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1939 Easthope 8-12 trying to get it r...

Old Marine Engine » One and Two Cylinder Gas Inboards » 1939 Easthope 8-12 trying to get it running « Previous Next »

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fry_creek_repair
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Username: fry_creek_repair

Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2022
Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2022 - 03:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Hello, Im working on an Easthope for a friend of mine. It's been sitting for 16 years.
Here's a bit of history: my friend bought the engine in the '70's. It was in a rotten fishing boat. He got it reconditioned by one of the Easthope brothers in 1973. It was then fit in a converted steel life boat in Kaslo BC for use on the lake and was used reliably but not often until 16years ago when the boat was taken out of the water.

Its now back in the water and we're trying to get it running. After cleaning the points and carb we have had it running for short spurts but its not running properly and is difficult to start.

It has a Schebler model d carb, Ive adjusted it according to info I found online, needle 1 turn out ect... but im not familiar with these carbs (im a diesel mechanic). Any pointers would be great.

It also often backfires when trying to start it. But we have had it running.

Any tips or info on these engines would be great.

I will also try to upload some images.

Thanks-Stephen
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fry_creek_repair
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Username: fry_creek_repair

Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2022
Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2022 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

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fry_creek_repair
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Username: fry_creek_repair

Post Number: 3
Registered: 08-2022
Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2022 - 04:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

'Elly'
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kingfisher
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Username: kingfisher

Post Number: 47
Registered: 01-2013
Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2022 - 06:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I reckon you've done very well to get it runnning. The model D can be operated as a side draught or up draught. Yours looks like an up draught. Try mounting it as per the photo below. I've also included some notes on settings - I hope they are readable.

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fry_creek_repair
Member
Username: fry_creek_repair

Post Number: 4
Registered: 08-2022
Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2022 - 09:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Thanks for the reply, here's a pic of the carb. I cant read your pic unfotunatly.

The needle is loose in its threds, does not stay centered in hole when I adjust it and can see it from the top with the carb apart - if that makes sense. Not sure if this is normal or an issue?
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miro
Senior Member
Username: miro

Post Number: 1192
Registered: 11-2001


Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2022 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

The carb is notorious for dribbling when the engine is not running so watch carefully so you don't end up with a puddle of gasoline in the bilge.

Here I assume that you have a good ignition system - a hot, blue, noisy spark - this is crucial.

Step 1 - make a sharper point on the end of the needle valve - makes any adjustments less finicky.
There's a post on the CARB section on this topic.
Step 2 - close the needle valve to zero then open 1 1/4 to 1 1/3 turns.
It really doesn't matter much if the needle isn't centred in the valve nozzle. This is a primitive carb after all.
Step 3 -open the fuel from the gas tank and count to 5 - then close the fuel from the gas tank.
Step 4 - prime the engine
Step 5 start the engine. If it starts, then open the gas tank valve.

If it's running let it warm up a bit, then tweak the needle valve to make it run "better".

In my experience the updraft configuration is better than the side draft ( but not by much).

You'll see quite a bit of discussion about this ancient (patented 1902) carb in the CARB section for the web site.

There is some discussion about the air valve - but most of it will apply to 2 cycle engines that vary their engine RPMs - which I don't think appies to your boat.

miro
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miro
Senior Member
Username: miro

Post Number: 1194
Registered: 11-2001


Posted on Monday, August 15, 2022 - 10:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Now more about carbs in boats that need to run . . .

Here's the discussion about my adventures . . .
http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/3433/424644.html

I eventually DID make the change away from the Schebler, yes, OK, it's not authentic, but sure as heck works better than the Schebler plus it doesn't "die' when I'm in the middle of the lake.

Here are some pictures of the better 1920's carb.

one

A closer view of the set up . .

two

And a close up - you'll see that I made up an intake "manifold" so that the carb is an updraft configuration and has a good "fall" for the gravity fuel feed.

three

Since making this change the boat has been a really easy boat for cruising - very reliable.

The green garden hose is for the cooling water intake and the "thing" with the loonie is a flame suppressor in case of a backfire.
miro

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