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Regal Model Y

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jim_parrott
Senior Member
Username: jim_parrott

Post Number: 124
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 11:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

My 2HP Regal leaks oil from the front of the crankshaft. Upon disassembly this was the sealing arrangement. It has a rope packing between the main bearing and a coned spacer held in by a large washer that just snaps in place. Before I adapt to a modern seal, does this look correct for this engine? I also would like a couple pics of the filler cap/breather for this standpipe if available. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Jim
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johnoxley
Senior Member
Username: johnoxley

Post Number: 172
Registered: 04-2010
Posted on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Also need to look at condition of crankshaft stub - Suspect will be corroded/worn, so lip seal will have short life. I usually fit Speedi sleeve stainless shaft sleeve so lip seal has better surface. Have also hard chromed similar problem shafts and this is another option. Expect will need to machine out front cover to take seal, which is a non-reversible action.
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jim_parrott
Senior Member
Username: jim_parrott

Post Number: 125
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Andrew,

My shaft is in good shape, and if I put a seal, it will be in an adaptor bushing so I don't have to machine the front cover. Hoping to verify if this method of sealing the crankshaft is original, and if so would like to make it work.

I think a check valve breather cap will help, and maybe turn down the oil pump flow a little.
I saw another Regal Y with a check breather cap, but it had a different filler pipe.

Thanks for your input.

Jim
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jim_parrott
Senior Member
Username: jim_parrott

Post Number: 126
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Saturday, January 21, 2017 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I found a picture of the cap and it should be easy enough to duplicate.
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robert
Senior Member
Username: robert

Post Number: 828
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Sunday, January 22, 2017 - 03:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

That does not look like proper graphite packing, which is still available from some marine suppliers.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=graphite+packing&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0a hUKEwiT47OU0tbRAhUri1QKHabtB-cQ_AUICCgB&biw=1024&bih=653
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jim_parrott
Senior Member
Username: jim_parrott

Post Number: 127
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Monday, January 23, 2017 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Robert,

It looks like the packing will also seal the drain passage at the 5 o clock position with this stack up. Is the drain just for the oil wicked from the packing? I may try a new packing, along with a breather cap and see what happens.

Thanks,
Jim
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jim_parrott
Senior Member
Username: jim_parrott

Post Number: 136
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Wednesday, April 05, 2017 - 09:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I installed an off the shelf lip seal from my local bearing supply. No machining was required. Fabricated a breather cap and the leak is fixed.



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robert
Senior Member
Username: robert

Post Number: 859
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Friday, April 07, 2017 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

I have no experience of these engines, but looking at your first photo again just now, I did wonder if the tapered-shoulder "washer" was perhaps meant to seat closely enough on the end of the main bronze bushing/bearing to make the seal without packing?

Does the angle on the "washer" match the angle on the end of the bushing? If the steel spring washer keeps the brass/bronze washer in tension then does it remain stationary or turn with the crankshaft?
If they were aiming at a seal without packing, then having the brass/bronze washer turn with the crank would make sense, since oil migrating along the main bushing would presumably lubricate it, and the drain hole you pointed out (that I missed before) would support that interpretation.

But if the brass/bronze washer did not turn with the crank, then it would need to be lubricated or it would be no more effective as a seal than the main crank bushing/bearing itself, in fact less so as it would wear more rapidly due to the lack of lubrication and perhaps stability between it and the crank.

On the other hand, there is nothing but friction to make it turn with the crank, so the whole concept is a bit illogical!

What do my elders and betters say?
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jim_parrott
Senior Member
Username: jim_parrott

Post Number: 137
Registered: 06-2009
Posted on Tuesday, April 11, 2017 - 07:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Robert

The tapered brass washer fits loosely on the crankshaft. I'm happy with the new seal, but will retain the brass washer with the engine.

Jim

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