| Author |
Message |
    
rlkretzmeier
New member
Username: rlkretzmeier
Post Number: 5
Registered: 06-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, September 23, 2004 - 10:52 pm: | 
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This darn engine is getting to be a real hassle for this mechanically challenged person.
The latest situation involves random shut downs after varying lengths of engine running. Anywhere from 1 to 6 hours.
Initially, there was water intrusion from a faulty exhaust riser sytem, this was fixed, but the problem now persists.
When the engine dies, there is no warning, it just goes like a plug was pulled. Up to that point it runs well. Plugs are nice and clean and dont show any real signs of contamination.
Once I am towed back into the slip (the Vessel Assist crowd is considering me as a poster child next year), the motor will start the next morning just as if nothing had happened. It will not start the same evening once it cools down, it has to see the sunrise I guess.
One train of thought is an over heated coil that fails and then when it is cool, it recovers its ability and performs as it should (Viagra?). If in fact it is the coil, how do I find one (Cub Tractor coil?)
I would really appreciate any input from you all that could help get this issue resolved, it is beginning to not be funny anymore..
Thanks in advance for your help |
eddie
Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 20
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Friday, September 24, 2004 - 08:00 am: |
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A lot of older boats, or older cars, have problems with the ignition key switch. You don't see it in cars so much because they usually get junked before that happens. You can get a switch from West Marine for about $20. Be sure the drain hole in the body is pointed down when installing.
The coil is standard. You need one that DOES NOT REQUIRE EXTERNAL BALLAST.
Eddie |
eddie
Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 21
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Friday, September 24, 2004 - 10:30 am: |
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When was the last time you changed the condenser?
Eddie |
rlkretzmeier
Member
Username: rlkretzmeier
Post Number: 6
Registered: 06-2004
| | Posted on Friday, September 24, 2004 - 10:53 am: |
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Eddie,
Thanks for the key idea, I will give it a shot.
The condenser was changed about 3 months ago as this problem started developing.
Bob |
eddie
Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 22
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Friday, September 24, 2004 - 12:11 pm: |
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Bob,
The condenser idea was more a shot in the dark. If the problem was happening before you changed it then obviously that wasn't it. Condensers are notorious for being bad, brand new right out of the box. Also heat related problems point to the coil or condenser.
Eddie |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 304
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, September 26, 2004 - 09:50 pm: |
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You don't need a Cub Tractor coil. Just get a 12 coil with no need for an external resistor. Does the engine show signs of over heating when it shuts down? |
rlkretzmeier
Member
Username: rlkretzmeier
Post Number: 7
Registered: 06-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, September 26, 2004 - 10:04 pm: |
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Richard, I found a matching coil (according to the kid at the auto parts place anyway) and tried it..no luck. Heat doesn't necessarily seem to play a major part in this problem. I run no thermostat and the engine stays stone cold, unles my raw water screen plugs a bit, then I might get as high as 140F, but i cant say that the warmer it is the more it stalls.
Im about ready to pull what hair I have left out.
Thanks, Richard.
Bob |
solarrog
Senior Member
Username: solarrog
Post Number: 132
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2004 - 11:14 am: |
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This is an obscure problem that has stumped me a couple of times in the
past. I have seen the moving half of the points stick not allowing the
points to work. Clean, inspect or replace the points, I have also seen this
happen on plunger operated type points. The plunger swells when warm and
sticks open. I know this is a long shot. But I would revisit the ign system.
This swelling happens in damp areas more often. One last note, clean every
ground wire in the system.
Good luck.
Roger |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 305
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2004 - 10:20 pm: |
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Let us consider the fuel flow situation. Is there a plug in the fuel tank vent that slows the fuel flow to the carburetor? Is there a fuel in line filter that is in need of change? Is there a blockage in the carburetor inlet valve that starves the carburetor for fuel? These are areas that I would check at this point. Fuel flow is enough to keep running for a while but then the carburetor slowly starves for fuel until it stalls the engine. |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 217
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Monday, September 27, 2004 - 10:57 pm: |
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Get a twelve volt test light. Connect it to a suitable ground on the engine and touch a positive connection at the starter or battery to be sure the light isn't lieing. Turn the switch on and touch the coil +, you should have a light. Have someone crank the engine and touch the coil+ again, should still have light, ignition supply is ok. Touch coil - and have someone
crank the engine, the light should blink. No
light, coil open, points closed, or lead wire shorted to ground. Light on, not blinking, points not making contact or lead wire open. If the light blinks, remove the coil wire and hold the test light 3/8" away from coil tower, spark should jump while cranking. If the light is blinking and there's no spark from the coil, check the coil and condensor. Do these test while it's running and again after stalling so you'll know what to expect. A shot of starting fluid will tell you if it's a fuel problem. |
Mark Livingston
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, March 11, 2005 - 01:35 pm: |
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I am having the same problems, and am very frustrated with my engine. I believe it is a fuel flow problem, but sometimes the damn thing doesn't even start with starting fluid. If I can get it reliably to start with starting fluid,then I can work on the fuel flow issue. Can I arrange a pitot tube arrangement to check the float level? Something that would indicate a sticking inlet valve? |
eddie
Advanced Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 49
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 06:53 pm: |
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Mark,
Did you troubleshoot the ignition? Doesn't sound like a fuel problem if starting fluid fails. Doesn't need to be running on all cylinders to get it started either. How old is the boat? |
Mark Livingston
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 05:46 pm: |
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eddie, thanks. The boat is probably 50 yrs. old. I have spark. After a sleepless morning I figured that in all my vain attempting to adjust the float properly I may have moved it out of alignment and it hangs up on the wall of the float chamber. I will look at this tonight when I get off work. I have looked into the ignition and will get some new points (napa cs725a, my old ones are pitted) and a condensor if I can find one (anyone know the #?). Does anyone know where I can get a distributor? I would like a spare just because. I know they are out there cheaper than the price my local tractor dealer quoted me! |
eddie
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 53
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Friday, March 18, 2005 - 09:01 pm: |
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Mark,
dist cap AL-134
rotor AL-150
condenser AL-111
points AL4556XP
The distributor differs from tractor engine. About the age of the boat. If the ignition key switch is original or very old it should be replaced. You can get a marine grade ignition switch for about $20. Be sure the drain hole in the body of the switch is pointed down when installing. Replace the ignition components one at a time and try. 1 condenser. 2 points. 3 rotor. 4 dist cap. 5 coil. Coil should be one that DOES NOT REQUIRE EXTERNAL BALLAST. |
mikem
New member
Username: mikem
Post Number: 1
Registered: 11-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 12:21 pm: |
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Ihave a 1973 omc i/o 6 cylinder 165 hp.Start up and runs smooth,run it about 20 minutes,gets up on plane and runs great for about 3-5 minutes then jut shuts off.Engine will crank but no start.let sit for 30-60 minutes will start but need to idle in,otherwise it will do it again.Seems to be getting fuel,has new coil,new ballast resistor,points look good,condensor looks new,cap and rotor look new.Bought the boat last July and it was great all last year.Put it in in the spring and drove it 11 hours on the canal and it was fine.then this started.Any ideas???? |
Eddie from Oregon
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 12:52 pm: |
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Try a new condenser. Replace the ignition key switch. When installing new switch be sure that the drain hole in the body is pointed down. |
mrpos
Member
Username: mrpos
Post Number: 6
Registered: 06-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 03:16 pm: |
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For your engine to run properly you need fuel, compression, and ignition. Yours sounds like a fuel problem. If your engine starts coughing and backfiring when it dies out, you have a fuel starvation situation. There may be a filter or water separator that needs to be replaced. You may also have a blocked pickup tube in your gas tank. A quick emergency solution is to diconnect the fuel linle at the fuel pump and pum air back throuhj the tank using one of those little plastic handpumps that can pump air or liquids. If you are getting fuel to the carburetor inlet, the fuel pump is fine. some carburetors allow you to lift the top off. If your bowl is empty, your foat is sticking and not allowing fuel to enter. Trace the problem back, you should find the cause. |
