| Author |
Message |
    
Robin O
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2005 - 09:52 am: | 
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I have steam coming from the exhaust of my Palmer- The engine starts right away and runs strong. I had this problem a few months ago and replaced the head gasket (copper) and cleaned out all the water ports in the block- the head was send out and properly serviced and re-installed by a local mechanic and everything worked perfectly. Does anyone out there know what might be causing the steam. This was the reason I originally serviced the head- I do not have a thermostat - the operating temp is about 110 degrees- The boat (Columbia 34 MKII) is in Marina Del Rey. Ca. |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 382
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, April 14, 2005 - 08:32 pm: |
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Have you checked the air/steam vent line on the head to make sure it is not blocked. It is located on the top forward portion of the head and extends over to the exhaust manifold. Make sure it does not have a blockage in the fittings where it connects to the head and the manifold. Some applications the manifold end actually goes to the thermostat houseing. |
Karl Burton
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2005 - 05:54 pm: |
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Speaking of the air/steam vent line - I was trading notes some years ago with another Morgan 28 owner who had happened to inherit from the original owner a lot of diagrams and things for the boat - I had often cooling system problems - and this guy showed me a copy of a blueprint from ThermoElectron (Palmer's successors) for a modification in the vent line to improve cooling - it moved the vent fitting on the manifold end from before the thermostat to the side of the thermostat that leads straight to the exhaust. |
Mike Bouressa
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2005 - 11:09 pm: |
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Would appreciate Info. as to where I can purchase a thermostat for a Palmer Model P-60 engine. Also, what is the recomended operating temp.
This is a fresh water cooled engine operating in salt water. |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 393
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2005 - 07:14 am: |
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No more than 143F as salt will percipitate out of the water and totally block the water passages in the engine. I am currently trying to locate the source of a suitable replacement thermostat that will fit the original Palmer supplied thermostat housing. I have one 143F thermostat but the marking of the name of the maker is corroded away. I am following up one good lead that I got at CMM and hopefully it will give us a generic thermostat that will fit the housing. With regard to the steam that sounds like there could be a restriction in the exhaust line where it joins the manifold. Has that been thoroughly been cleaned out. Sounds ominous I am afraid if it has. |
Ben Sidaway
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2005 - 09:58 am: |
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I got a thermostat that matched perfectly for my M-60 about a year or so ago from Duby Auto & Marine, 716 694 0922. $25 I think. I thought my thermostat was sticking but in fact the block was plugged full of scale. |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 394
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2005 - 05:14 pm: |
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Ben where is Duby Auto & Marine and what was the model of the thermostat. Hope you can remember. Thanks for any input Dick. |
andrew
Moderator
Username: andrew
Post Number: 1140
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2005 - 05:45 pm: |
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Duby Marine is in Tonawanda, New York. They specialize in Gray Marine gas engines. |
Mike Bouressa
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2005 - 09:20 pm: |
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Thank to all for your input. Maybe I should leave well enough alone. The P-60 is operating around 130 degrees. The sea water temp. in New England now is around 45 degrees. Maybe the cold water around the jacket is keeping the temp. below normal. When things heat up this summer I might be thankful for this cooler running engine.
I was surprised to learn that 140-145 degrees is a normal operating temp.
Again, thanks for the input. |
Ben Sidaway
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 04, 2005 - 10:23 pm: |
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Dick, My invoice shows thermostat #740T. With gasket, the cost was $25 in July 03.
Address is:
Duby Auto & Marine
254 Sweeney St
North Tonawanda, NY 14120
tel. 716 694 0922
fax. 716 694 0976
Hope this helps. |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 395
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, May 05, 2005 - 10:16 am: |
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Thanks Ben regards, Dick |
anon252
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 07, 2006 - 02:20 am: |
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Ahoy, Robert O.
I am in MDR as well, Pacific Coast Auto/Marine on Lincoln (see google/local) has been mostly sucessfull with most of my parts needs (thermostat, et al). For other items, I've had best sucess so far with http://www.yesterdaystractor.com (WA); (they have a full block rebuild kit w/gaskets and all the metal bits for $499 -- note: their bulk discount is good {not that I knew that before I bought the gaskets separately})...although I could have got a finish rebuilt block from valu-bilt at $1699 -- it may have had the wrong crank, but with parts and labor, a full rebuild and bore (to bring tolerances back to center on spec limits) is not much cheaper.
Note: YTC has a good price on repalacement heads, but gossip at coast rumors that Palmer head bolts are larger (dia) then IHC std. (If you have experience in this, pls start a new thread "tapping head bolts in [m|p]60 for IHC parts")
When I yanked the head off, I was surprised to find green grass poking out of the block (it died about a week later, but that didn't make it gone). The water pump has a hose to the block and there are two bolts that secure the 90' fitting there. If you have easy access to those bolts (easy as in maybe remove the alternator), pull it off and stick a finger in there. See if you can feel some vegitation (in the block or around the cylinders). This plant matter (maybe from Palos Verdes or Catalina), may be obstructing your water flow (if you have salt water cooling).
I found a nice fine screen flow filter that I plan to install before the water pump (NOTE: common uptake{style} through-hull fittings would have been too coarse to prevent ingress of sea grass with a diameter as small as the plant matter I found in my block). I will also integrate this flow filter with a fresh water flush, so that recirculating hot water from the engine mixes with the fresh water before the filter (so that fresh water has some flow distance to become acquainted with hot water) (Anyone with better ideas?)
On the downside, my diagnosis suggests your engine could be running hotter then optimal (plant matter), but your post suggests it may be too cool. Perhaps there is plant matter around your thermostat? Mine was clogged with 'white stuff' (maybe calcium, but is seemed fibrous and may have been lithium tape). If you have poor circulation around the temperature sensor ( top of the block, probably aft), it may not be reporting useful data.
Perhaps you can jury-rig (temporary measurement arrangement) a tee hose adapter to tap (e.g glass into hose, hose into larger hose into tee or some such appropriate arrangement that provides for minimal leak while placing the sensitive part of sensor in the primary flow of discharge) the flow with a proper (calbrated mercury ranging to 250F(120C) or electronic) lab grade termometer prior to the water discharge (leaving the manifold) to get a better measurement of the final(max) temperature value. |
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Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, March 06, 2006 - 02:15 pm: |
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