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| New Palmer Owner w/ Questions |
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Message |
    
David V.
New member
Username: cdsailor
Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2016
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 01:15 pm: | 
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I tried a couple searches but didn't turn up what I'm looking for. I recently bought a '71 Morgan 30 with a Palmer 60. After tightening the alternator belt, I'm now getting what I suspect is bearing noise/vibration. I haven't yet pulled the alternator to check for play, but should it need replacement, is a replacement available?
My second question: My oil pressure gauge is not functioning. I'm inclined to start with a new sender and gauge. Is the tread size for the oil pressure sending unit standard?
So far this board has been very educational. I look forward to your replies.
David
PS - Some boat and engine photos are available on my blog: http://morgan30sailboat.blogspot.com |
Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 346
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 02:19 pm: |
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With alternators and starters through the years I've always liked to bring them to a good auto electric shop and have them rebuild mine rather than exchange it. Your alternator must be a marine approved one by law and for your safety. |
David Grosse
Senior Member
Username: davidg
Post Number: 66
Registered: 11-2010
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 02:36 pm: |
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Hello David V.
Congratulations on your purchase.
If you are looking to replace your alternator, new and improved Prestolite units are available with an internal regulator and fewer wires to hook up. Other than that, they are a direct replacement.
If you discover that the alternator bearing is not the source of your vibration, it could be the bearing that holds the driver pulley on the engine.
Most all senders use a 1/8" NPT thread. You can also get a direct mount pressure gauge that you could put into the oil filter tap, or buddy it up with a sender.
Good Luck,
David Grosse
David's Yacht Service |
kevin stone
Senior Member
Username: kdstone
Post Number: 67
Registered: 01-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 08:10 pm: |
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Check your pulley set screws to make sure they are tight and aligned |
David V.
New member
Username: cdsailor
Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2016
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2016 - 04:44 pm: |
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Gentlemen,
Thank you for your replies. I will pull the alternator and check it for play. Eddie, I'll look into a rebuild, if necessary. Good tip, Kevin, on the pulley set screws; I would never have known.
And thanks, David, for information about the alternator and the sending unit.
I seem to recall reading somewhere on here about how to test the "steam escape" from the forward portion of the head to the thermostat housing, but I can't find it now. I think it involved pulling one end of the hose and checking for water flow?
Thanks for the help!
David |
David Grosse
Senior Member
Username: davidg
Post Number: 69
Registered: 11-2010
| | Posted on Friday, September 09, 2016 - 07:17 pm: |
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David V.
Yes the "steam escape" is to prevent steam from being trapped inside the cylinder head in a marine application.
You should verify flow in both directions as well as through the hose. Salt water build up can prevent flow, thereby causing your cylinder head to crack.
Verify flow by removing the hose, blowing through it, then blowing into each fitting through the hose. You should have good airflow all three ways.
David Grosse |
David V.
New member
Username: cdsailor
Post Number: 3
Registered: 09-2016
| | Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2016 - 09:34 pm: |
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David,
Thanks for the information. I pulled the hose and blew through it while it was still attached to the manifold side. Water squirted out of the fitting on the head. When I blew through the fitting on the head, water squirted out of the manifold side. Is this normal?
Another question: My engine idle is a bit erratic, meaning sometimes it idles low, and sometimes the idle suddenly increases. Eventually the idle will come back down. Sometimes it idles fairly low; other times it idles fairly high. Otherwise, the engine runs pretty smoothly.
What could be causing this?
The previous owner installed an electric fuel pump that appears to be rated at 4psi. I think the manual indicates a 1.5psi pump? Could that have anything to do with it?
I've also noticed fuel at (what I believe is) the idle adjustment screw at the bottom of the carb. I'm thinking it may be wise to pull the carb this winter and do a rebuild. Doing so would establish a maintenance "baseline," so to speak, but it could also create more troubles, I suppose. Thoughts?
While the engine was running today in the slip, I used an infrared thermometer to take several readings since I didn't know if the engine temp gauge was accurate. My readings were between 130s and 150s, with most readings falling somewhere in between - average was probably about 140. I'm in Lake Michigan, by the way, so no worries about salt. I was pleased to see that the thermometer and gauge were close to agreement.
Sorry for all of the questions, but I've got another: I'm thinking about removing the Morgan 30 exhaust system and installing a water lift muffler. My thinking is that I'd rather not wait for the inner pipe to corrode and allow water into the engine. Are there any tried and true conversions for the Palmer when it comes to a water lift system?
Thanks again! This board is a wonderful resource.
David |
David V.
Member
Username: cdsailor
Post Number: 5
Registered: 09-2016
| | Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2016 - 08:20 pm: |
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Got a few great responses initially, then nothing. Hoping someone might be willing to answer my questions in the post above, plus another:
What would be the harm, if any, in plugging the coolant bypass that comes off my manifold and attaches at my raw water intake? I gather this is some form of pre-heat to warm incoming raw water.
Thanks,
David |
David Grosse
Senior Member
Username: davidg
Post Number: 74
Registered: 11-2010
| | Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2016 - 01:41 pm: |
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Hi David,
Since you are in Lake Michigan, I recommend that you keep your thermostat in good condition, and that you retain the return water line to the intake valve area. Otherwise, the engine will run very cold, and not efficiently. The Dole thermostat is designed to route engine cooling water to recycle until a warm engine temperature is established, and then let some water be discharged to keep it cool enough.
As an alternative you could convert to one that holds the water flow until it is warm, like in a car, but I would prefer to have the water flowing through the engine at all times so that the engine heat is equalized throughout the engine, not just hot around the cylinders. Also, you are probably equipped with a positive displacement water pump (like a Sherwood E20), and they like to move water all the time.
Regarding the earlier post:
-- yes it is normal when you break open a water cooling system and blow into one end that water will come out the other end.
-- yes it would be good to rebuild your carb. the leakage at the adjustment jet can be stopped with a new gasket and proper tightening.
-- yes, erratic idle as you describe sounds like fuel problems. Your carb should handle fuel pressure from 1.5 to 4.0 psi. The float and main shut off needle may need reset and replaced.
-- yes, the temps you measured are good. 140 operating is what most engines are set for. cylinder heads and exhaust manifolds can get hotter, but if your cooling system works well, you should be able to touch both while they are running.
I hope this helps out, and you can get on with enjoying your Morgan when the season opens.
David Grosse
David's Yacht Service
SoCal |
David V.
Member
Username: cdsailor
Post Number: 6
Registered: 09-2016
| | Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2016 - 07:13 pm: |
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David,
Thank you for the reply! It's much appreciated.
I don't suppose you have any input regarding converting to a waterlift exhaust system, do you?
Thanks,
David |
Sam Kronick
Member
Username: kronick
Post Number: 10
Registered: 06-2016
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2016 - 12:07 pm: |
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David V- Converting from an older type exhaust to a waterlift system is exactly what the previous owner on my Islander 30 did. He skimped on the height of the riser before the water injection point (because there wasn't enough room under the cabin sole) and I believe it has led to some serious damage on my engine with saltwater backing up into the engine. See my other thread here: http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/3430/272421.html
Lots of guides online about waterlift muffler installation, but please please pay attention to the minimum dimensions for all parts of the system and consider that your boat while sailing and heeling will have water sloshing around in every direction-- if in doubt, give yourself plenty of leeway, or risk a salty engine! |
David V.
Member
Username: cdsailor
Post Number: 7
Registered: 09-2016
| | Posted on Monday, December 12, 2016 - 03:07 pm: |
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Sam,
Thank you for the input. Yes, I'd read your post earlier. Sorry for your troubles, but good information to keep in mind!
David |
David Grosse
Senior Member
Username: davidg
Post Number: 77
Registered: 11-2010
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 12:42 pm: |
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Hi David,
The water lift conversion is fairly straight forward. There are two basic muflers that I am aware of, Vetus makes a small version about the size of a shoe box, and the traditional fiberglass round drum type, which comes in various sizes.
Key factors to remember are the 4" drop that Sam mentioned, and the angle of the exhaust hose from the discharge to the exhaust at the stern of the boat.
It is best if the discharge hose goes up, and then has a "down hill" slope to the back of the boat. That minimizes the amount of water to push out.
The engine exhaust pipe needs to come up, then down to get to the muffler, with the water injection at least 4" below the high point in the piping. That is to prevent backflow from the injected water into the engine.
Also, as a basic rule, it is better to have the raw water inlet turned off until your engine starts, then turn it on immediately. If your engine is hard to start, and you crank it for a long time with the valve open, you will pump a lot of water into the exhaust system, with no exhaust gas to push it out. That problem has caused a lot of engine failures.
Give me a call if you want to talk about it.
Happy Holidays,
David Grosse
David's Yacht Service |
David V.
Member
Username: cdsailor
Post Number: 10
Registered: 09-2016
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2016 - 01:04 pm: |
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David,
Thank you for your reply. Good information. You provide a value resource here and through your parts. It's nice to know there are knowledgeable people out there and the necessary parts to keep these engines going. Thanks again!
David |
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