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Tim Sullivan
New member
Username: onetim
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2019
| | Posted on Monday, December 16, 2019 - 12:57 pm: | 
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Picked up a Kermath 20hp, No. 10469 My start plan is to see if it can be freed up, and have started with just Kroil at this point, any tips?  |
Tim Sullivan
New member
Username: onetim
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2019
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2019 - 10:11 am: |
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Ok, how about some background on it, This is located on Pelee island ONT out in lake Erie, it was stored in a barn that blew down in 1973, and was stored in a 55 gallon drum from then till now. My guess is its around a 1925ish. The air supply going to the tappet? cover looks different.
Before trying to turn the engine i guess i should remove clean all drip oil lines, clean and fill the tail shaft grease cup, and direct oil all bearings, and kerosene soak the bores. |
Tim Sullivan
New member
Username: onetim
Post Number: 3
Registered: 12-2019
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2019 - 09:23 am: |
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Found a Kermath manual from approximately the same year as my engine at the Puget Sound Maritime museum. The director Alice Barnes has very kindly offered to send me a digital copy of the manual. |
miro forest
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 1063
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Friday, December 20, 2019 - 09:35 am: |
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Well, about 35 years in a drum - probably a combination of condensation and "set" have done a number on the pistons in those cylinders.
Most likely you'll eventually take the head off, but before you do that take your pick of penetrating stuff Kroil , PB Blaster, Auto transmission fluid plus acetone, and a lot of patient patient waiting.
After all it's taken over 3 decades to get it to this state.
You'll find that there will be one piston that just won't let go - and that's when you need to contain your enthusiasm .Some folks have worked engines like this for well over a year before they get results.
OR . . . maybe . . . you'll get lucky.
Once you get some movement, go back whence you came and do the "back and forth" sometimes only 10 or 20 thou. You'll eventually get there.
When you do get more movement, think about getting (forcing ?) very light grease or light oil into the bearings if you can, before turning the shafts (crank and cam) too much . The bearings are not usually the source of being "stuck".
You'll be hefting that engine up, down and around. Set yourself up in a "handy" workplace if you can including some kind of lifting arrangement.
Miro |
Ned Lloyd
Senior Member
Username: ned_l
Post Number: 207
Registered: 08-2012
| | Posted on Friday, January 10, 2020 - 03:33 pm: |
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OK, ....... That's a pretty neat engine! I will look forward to your updates. Good luck! |
Tim Sullivan
Member
Username: onetim
Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2019
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 18, 2020 - 11:17 am: |
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Sorry it's been a while, Thanks for the tips on freeing the engine, the head does not come off on this vintage, so the only hope is through the plug holes or from under. I figure I have 20 good years left, so I hope that's enough time, hehe |
miro forest
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 1071
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Friday, February 28, 2020 - 06:40 pm: |
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Here's some info on stuck engines that might give you a tip, although I think you are probably well along the way
That headless feature is a pain, ain't it.
https://www.gasenginemagazine.com/gas-engines/repairing-seized-engines
miro |
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