| Author |
Message |
    
jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener
Post Number: 5
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Monday, August 25, 2008 - 08:54 pm: | 
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Just picked this engine up at the Portland Indiana antique engine show. Anyone got any info on it? the tag is missing, and also, is this the correct carb? Thanks |
bgoss
Advanced Member
Username: bgoss
Post Number: 35
Registered: 12-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 26, 2008 - 08:04 pm: |
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JK, I saw your post on the other channel with your new eclipse. Nice engines. The base looks to fit pretty good, do you think that it was a stationary model with the flat belt pulley on the far end? But it does have a big marine-type muffler.
Interesting.
Blair |
jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener
Post Number: 7
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 05:13 am: |
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It might have been used later in life as a stationary engine, but the base is not original, its just a good fit. |
richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 1787
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 11:48 am: |
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*
I had a few photos of this engine from the previous owner (trying to get a better view of the carb) but can't find them right now. Identified it as a Roberts and looked into its history, Roberts made this design from 1908 to 1913 (WWI). The 1911 -12 catalog showed the Kingston carb wwhich was the most expensive carb
option- you could order different carbs from many mfgrs on new engines---your engine above probably 1908-1910 !
1911
* |
dick
Member
Username: dick
Post Number: 6
Registered: 07-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 03:11 pm: |
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Attached is a picture taken at Mystic this year by Scott. It is a Roberts (Model O), made for/by (?) Mullins Boat Co. according to the tag, and it has the Kingston carb on it like the one in Richard's ad above. I don't know if the carb has been changed over time or not. Any other help I can give you?
 |
jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener
Post Number: 8
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 04:55 pm: |
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thanks a bunch guys. Mine has a spot in the flywheel that looks like it is for a handle. But if it is, then it would have been a very small one. How were these things started? Hand crank? |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 388
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 27, 2008 - 10:00 pm: |
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The crank was usually used on magneto equipped engines, pretty rare on marine applications. With a buzz coil you can usually choke it and prime by rocking back and forth on a two port engine like yours. Three port engines usually need to be pulled through to prime them. The engine should fire at top center with the timer straight forward. If you push the timer away a little before top center and pull the flywheel towards you it should kick and start in the opposite direction. Pull the timer towards you a little after top center and pull the flywheel through compression, it should start in the direction it's pulled. Once it starts you should advance the timing a little to get it running and cleared out, retarding after to reduce speed, the throttle is seldom used for speed control. On a two cycle engine compression is critical, the engine should have a good bounce when you pull against compression and let it go. Worn rings will usually give a pop and need more cranking. The combustion gasses go past the rings into the crankcase, instead of a fresh charge of air fuel you have exhaust in the crankcase, cranking it pumps it out until it pops again. |
jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener
Post Number: 9
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Thursday, August 28, 2008 - 05:54 am: |
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Thanks JB |
jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener
Post Number: 10
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 06:57 am: |
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Im looking for the brass timer lever. Mine is broken. See the below picture, it is broken at the arrow. Thanks everyone. John Widener
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john_archibald
Senior Member
Username: john_archibald
Post Number: 92
Registered: 08-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 09:28 am: |
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John,
If it is truly brass, then it can be silver soldered back together. When I say silver solder I mean 90 percent silver and 10 percent copper or some such alloy. ( Harris Sta-Silv 35 should work ) Bevel the edges leaving enough raw fracture for registration and then flux it all over with borax. Heavy near the joint. Bring to temperature with a torch and apply the silver solder. Both pieces should be clamped so they don't move with respect to each other during this process.
Let cool. Then throw into a pot of water and boil it. This will dissolve the flux that remains. Then file, sand and buff 'til your heart's content.
If it is bronze, then you will need a special flux. Borax won't work.
Archibald
Northfield, Minnesota |
barry
Senior Member
Username: barry
Post Number: 99
Registered: 02-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 10:59 am: |
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Here is an image of a 1 " NPT Kingston carb that is for sale. Send me an email if interested.
Barry
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dick
Member
Username: dick
Post Number: 8
Registered: 07-2004
| | Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2008 - 12:27 pm: |
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Mine had the timer handle completely broken off, so I silver soldered a small brass "patch" on the bottom to hold it together. Seems fine so far but it does show a litle.
. |
jkwidener
Member
Username: jkwidener
Post Number: 12
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 06:30 pm: |
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I got this engine up for trade. If anyone is interested. Im in Central Indiana and can deliver it to the Portland Indiana swap meet in May, The brass peice still needs soldered but not to hard to do, just havent had time. I have seen this engine running before i aquired it, but have not run it myself. Nice restoration already done and on a nice stand and on nice skids. interested in hit n miss engine trades or other simular items. [email protected] |
