Author |
Message |
Ernie
Senior Member Username: ernie
Post Number: 2413 Registered: 01-2002
| Posted on Friday, November 17, 2017 - 11:15 am: |
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Here is a Detroit Coil Company Buzz Coil I recently repaired. One of the terminals was lose in the wood case so I took the back off the box to tighten it up. The first thing was the condenser that was in the way. It looked OK and later tested OK but since I was in there I replaced it with a modern one. I don,t know the value of the condenser I put in. I took it out of some sort of electronics. It just looked right and it works real good. I don't heat the tar to get it out. I just carefully chip it out of the way. Be careful with the OUCH wire. It is tiny and isn't easily repaired. The primary wires are 18 gauge or so and are easy to re-solder if need be. You can see the wire/terminal that I had to repair in the lower right of the above pic. Note the terminal labeling NO I did NOT put the nails in the top cover. It came that way and I left it alone since I didn't want to damage the label. |
Lew Dobbins
Senior Member Username: ldobbins
Post Number: 209 Registered: 12-2002
| Posted on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 - 01:57 pm: |
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Hi Ernie, What value is the replacement capacitor? Cheers, LEw |
Ernie
Senior Member Username: ernie
Post Number: 2415 Registered: 01-2002
| Posted on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 - 05:51 pm: |
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Lew, I don,t know the value of the condenser I put in. I took it out of some sort of electronics. It just looked right and it works real good. |
Ernie
Senior Member Username: ernie
Post Number: 2416 Registered: 01-2002
| Posted on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 - 06:30 pm: |
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Lew, I dug in by electronics stuff. The one I put in the coil is the first pic. I have no idea where it came from. The yellow and red ones I get from Mouser Electronics on the web. No minimum order. You can see the voltage is sort of on the low side on the one I put in the Detroit Coil. We will see how it lasts... Hope this helps Ernie By the way I have used both the red and yellow ones in Atwater Kent coils. When you have an Atwater Kent ign that makes a couple of sparks and then dies out it is usually in need of a condenser. It is in the coil. I just put it across the AK timer terminals on the coil and if that fixes the problem then I might maybe sort of kinda will take the coil apart and install the new condenser inside.
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Lew Dobbins
Senior Member Username: ldobbins
Post Number: 210 Registered: 12-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 - 01:30 pm: |
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Hi Ernie, Thanks for the values of the caps. I am assuming these values work well for those coils. The top cap is a .15 uF (Micro Farad) and the other two are .22 uF. Perfect! Cheers, Lew The Left Coast Sterling Guy! |
Ernie
Senior Member Username: ernie
Post Number: 2417 Registered: 01-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 - 07:19 pm: |
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I don't think they are all that fussy. Both work real good |
Lew Dobbins
Senior Member Username: ldobbins
Post Number: 211 Registered: 12-2002
| Posted on Thursday, November 23, 2017 - 02:10 am: |
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You are correct Ernie. But if the value is too high, you will get point metal migration on one side of the points and pitting on the other. If the capacitance is too low, the metal migration will be opposite. Cheers, Lew |
William Schaller
Senior Member Username: billschaller
Post Number: 693 Registered: 12-2003
| Posted on Thursday, November 30, 2017 - 01:51 am: |
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The Model T forum guys spend a lot of time on coils, a Model T has 4 of them. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/708324/708324.html?1512023753 One of the recomended caps is from these guys. http://www.funprojects.com/products/5007CAP-HiD.aspx |
miro forest
Senior Member Username: miro
Post Number: 943 Registered: 11-2001
| Posted on Saturday, December 02, 2017 - 06:28 pm: |
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I have found that a 0.1 or thereabouts works well ( it's not critical) , but the voltage rating needs to be a minimum of 600 V even though it nominally is working at 8 to 12 V . Some guys suggest 1000 V ratings. In any case they pretty small things and low cost, and can be tucked into the box . miro |