrog
Senior Member
Username: solarrog
Post Number: 447
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 11:13 pm: |
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oops missed the *B |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 70
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 11:24 pm: |
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Byron, The 'A' Series carby should have a small brass 'ball' shaped ring on the needle valve. The lever from the float rides on it and it is adjustable (by being able to push that 'ball' (carefully) up or down the valve. I think the Simplex manual describes the procedure and I'm yet to get my photography together for such matters (or even my boat with the Blaxland in it). Regards, Laurie |
byron
Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 30
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2010 - 11:44 pm: |
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thanks guys, I think mine might be a model d carby but I remeber the ball on the needle. I'll have a look as to how best to adjust it. It would be great if this could stop the leak!
Cheers
Byron |
senojn
Senior Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 62
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 02:50 am: |
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Hi Byron ,
I have a four page print of The Alpha (inside a diagram of Australia ) 'D' published 1956 covering their 3/4 and 1 inch models .
May be useful but a bit of history anyway .
Also in ref. to the float glue I would be interested to know if it was the blue pvc I suggested .
Regards ,
Neil |
senojn
Senior Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 63
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 03:04 am: |
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G'day solarrog ,
People misspell the 'Carby' in so many ways a missed *B doesn't matter .
Neil |
byron
Advanced Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 31
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 03:53 am: |
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Hi Neil,
Thanks - I think I have that which I got with the instrction manual from Hardman and Hall. While being helpful with the diagrams etc it doesn't give the 'how to get it working info' for dummies like me that you all have provided so valuably - I did take your advice and used the blue glue which seems to have coated it really well. It was a relatively painless job for once! This weekend and possibly tomorrow I hope to give the engine another go and see if I can get it sorted out!
Cheers
Byron |
byron
Advanced Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 32
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 03:31 am: |
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Hi all,
Just pulled off the carby and cleaned it out, adjusted the float level and reassembled it. I did the water in the bucket trick (no hose from the house this time)and almost had the engine idling well when water came through the carby again???
I pulled off the manifold just in case it had a hole in it but it was all ok.My only other thought is to pull off the head gasket again as there may be something wrong with it???
Before I do that does anyone have any other ideas as to why the water could be coming out the carby???
Cheers
Byron |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 194
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 05:53 pm: |
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You must have a hole in the manifold somewhere,
Because if it was in the head/head gasket it would
be low on compression and would idle poorly at best
Blank off the inlet port on the manifold once you
have removed it from the engine,remove carby,then
place it with the blanked off side down and poor
water into the other side,if you have a hole this
will tell you because water will come out somewhere
else
Todd |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 71
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 06:43 pm: |
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Byron, I agree with Todd's suggestion, try the manifold first (saves the hassle of removing the head). From your description though it sounds like the water is only getting out when the motor is warm? If so that sounds more like a crack, or given that your cooling systems has been subject to mains pressure it may be a blown gasket (could even be the manifold gasket?). I suggest checking that gasket first when you remove the manifold, then the manifold as per Todd's suggestion (look for signs of cracks & use diesel to test for leaks - it penetrates much better than water). If they check out OK then consider the head. ps have you checked the tension on the head? Regards Laurie |
byron
Advanced Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 33
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 10:48 pm: |
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Hi Todd and Laurie,
Thanks heaps for the suggestions - I will follow them up. I took the manifold off yesterday and looked for signs of a crack or leak but it all looked good but I will put some fluid in it to see if there is anything I have missed. The manifold gasket looked good too.
You are right Laurie - the water only appears as the engine heats up??? I checked the head tension earlier in the week before I restarted it and it did need tightening - they had been a bit loose compared to when I first changed the head gasket over although the engine had not been run for long periods. I have a feeling that I might need to take the head off again but I will check the other stuff first.
Thanks heaps
Byron |
byron
Advanced Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 34
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Friday, October 01, 2010 - 04:54 am: |
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Hi All,
I checked the manifold and no holes there so I took the plunge and took the head off and found a hole in the head above the No.2 cyclinder!
It seemed ok when we put the head back on but whether fatigue/age/ or the new pressure from the rings caused it I don't know? Incidently it was above the cyclinder that had seized and was difficult to get out so whether there was a crack in the head that we didn't notice when we originally rebuilt the engine I'm not sure.
Anyway I am now off in search of a second hand head if I can get one - I'll start with the Pompei's and go from there. Its a bit frustrating but I'm sure we will work our way through it!
Cheers
Byron |
senojn
Senior Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 64
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Friday, October 01, 2010 - 06:13 am: |
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G'day Byron ,
You will probably have success in obtaining one however if not I am prepared to swap yours for the one I have ,as per the photo in the first posts to demonstrate what they look like .
It was from Laurie and I only require the head to assemble a cosmetic motor .
Cost will only be two mail transfers .
Photo attached to show what I do with them for my own comfort and history . |
byron
Advanced Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 35
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 05:44 am: |
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Hi Neil,
Sorry about the delay in responding - its been a busy weekend. I really appreciate the offer - I was unsuccessfull in getting one from the Pompei's on Sat but Leon Pompei was happy to have a go at welding it but it is doubtful that it would work - we also found another spot near the crack where it had been repaired previously. In hindsight it has probably had a crack in it since I've had it hence the second cylinder below it being seized and I had to replace the rings.
I would love to swap if that is ok with you and more than happy to pay for postage. Let me know if that is definately ok as it will not work again
Here is a photo of it:
In the photo above, the one on the right is where the hole is (this is an older photo) and you can see a plug from what must have been a previous repair. From the outside it looks ok ...just not on the inside!
Well if it is ok - let me know and I'll email you for contact details.
Cheers
Byron |
senojn
Senior Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 65
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 05:44 pm: |
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Hello Byron,
Yes a swap in perfectly OK.
Laurie might be kind enough to comment on its condition and suitability before we go ahead ?
A current photo is attached .It will need work .
Kind regards ,
Neil |
senojn
Senior Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 66
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 05:52 pm: |
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Picture |
byron
Advanced Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 36
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, October 03, 2010 - 06:38 pm: |
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Thanks Neil,
If Laurie thinks it will do the job then I'll arrange to get things moving. We'll see what he has to say.
Cheers
Byron
PS - love the display of engines - they look awesome! |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 72
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 07:07 pm: |
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Byron, I'm not sure if the head from Neil's motor would fit yours. I understand that Neil's head is from a 3 3/4 bore motor (the early models). I understand your's is 3 7/8th bore. Apart from any difference in the combustion chamber I'm not sure if the studs, water channels etc lineup. If they are compatable I cannot tell you much about the condition of Neil's head (the one in the photo). I removed it from the motor which was in very ordinary condition and it took some effort to remove it. It had plenty of rust in the water channels and if otherwise OK would probably need surface grinding. Simplex Marine Engines at Seven Hills (Sydney) will supply a new head (make sure you specify the bore size). If I remember correctly they are about $600. |
spence
Member
Username: spence
Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 07:31 pm: |
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Trace the outline of one or both heads on paper and compare them by mail. |
byron
Advanced Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 37
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 07:38 pm: |
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Hi Laurie and Neil,
Thanks for the 'heads up' about the different bore sizes - I hadn't realised that there was a difference! It would be a pain if the water chanels and studs did not line up. On further talks with Leon Pompei he thought that he will be able to repair the head by welding it. I might give that a try and if that fails I will have to get a new one from Simplex - I rang them this morning and they thought about $470 for a new one. I really appreciate the assistance from you both - if you are ever in Melbourne then feel free to visit - you never know - the boat may finally get launched!! I'll keep you posted on the progress.
Cheers
Byron |
qwilkin
Member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 24
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 08:16 pm: |
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Byron,
I am in Ballarat and am looking to get togehter with interested parties with wooden boats and old motors . I have a blaxland twin , where abouts are you in melbourne would love to visit and alsoanyone else around the metropolitan area or country . I need to get together with like minded souls to enjoy these craft
Quinton |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 73
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 09:44 pm: |
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Gents, WRT Spence's message. It's not so much a question of the outside dimensions and possibly not even the stud holes that one could trace. It is the combustion chamber and water ducting that need to match. A print of each could be helpful (eg cover the face of each head with oil, texta or similar and imprint it onto a piece of paper and compare). Otherwise Byron, welding may be the solution - the right person can weld cast iron and depending on how extensive the crack/s is/are it can be successful. At $470 (presmuably with hardened (stainless?) valve seats (to run the motor on unleaded) and presuming you will also fit stainless vales (sit down before you ask the price of those or did you fit them already?) it boils down to qs such as how much use the boat will get, can the budget stretch to that option etc etc. Cheers. Laurie |
senojn
Senior Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 67
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 10:26 pm: |
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Many thanks Laurie ,all noted .
Byron ,I will clean the head over the next few days and paint the underside with something and while wet put a sheet of paper over it to give a fairly accurate template .
Will mail it (when dry ) and cross our fingers .
Nothing lost !
Regards ,Neil . |
spence
Member
Username: spence
Post Number: 6
Registered: 05-2007
| | Posted on Monday, October 04, 2010 - 10:28 pm: |
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Heck yes! All the contours must be traced. My message obviously caused confusion. Sorry.
I have had success brazing cast iron motorcycle heads. They needed surfacing afterwards because they warped. Brazing is so much easier than welding cast iron.
I used stainless valves from Wisconsin in a Palmer BH 25. They cost $9.17 each but the hardened stems required shortening by grinding. |
byron
Advanced Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 38
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 12:18 am: |
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Thanks everyone. Nothing is easy is it? As far as the budgets go - its limited at the moment given that we are near launch date and need all the other stuff that goes with boats. laurie - had not thought of stainless valves as mine seemed ok - what sort of petol would you run the engine on if you don't have stainless valves???
When I got the engine I was thinking of a period style engine that would be reliable ... did not think that there may also be problems with the older engines (yep know now). Its just whether if I spend more on the engine will something else major go wrong?
Neil, Many thanks for the offer to trace the head - that's really great - it is off at the guy's place who is going to give it a go at welding it - I'll hopefully know early next week whether it has worked or not - I'm not holding out much hope.
Quinton - happy to meet - I am in Aspendale in Melbourne (near Mordialloc) - my interest has been in boat restoration (restoring a 21ft couta boat) and fell in to the engine stuff by accident when I couldn't get mine working!
Thanks Spence for your suggestion - it's a clever way to see if they are compatible.
Cheers
Byron |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 74
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 12:47 am: |
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Byron, Without the stainless valves and seats you would need to run your motor on lead replacement fuel (eg using the little bottles of addative that are readily available at a resaonable cost but for me it's just another thng to think about - hence my penchant for being able to run on unleaded (read not with ethanol). They tell me that unleadde would burn out our valves and saets otherwise (probably a bit like eating lots of chilli if you are not set up for it). |
senojn
Senior Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 68
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 02:40 am: |
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Hi Lads ,
Love your analogy Laurie .
Fortunately there are only receptors in our mouths and not seats or any other parts .
I have to mix fuels in seven different ratios including the lead free additive and it worksfine . Buy bulk 20/40 litres (non ethanol) and decant/mix so it should be easy enough. $$$ .
I have cleaned the head surface and sheared two studs to get a better print . What colour would you like Byron (blue)?
Drilled into the one blocked orifice and it finally came good allowing water to pass to all the chambers .
Have the head in front of me at the moment and visually all the holes are in the right places but as Laurie says it is the fine detail that matters . |
john_archibald
Senior Member
Username: john_archibald
Post Number: 148
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 08:52 am: |
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Just grind out the old hole so that it has tapered walls, stick in a chunk of steel the same shape, thickness and a little smaller and TIG weld it in there using pure nickel rod.
When she cools down you can grind or machine the nickel weld and then you should be good to go.
Archibald
Northfield, Minnesota
. |
byron
Advanced Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 39
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 05:40 pm: |
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Hi All,
Laurie - I love your analogy as well! - thanks for the info on the stainless and unleaded issue - was certainly not aware of that so looks like I will need to get organised with mixing petrol. If it turned out that I need to get a new head then I would probably do the valves. If all goes well with fixing the existing or swapping the head then I will probably leave it for the moment and then replace at a later stage. It might be like the Sydney Harbour bridge and have a future maintenance program! In saying that I have done nothing to the Thrustmatic gear box and just have my fingers crossed that all is well there.
Neil - that is very good of you to do the work on the head that you have done - I really appreciate that - any colour would be fine - more than happy with blue!!! That's great to hear that all is in the right places.
Thanks also John for your thoughts on welding the head - maybe I should be a bit more positive about the head being fixed.
Cheers
Byron |
qwilkin
Member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 25
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 05:55 pm: |
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Hello out there can anyone help with three points ,
1) what is the colour of the red that is used on Blaxland Engines as I wish to repaint mine, 2) Does anyone know of a FNR gearbox to match a Blaxland twin I believe they did make one and 3) am having trouble finding a leak in my restored boat any ideas, I have filled it from the inside to no avail.
Can anyone help me with these querries .
Thanks Quinton |
senojn
Senior Member
Username: senojn
Post Number: 69
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 08:00 pm: |
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Hi Byron ,
Pic of the template on a manila folder .
It should suffice for measuring purposes.
If you would send me your postal address by pesonal Email I shall get it underway.
A tip for anyone using this approach to copy ,it is best to press paper down on the object .First attempt to put the head onto paper resulted in the small particles of rubbish/rust etc falling and didn't allow the paint to contact the surface ! |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 195
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 09:30 pm: |
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1)Post office red For Blaxlands
2)Those blaxland gear boxes are really hard on the
rear end of the crank
3)Dry it out as much as possible,take out all the floor(sole),chuck it back in the water,jump in it with a friend,putt along slowly,you look for leaks
from halfway along the motor to the stern.Pay
attention to the stern gland and dead wood area.
Also check around the inlet skin fitting and associated plumbing to and from the motor.
Get your friend to check from the front half of the motor to the stem,check for water leaks from
the pump and the cross over between the heads.
Check up in the bows around the stem,pay attention
to the area above the "sitting" water line,also check the area around the "stop water" area in the stem.
Re the root of this thread,why dont you just buy a
new head and take the worry of reliability off your mind,if its in a boat it has to be reliable,
you dont want it stopping in the middle of nowhere
with a lee shore and nasty rocks etc waiting for you.As the Bell crash helmet ad went"If you have
a $10 head buy a $10 helmet"Yours is a thrustmatic
Geoff has heads for them,and thinks they are compatible with the older style donks,you may have
to drill one water jacket hole if it is the really
old style.
I wouldn't worry too much about unleaded fuel re
valve deterioration,not used often enough,doesn't
get hot enough.If it bothers people that much just
add some "flash lube" to the fuel,and when you have finished putting for the day,just roll the
engine over until both exhaust valves are closed
Cheers Todd |
todd_vidgen
Senior Member
Username: todd_vidgen
Post Number: 196
Registered: 03-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 09:33 pm: |
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PS We all go out boating for fun ,not as a survival
exercise. |
qwilkin
Member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 26
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 11:11 pm: |
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Thanks Tod, will do as you advised next weekend and strip floor out and start the check
Thanks for the note on the Blaxland gearbox , are there any other gearboxes that you can recomend or just spin the magy
Quinton |
byron
Advanced Member
Username: byron
Post Number: 40
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 11:33 pm: |
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Thanks Todd and Neil for your assistance and thoughts. If I had plenty of dollars at the moment then I would definately be buying a new head but just trying to balance getting the boat in the water with the rest of life stuff. This may be a two stage process - 1 get the head fixed or swapped and 2 later get a new head. But in saying all that I do want the engine to be reliable otherwise it will be pointless having it so I take your point Todd and will think about it. Thanks also Todd for the pointers on trying to find leaks thanks to Quinton - may come in handy soon. Neil - I have emailed you my address - thanks again for your assistance
Cheers
Byron |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 75
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, October 07, 2010 - 10:03 pm: |
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Quinton, I concur with Todd's suggestions for finding the leak/s. Sometimes the engine or other obstacles may make it hard to locate the precise leak. Another option is to get the boat out of the water and spray inside the bilge with a hose. Any water leaking through the hull will indicate the source of your leak (but leaks around flanges/ fittings etc are usually best found by Todd's method). I got a bit of a laugh out of a landlubbing work colleague once who suggested diving under the boat to look for bubbles. Regards Laurie. |
qwilkin
Member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 27
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 01:56 am: |
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To Tod and Laurie. I lifted floor boards today vacuumed out the biges then put in plug and filled with water up to water line . Nothing happened so must be in connections where water comes in or glands and maybe water pump. I replaced gaskets on the water transfer branch between no 1 and 2 barrel as well as the pump intake into no 1 barrel .Its having mods made to origonal trailer on monday to help it too slip in and out and then I will take it down to clifton springs on friday and test again .
Thanks for the advise and will report .
Quinton |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 76
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 02:20 am: |
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Quinton, Caution with filling the boat to the water line (as against spraying water about the bilge). The volume of water involved could put some loads on the hull in a direction that it is not designed for. It can also put an excessive laod on a trailer. Given that you have not found the problem (and leaks upstream from the water pump should not involve much water) it seems like a good idea to get the boat in the water and look at it. One approach I've tried is to give the bilge a light coat of detergent about and look for water (and bubbles)when you put the boat in the water. However, with the OH&S issues with having everything so slippery I cannot recommend that. Regards Laurie |
qwilkin
Member
Username: qwilkin
Post Number: 28
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Friday, October 08, 2010 - 02:42 am: |
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Yhanks Laurie
Yep I beleieve that we will see more when its in the water, also it might be when its underway so the speed might be pushing water in somewhere any way will check all water connections again and will also start her up on dry land with the water tank connected to check the connections again before in goes in the water to at least eliminate the connections
THanks Again for support
Quinton
love the bubbles idea getthe point on ohand s.
Many thanks
Q |
