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| Overheating on a volvo penta 2003turb... |
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gary
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, February 15, 2005 - 04:36 pm: | 
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Dear sir or madam
When I navigate the boat which is a shadow 26ft with a Volvo penta 2003t diesel engine at 25000rpm the boat runs perfect, if I run the boat at 30000rpm then after about 5 minutes the engine overheats, I was advised by a so called experienced and qualified marine engineer that the sea cock was blocked and needed replacing, this I had done, the overheating problem remained as before, he then said that the head gasket must be blown and said that the it would need changing and he also said the head would need skimming. I followed his advice and had that done. The overheating problem still exists. He now suggests that I replace the heat exchanger... as you can imagine I am totally shocked and depressed over this ridiculous situation that I find myself in. He is an approved Volvo penta dealer , surely I should some kind of compensation from this cowboy, your views on the overheating problem would be appreciated and
any ideas on what to do with this dodgy trader who is bringing Volvo's good name into disrepute and who is certainly giving marine engineers an unfair bad reputation
Yours hopefully
Gary |
dwilson
New member
Username: dwilson
Post Number: 2
Registered: 05-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 25, 2005 - 09:35 pm: |
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Gary,
I assume you have serviced the pump/impeller on this engine?
If that is the case check the injector elbow on the exhaust where the raw water, after going through the heat exchanger, is pumped into the exhaust pipe and then overboard. This elbow gets blocked up with soot/exhaust/oil coke etc from the engine and ultimately can block the water outlet. No raw water circulation means no cooling of heat exchanger means overheating.
regards
David |
Donald McKonly
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, July 11, 2005 - 12:54 pm: |
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I have an overheating problem on my volvo penta 2003. At 2500 rpm's it might run 30 to 45 minutes before it will overheat. I ran it about 2 hours before it overheated at 1700 rpm's. I did the following: checked raw water strainer, check the impeller, checked the heat exchanger and cleaned it best I could, although it does have two of the tubes sealed off, checked and cleaned the exhaust elbow, checked the anti-siphon end, checked the thermostat, checked to see if the instument was reading correctly.
The water flow out the exhaust seems to be normal. Any idea on what the water temperature difference should be on the fresh water side from when it enters the heat exchanger to when it exits the heat exchanger? Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Don |
Yngve Levin
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 19, 2006 - 09:38 am: |
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Hi
even if is a little late. I have the same problem as Donald and Gary. I took apart every piece including the 2 pumps, exchanger, oilchiller, blew the pipes .... etc but nothing - not even a clue. But someone gave me this tip that I now will try;
There is an orifice (a rubber insert put into the water pipe exiting the turbo - it has a hole smaller than the pipe diameter to reduce flow) in the cooling water line exiting the turbo, this orifice moved down the line to the "tee" where it intersects the line exiting the thermostat thereby partially blocking flow back to the heat exchanger. I disassembled the piping pushed the orifice back to clear the "tee" and slightly krimped the pipe to prevent a repeat problem. |
toni_masriera
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, January 13, 2007 - 01:57 pm: |
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Hello,
I had exactly the same overheating problem caused by this small orifice flow restrictor. (The plastic moves forward in the pipe and blocks the exit to the intercooler)
This part is not in the technical documents issued by VOLVO; so is really difficult to imagine that.
Aat the end; many. many hours of trials, assembly and disassembly, and only ten minutes to solve the real problem (When you know this) |
Terry Ford
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, August 12, 2007 - 04:19 am: |
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I have had overheating when the impellor fell apart. The heat travelled up the exhast pipe and melted the end of the plastic water trap...right in the middle of nowhere!! My motor is a raw water cooled 2003 and now all fixed, but Does anyone know how hot the exhaust elbow should be under normal running. I can put my hand on it but not for too long. The new water trap box gets hot too, but water exit is ok and normal. Appreciate any help. I am in tropical waters by the way. |
tackdriver
New member
Username: tackdriver
Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 09, 2009 - 09:02 am: |
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I have to say a huge thanks to Yngve Levin for that tip. It was exactly the same on my motor, and in addition the plastic thing was gummed up with crud. I drilled it out and bashed it back into place - fixed! All done on anchor in about 1/2 an hour. Best to have a spare o-ring for the exhaust end as this had melted on mine and was looking sad. Luckily there was a spare in the spares box.
Thanks again.
JMB |
Eric Neilsen
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, August 01, 2010 - 11:29 pm: |
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My question is; Why isn't Volvo Penta responding to any of these questions? |
Les Bellinger
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 12, 2011 - 07:13 am: |
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A big thanks to Yngve Levin!
We have had an overheating problem on our 2003T Volvo Penta. We stripped the pump, raw and fresh water, removed the heat exchanger, which wasn't easy as I'm no mechanic, and was about to replace everything, without really finding a problem, when I found the solution here.
If i hadn't read this I would have never checked the pipe.
Sure enough there was a plastic lug, a hole in one end, but completely sealed on the turbo side. In my cas it had moved past the 'T' towards the thermostat.
I had to remove it then drill it out.
I have crimped the end to stop it moving again, but how it melted and sealed, I don't know.
I am just waiting for some new gaskets, then I'll get it back together and see if the problem is solved. |
Yngve Levin
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2011 - 01:40 pm: |
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Hi guys!
to Toni Masriera - thanks for explaining my great longer text!
Eric Neilsen: Yes, but then again this is a generic and global problem and not only Volvos according to my experience - but on the grass root level we are ALL FRIENDS
to tackdriver and Les Bellinger: It worked didnt it! I am glad that you showed your joy for me ( I saw it only today) It has passed now 5 years and my boat has been moving out from Turkey to Venezuela - never again any overheating problem. I want to add also that I have removed the thermostate - only needed in latitudes over 35. |
Colin Ireson
Visitor
| | Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2012 - 06:27 pm: |
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Hi guys,
I have twin Volvo Pentas 2003T 43hp on my 22ft boat, in Channel Islands waters. The port engine overheats at around 1800rpm, once the boat reaches about 9knots, and after a very short running time, i.e. less than 15mins. I am no mechanic, identifying the engine parts is challenge enough, RYA course not enough depth. How easy is Yngve's solution to the untrained hand plse? Engines have just been serviced by agents who have looked at the problem before! I am about to go back to them - displeased! If I keep the revs down, the overheating alarm doesn't sound! Many thanks |
tackdriver
New member
Username: tackdriver
Post Number: 2
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Saturday, July 21, 2012 - 08:02 pm: |
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Colin,
I did mine on anchor behind Sandy Hook leaving New York. It took about 15 minutes. The only trap is that the o-rings might need to be replaced - especially the one at the turbo which gets cooked. You need to make a new gasket for the thermostat housing. I used the cover of a novel.
Otherwise a socket set is all you need.
cheers
JMB |
Colin Ireson
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, July 23, 2012 - 02:36 am: |
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Many thanks for the speedy reply JMB. Is there a better handbook which identifies the engine parts? The owners "manual" is so basic (to me!) in its drawings that I need something more detailed. My e mail is [email protected] if anyone has a link they can send.
Thanks again. |
Paul Wellon
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 04:49 pm: |
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to Colin Iresson.
Yngve's solution really really works, I did it tonight in less than 15 minutes when trained marine mechanics were proposing huge dismantling proposals. Bless you Yngve. Colin, if you reply I can send you pictures. An Englishman in Sweden.
Tusen tack Yngve. |
Jim Layer
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 05:28 pm: |
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I have the same over heating problem on a 6 cylinder TAMD 63 new water pump cleaned heat exchanger which came out clean and looked almost new. Runs 150 degrees at idle and below 2000 rpm over 2000 rpm she starts climbing until over heat looked at after coolers but they look clean as well. any suggestions and is this plastic piece every one is talking about on a 6 cylinder as well? |
James Plyler
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 12:31 pm: |
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Hello Yngve, Jim in Lyme, Ct. I have a 2003t also. My impeller blew a few fins last year and I am taking apart the Fresh and salt water piping as well as the heat exchangerto make sure there are no pieces floating around.The small plastic orifice you speak of does that go adjacent to the turbo exhaustat. The very end of the pipe as it enters the exhaust? Thanks for any help. Jim Plyler Ketch Dovekie} |
tackdriver
New member
Username: tackdriver
Post Number: 3
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Monday, January 28, 2013 - 05:08 pm: |
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Jim,
the plastic 'orifice' plug moves around in the pipe, so it could be anywhere between the 'T' junction and the turbo. Stick a rod of some sort down there and bang it out - you may as well clean it and then crimp it in place while you are at it, as it will eventually move down and cause this problem that started the thread.
cheers
JMB |
roger lewis piggott
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 08:36 pm: |
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ALL,
is the plastic orifice really needed?
why not just remove it and prevent the problem from ever happening again? |
tackdriver
Member
Username: tackdriver
Post Number: 4
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 26, 2013 - 09:21 pm: |
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Roger,
a fair question. I'd have to guess Volvo put it in there because they found some problem with over-cooling the turbo. What that might be, I'm not sure. The design does seem to be a last minute thing, due to the lack of acknowledgement in the documentation, and the fairly shoddy implementation.
You could remove it, and then you'll eventually find out why they put it there, or not.
Let us know if you try!
cheers
JMB |
dawson
New member
Username: dawson
Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2015
| | Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2015 - 08:21 pm: |
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hi I have a Volvo tamd63l-a 6 cylinder with a keel cooler that is over heating at 1500 rpm, I put a knew thermostat in it but it still over heats if I run it up to 1800 rpm the temp goes to 210,i checked the keel cooler pipes and they seem to be clear and they are made of 2 inch pipe, just wondering if you could help thanks, john? |
Patrick Akkermans
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 05:54 am: |
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Hello, this is a very helpfull topic.
We have the same overheaiting problem now with our 2003T 45 hp engine.
I read about the solution of the orifice flow restrictor worked with some of you.
I also see that the solutions were posted in about 2009, does anybody knows if it is still working that way after so many years? |
tackdriver
Member
Username: tackdriver
Post Number: 5
Registered: 09-2009
| | Posted on Monday, April 11, 2016 - 06:08 am: |
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Hi Patrick,
I think this issue is more likely to occur the older the motor is. Its really very easy to fix, so just pull the pipe off and have a look.
cheers
JMB |
Joe Monti
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 03, 2016 - 02:35 pm: |
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Hi, a couple of posters asked if this fix applies to the 2003 tamd 63p 6 cylinder motors? I have a similar overheating problem and if this applies that is where I want to start. Thanks. |
Diver Rob
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2016 - 11:32 am: |
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Hi Joe,
I have two 96 vintage 63P's and if you have checked the raw water pump, and the intercooler and heat exchanger for the engine, the next likely thing is a plugged exhaust elbow. Mine well packed full of various calcium carbonite growth, and were not allowing raw water to discharge properly. if the elbows are removed, and you try and put water through the discharge fitting you will see if it flows easily with nice spray, or if it is plugged up. The lack of ability to discharge raw water causes the engine to heat up. I have had this apart, and did not see any plastic orifice anywhere. Note that the model of engine was not identified in most of those postings.
Rob |
brian_castelino
New member
Username: brian_castelino
Post Number: 1
Registered: 03-2019
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 27, 2019 - 11:15 am: |
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Hello all, I believe I have a solution to a common problem. I have a 45hp 2003T fitted to my 1989 Dehler 38. The reason for the plastic restrictor in the pipe that links the turbo charger to the thermostat housing and which has a 'T' to take water from both the turbo and the thermostat, down to the heat exchanger is to control the flow of water. Before the thermostat opens all cooling water (on the fresh water side) flows through the engine, through the turbo, through the restrictor, out of the 'T' jubction and on to the heat exchanger. This effectively bypasses the thermostat. Without the restrictor which is a plastic 'bung' in the pipe with a small approx 5mm hole in it, too much water will flow through theturbo (giving a lovely cool turbo) but because it bypasses the thermostat, the thermostat will never open and the engine will never reach its proper temperature. i.e. even at full power here in England in the winter after 30 minutes running the turbo housing was cool enough to touch! You can clean out this restrictor after removing the pipe. A blocked restrictor will cause the turbo to overheat, causing the water in it to turn to steam and will push the water level down from the top of the engine, eventually forcing it in the reverse direction up into the header tank and blowing out. I discovered all this while fixing an overheating problem with my engine which was caused by a blocked hole, of similar diameter in the bleed 'nipple' in the thermostat housing which is then connected to the header tank by a small diameter rubber hose. This is hole tiny (2mm diameter) but essential!!! You can clean out this restrictor with a 2mm drill rotated between your fingers. It allows any air to bleed out of the system into the header tank. If it gets blocked then the thermostat (being at the top of the engine) will sit in air and not water. As the engine warms up the water will never touch the thermostat and so it will never open and so the engine will overheat, causing water to be pushed down from the top of the engine and up into the header tank via the large diameter hose that enters the bottom of the header tank. Water will then be pushed up out of the filler cap. If this continues the engine will seriously overheat and at very least will warp the head and blow the head gasket. This happened to me on my last 2003T engine and all because of the blockage in the tiny hole in the 'bleed nipple' in the thermostat housing. I hope this helps. Brian Castelino, Leamington Spa and Fareham, England. |
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