| Author |
Message |
    
benmaser
New member
Username: benmaser
Post Number: 1
Registered: 04-2012
| | Posted on Monday, April 09, 2012 - 07:28 pm: | 
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My 1950 MLO has always run hotter than the starboard ML. It runs in the 180-190 range at 1600 rpms after warm up, and the starboard engine runs at a perfect 150. These are close cooled engine with a heat exchanger. I have tried many things to get this to stop including:
New head gaskets
New raw water and rebuilt engine antifreeze circulating pumps
New proper thermostats
The heat exchangers are clear
The exhaust water is of adequate flow on each side
I am frustrated with this as it seems that the port engine should not run that hot (it sometimes gets up to 210-215, especially as I power down the engines.
The engines both run smoothly.
Any ideas out there? The one that worries me is that the water channels in the block may be clogged. If this is the case then i am look at a rebuild (bummer).
Thanks |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 621
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 04:58 pm: |
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I don't think a re-build would be necessary.
You can pull the head off the port engine to get at the water passages, and in particlar, since you'll have the head off and on a bench, you can get at the passages in the head.
Yes, you'll need to get a new head gasket, but apart from that, not much else.
I don't think you'll have to pull the exhaust / intake manifold.
All of this can be done without removing the engine from the boat ( albeit - your knees are going to know about it) .
And please resist the temptation to do a valve job - from what you've said, the engine is OK.
Yes, it might be a bit of work, but nothing like an engine rebuild.
miro |
benmaser
New member
Username: benmaser
Post Number: 2
Registered: 04-2012
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2012 - 01:36 am: |
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Thanks for the reply! So I can get to the passages in the block by removing the head? What would be the best way to clean them out once I have the head off? I have been told that the only way to get them cleaned out is to put the block in an oven and "bake" the gunk away. Is there a tool that will get into the passages and allow me to clean them out without removing the engine?
Thanks!! |
gonzo
Advanced Member
Username: gonzo
Post Number: 34
Registered: 06-2011
| | Posted on Friday, April 13, 2012 - 02:28 pm: |
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How did you measure the temperature in the engines? |
benmaser
New member
Username: benmaser
Post Number: 3
Registered: 04-2012
| | Posted on Friday, April 13, 2012 - 02:45 pm: |
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Gauge and infrared gun |
Dale Fransen
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 03:16 pm: |
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I have a way of clearing the water jacket.
Have you solved the problem yet? |
benmaser
Member
Username: benmaser
Post Number: 4
Registered: 04-2012
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 18, 2012 - 03:22 pm: |
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Not yet, would love to know your suggestion! |
howitzers
New member
Username: howitzers
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2013
| | Posted on Sunday, November 03, 2013 - 10:18 pm: |
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Your problem is very common. Guys will completely rebuild one of those engines and still have them overheating. One common cause is the exhaust manifolds which get clogged up with rust & scale and are pretty difficult (Read impossible) to clean out the manifolds. There are passages that feed back and forth from the exh manifold to the block that get plugged. You should be able to see hot spots in various placed with your infra red temp. gun. Replacement manifolds are being made from cast aluminum. Jim Staib sells them. He's in McHenry Illinois His phone is:815-344-9663 |
