| Author |
Message |
    
Alan Miller
| | Posted on Monday, November 03, 2003 - 11:51 pm: | 
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I am looking for a source to have a crack welded in the head of a PW 27. |
Richard Day
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2003 - 08:23 pm: |
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Is it a salt water crack or fresh water crack?
If its a salt water crack your best bet assuming you cannot find a replacement head is to mill one out of aluminum. Take two plates and mill the outside to conform to the original head. separate the two plates and mill out water passages drill holes etc and then reassemble them. I have seen this done once and the end result was a creditable head that worked very well. |
rholcomb
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2003 - 09:07 pm: |
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Hhere is picture of a head i think dick was describing it came off a pw-27 i have...
 |
rholcomb
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2003 - 09:34 pm: |
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here is an assembled view
 |
Alan Miller
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 04, 2003 - 11:55 pm: |
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Its a fresh water engine the cylinder is good. It appears as though is was over heated. My machene shop tells me cold pinning method may not work well. So I'm looking for a shop that specializes in welding cast iron. The aluminum head sounds like a possibility. Thanks
Alan Miller |
marks
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 05, 2003 - 10:58 pm: |
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Thanks Guys,
The head above has solved a problem I've been working on for a while. I have two CLAE twins and both the heads are cracked.
I've been fiddling about for a while working out how to cast them in aluminium or bronze. I've built a couple of furnaces which have the capacity to melt enough metal.
The pattern has been a issue. Basically I have been using expanded foam pieces carved out to the right shape and then glued together to form the water jackets (lost foam method).
However no matter what I try for cores it always seems to move.
As soon as I saw the above pictures the solution is simple, make the heads in two pieces. That way I don't have to worry about cores.
regards
Mark S. |
miro
| | Posted on Saturday, November 08, 2003 - 12:17 am: |
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Got as friend that's got the same challenge - cracked head on a 1952 Coventry Victor head - and worse - somebody tried brazing it with less than good results - this seems to be the answer
Miro |
K Klees
| | Posted on Friday, January 09, 2004 - 08:17 am: |
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Try "lock - and - stitch" pins. They have a web site. Very interesting products, I used it to repair several cracks in a 1920's Buda.
Kevin Klees |
Andy Hall
New member
Username: ahall
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2012
| | Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2012 - 09:53 am: |
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My Palmer PW-27 cylinder head just rusted through the bottom surface. I had it brazed, but without success. Now I'm inspired by Rholcomb's 11/4/03 post to make a new 2 piece al. head. Studying his pictures it appears that all the hollowing out for cooling water was done in the upper, thinner half,leaving the full thickness of the lower half(about 1")over the combustion chamber. Am I right? Does anyone have any words of wisdom before I start this project? Thanks Jeff |
Robert Holcomb
Senior Member
Username: rholcomb
Post Number: 60
Registered: 10-2004
| | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 07:35 am: |
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still have the aluminum head. do you want it??? |
jeff hall
New member
Username: s_jeff
Post Number: 1
Registered: 12-2012
| | Posted on Friday, December 07, 2012 - 04:25 pm: |
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Yes I want it. Don't you need it? Thanks Jeff(ahall's dad) |
jeff hall
New member
Username: s_jeff
Post Number: 3
Registered: 12-2012
| | Posted on Saturday, April 27, 2013 - 04:44 pm: |
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Thanks Richard Day and Robert Holcomb for the idea that saved my PW-27 from the junkyard.
I made an aluminum cylinder head like the pictures above and it works great.
Cheers,
Jeff |
jeff hall
Member
Username: s_jeff
Post Number: 4
Registered: 12-2012
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 17, 2014 - 02:07 pm: |
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All is not well with aluminum head.I removed it after one season(in salt water)because water flow appeared restricted. Found white paste in water holes. I washed it away and found substantial corrosion around the holes.A book on corrosion suggests "galvanic corrosion",disimilar metals which are electrically connected and exposed to an electrolite.I have removed the electrical connection by insulating the head and magneto from the cylinder and connecting them together with a wire.The motor is back in service,but only time will tell if this works Jeff |
J.B. Castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 931
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 17, 2014 - 10:43 pm: |
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I think your head is acting a a sacrificial anode. It's probably saving the block. I would consider running a heat exchanger if you want to have it around a while. |
mickey
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, June 28, 2014 - 07:21 pm: |
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I have a palmer p-60 eng#80166-74 that had the head rust out a 4X 2 in chunk.out of it i am looking for a new head or a way to fix her. mic |
Ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 1843
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Sunday, June 29, 2014 - 06:36 am: |
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The Palmer P 60 is actually an IHC cub engine.
Heads are easy to find. You can get a marine head gasket from Gaskets to Go. Do NOT use a tractor head gasket.
Use the search function at the top there is a ton of P 60 in fo on this web page
Hope this helps
Ernie |
jeff hall
Member
Username: s_jeff
Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2012
| | Posted on Sunday, June 29, 2014 - 12:32 pm: |
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I'm hoping that by electrically insulating the aluminum head from the block it will no longer act as a sacrificial anode,and will only be subjected to "simple electrochemical corrosion",a slower process.That's what my *book leads me hope for anyway.I would like to go to heat exchanger but it seems quite complicated. *THE BOAT OWNERS GUIDE TO CORROSION by E.Collier Jeff |
