| Author |
Message |
    
wainair
New member
Username: wainair
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2018
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2018 - 04:38 pm: | 
|
Hi, I have been sifting through the forum lately, which is a huge wealth of information,but I haven�t seen much on the Dispro E1�s so I�m hoping someone out there has the knowledge that I need!!
Recently I bought a late 20�s Dippy and I�m starting the process of putting it back in working order. The motor, a Dispro E1, has good compression but was missing it�s ignition system and water intake hoses. I�ve sourced a buzzer coil but I�m not sure about the intake into the water pump. The forum won�t let me attach a picture. But there is an intake port in the keel then off the pump there is a open pipe pointing down off the starboard side of the pump. I�m guessing that the intake into the pump is connected by a hose to the infeed in the bottom of the boat, seems logical but there is opening on the eccentric lobe on the shaft that pumps the pump. Is that just an oiling cup or am I missing something?
If anyone knows I be grateful to hear! Thanks! |
wainair
New member
Username: wainair
Post Number: 2
Registered: 07-2018
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2018 - 04:49 pm: |
|
Also one more thing. The original spark plug for the motor has lost its threaded terminal, it is snapped off. Does anyone know what the replacement spark plug would be? |
wainair
New member
Username: wainair
Post Number: 3
Registered: 07-2018
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2018 - 07:01 pm: |
|
Woohoo I got it to upload!! so Iam guessing that #1 is the water intake into the pump, #2 is the oiling cup for the eccentric lobe on the shaft and #3 is the water intake through the keel? |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2464
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2018 - 07:14 pm: |
|
You are correct |
wainair
Member
Username: wainair
Post Number: 4
Registered: 07-2018
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2018 - 07:21 pm: |
|
Thanks Ernie!! |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 987
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2018 - 09:54 am: |
|
There should also be a drain for the muffler through the hull.
About 1/3 of the exhaust water goes there and the rest goes out through the muffler to cool it and quieten it.
Lots of good info at
http://disproboats.ca/
I use a modern version of the buzz coil - 2x the output voltage with about 1/2 the current. Easy to make with modern parts in an "olde" wooden box.
The spark plug is the same as used on a Model T Ford - uses a 1/2 pipe thread - lots of them around. If you are stuck, I'll send you one.
Where did you find the boat ?
miro |
wainair
Member
Username: wainair
Post Number: 5
Registered: 07-2018
| | Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2018 - 01:16 pm: |
|
I found it on Kijiji up near Ottawa. I�ve just come to the realization this morning that my Dippy is a 1946 Greavette. I found the serial number 46-8 stamped in the keel just a couple hours ago. So the motor is not the original. It should have a 9hp electric start St.Lawrence in it. Which also explains the three blade prop and aluminum device! So now my dilemma is do I try and source that motor and dash or do I stick with the Dispro?
I have lots of time to decide. The boat is pretty solid but it does need some wood work.
Thanks for the spark plug info Miro! I have been to the disproboats.ca site and they do have lots of great info there! I mailed in for membership last week and I�m waiting to hear back from them. |
keith
Senior Member
Username: keith
Post Number: 522
Registered: 02-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2018 - 10:35 pm: |
|
Tom, A great group of people are associated with the Dippy owners group. Lots of friendly advice and help. All your questions will be answered, all the help you need is there. Joining the DOA will allow you to enjoy your Dippy with a great bunch of people. You will have to involve you and you�re family in their regattas. You�re lucky to be close to the main activities. Good fortune with your progress. |
mikeyb
Member
Username: mikeyb
Post Number: 10
Registered: 02-2014
| | Posted on Friday, August 03, 2018 - 08:58 am: |
|
Tom I've been looking for an E-1 for my Dippy, so if you decide to go the St. Lawrence route please let me know. |
wainair
Member
Username: wainair
Post Number: 6
Registered: 07-2018
| | Posted on Friday, August 03, 2018 - 11:04 am: |
|
Thanks Keith, and yes mikeyb I'll keep you in mind if I decide to go the St.Lawrence route! |
narrabay
Advanced Member
Username: narrabay
Post Number: 46
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Monday, October 01, 2018 - 05:36 pm: |
|
Nice to see a Dispro being resurrected. Please keep us posted and maybe a video when it's done?!  |
spring
Advanced Member
Username: spring
Post Number: 35
Registered: 06-2018
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 02, 2018 - 03:54 pm: |
|
BTW A Model T spark plug cross references with I believe it is an A 525. I recently bought one at NAPA. Pricey at $30 CDN but correct.
Cheers! |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2486
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 03, 2018 - 06:00 am: |
|
Use Autolite 3095 $2.22 US at Rock Auto or Motorcraft F-11 usually less than 5 bucks.
Use the Repro Champion for display as it will foul rather quickly. The Autolite and Motorcraft plugs do not foul.
Hope this helps
Ernie |
spring
Advanced Member
Username: spring
Post Number: 36
Registered: 06-2018
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 03, 2018 - 01:09 pm: |
|
Ernie. That"s a valuable bit of intel to have. I had planned on acquiring a spare plug anyway. It looks like the Champion 525 will become the spare. Thanks.
Cheers! |
keith
Senior Member
Username: keith
Post Number: 526
Registered: 02-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, October 04, 2018 - 11:08 pm: |
|
Wainair, There are two people on this forum that have more experience and knowledge than the rest of us combined, that would be Ernie and JB. When they speak, you need to listen. For whatever it�s worth. Keith |
narrabay
Advanced Member
Username: narrabay
Post Number: 47
Registered: 05-2016
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2018 - 11:30 am: |
|
Richard Day is another. He explained to me how to properly adjust the mechanical crankcase breather on my Palmer YT to control crankcase oil. Simple enough procedure, but that I likely would never have properly figured out.
Not sure if this has anything on your water pump issue but I bought the book "The Greatest Little Motor Boat Afloat: The Legendary Disappearing Propeller Boat" and it's a great read. If you don't already have it, great book on Dispros. |
spring
Advanced Member
Username: spring
Post Number: 43
Registered: 06-2018
| | Posted on Saturday, November 03, 2018 - 09:16 am: |
|
Ernie. What should the plug gap be on the F11 or 3095?
Cheers! |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 1009
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, November 04, 2018 - 05:51 am: |
|
I usually make the gap about 30 - 35 thou .
This is a bit more than others, but I also use the modern version of the buzz coil that gives a good energetic spark. I suspect that there is sufficient energy in the spark to burn off any carbon build up.
I also try to keep the mixture as lean as I dare - just enough to keep it from backfiring and to reduce carbon build up.
On much higher speed engines the gap might affect timing , but on these slow turning engines that's not a problem and in any case the timing is variable on these slow engines.
The other advantage of the buzz coil is that at starting RPM,( 150 RPM more or less) you get multiple sparks when the timer makes the contact (depending on the engine timer type,you'll get 7 to 10 sparks) .
miro |
spring
Advanced Member
Username: spring
Post Number: 44
Registered: 06-2018
| | Posted on Sunday, November 04, 2018 - 06:48 am: |
|
Thanks Miro.
Two things. The first is that I will have a question WRT water pump that I am hoping you, or someone else can help me on. I'll post it under Adams once I've had a chance to do more poking around.
The second is that I have been enjoying your videos. I lost my brother this past May to cancer. He lived in Carencro, just outside Lafayette. For years, each March I would go down to visit with him and celebrate his birthday, the 14th. Seems we were both in the same neighbourhood at about the same time.
Cheers! |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2496
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, November 04, 2018 - 07:57 am: |
|
150 RPM??? Miro, is your Dippy electric start?
By the way spark plug gap really doesn't effect timing. Remember electricity travels at 186K miles per second. As to the number of sparks it depends on the frequency of your buzz coil. I am still using a real Ford T coil on 12 volts and it gives a lot more than 7 to 10 sparks.
Also as to the gap I have no idea.
What ever it came out of the box at. As long as you have enough voltage available the bigger the gap the less chance you have of a misfire. I guess the plug in my Gray right now is around .040 in.
Yes I run it as lean as I can. Just above the misfire point. Running dead slow the plug stays light tan with very little carbon. I am using 24 to 1 gas oil mix since it what my old OMC outboard use and both of my boats share gas tanks.
Hope this helps
Ernie |
mikeyb
Member
Username: mikeyb
Post Number: 13
Registered: 02-2014
| | Posted on Sunday, November 04, 2018 - 08:42 am: |
|
Since this topic started on water pump intake anyway...
What is inside that little pump? Is it tough to repair or rebuild? This is timely topic for me since I was replacing that same intake line today. |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 1010
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, November 04, 2018 - 06:42 pm: |
|
The water pump is quite simple, just a plug of brass moving up and down inside the bore of the pump.
There are 2 ball valves on to of the pump casting. These need to be seated so there are no leaks. The screw-on tops trap each of the respective balls in position.
The tops are different from each other so don't mix them up.
As for repair, the important thing is the packing seal around the bottom of the pump casting. Sometimes, the surface of the slug of brass that is the piston, isn't smooth and wears away the packing allowing it to suck air in. The packing is graphite string, so the simple remedy might be to put on a bit more ( 1 or 2 turns) of the packing.
miro |
spring
Advanced Member
Username: spring
Post Number: 46
Registered: 06-2018
| | Posted on Sunday, November 04, 2018 - 07:04 pm: |
|
The Adams motor manual (circa 1915) says that lamp wick or leather, coated in grease makes suitable packing. I've used lamp wick for packing together with a couple of wraps of teflon string. When I get to it, the prop shat stuffing box packing will likely also be lamp wick. Adams says that lamp wick wears faster than leather, but what the heck. |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2497
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Monday, November 05, 2018 - 05:01 pm: |
|
Miro,
I have received 11 e-mails yes eleven of them wondering what you meant.
Do I assume that your are meaning 2 ball type check valves on the top of the pump casting?
In our world graphite string is the easiest way to wear a pump piston. Just use Teflon packing. Be careful with Teflon string as it will cold flow. Spend the money and get some actual packing that is 3/16 in or so. It works much better than the 1/8 string that is readily available in just about every hardware store.
Hope this helps
Ernie |
spring
Advanced Member
Username: spring
Post Number: 48
Registered: 06-2018
| | Posted on Monday, November 05, 2018 - 06:01 pm: |
|
Thanks Ernie. When it comes to guidance, all donations much appreciated.
Cheers! |
bcm
Senior Member
Username: bcm
Post Number: 93
Registered: 11-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 06, 2018 - 10:08 am: |
|
This from Barry Millar.
The image illustrates operation of a reciprocating water pump as used with St Lawrence engines. The principal is the same for other pumps. I pack St Lawrence pumps with five rings of 3/32" square graphite impregnated packing. This is the correct size for St Lawrence however it is not easy to locate. 1/8" square seems to be the smallest stock size. I agree Teflon packing would be equal.
Note the balls are contained in cages so they are prevented from blocking ports.
This water pump description is just a small excerpt from an extensive technical document that I put together years ago that covers two cycle marine engine technology. Send me an email if you are interested in a copy.
 |
raa
Senior Member
Username: raa
Post Number: 189
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 06, 2018 - 12:47 pm: |
|
That 3 blade may be the correct one for your E1 just look for stamping should be 10x12 LH .I have a E1 which came with a device, recoil ,prop and E1 engine. Another great source for Dippy info I Paul Doddington the "Dippy Doctor". Paul is one of the originals and probably knows more than anyone this side of Mars. |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1397
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 06, 2018 - 07:05 pm: |
|
If you can't find small packing take a larger size and place it between two plates, squeeze in a press or vice, you'll have a rectangle piece that will fit. |
raa
Senior Member
Username: raa
Post Number: 190
Registered: 02-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 06, 2018 - 10:12 pm: |
|
I have some square waxed packing a bit too large to fit in E1 nut but you can squeeze it like JB says and it will fit. Waxed is the best if you can find it. I can send you some if you want?
Cheers
Dick |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 2498
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 07, 2018 - 07:54 am: |
|
I squeeze it with linemans pliers, 3/4 of an inch at a time. Or as JB says in a vise. I don't need the 2 plates as one of my vises has smooth jaws. |
