| Author |
Message |
    
johnk
New member
Username: johnk
Post Number: 1
Registered: 01-2007
| | Posted on Friday, January 12, 2007 - 06:50 am: | 
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Hello,
I have a Volvo MD2 with a Bosch Dynostart. I am rewiring the engine and found that the earth terminal (31) is wired to one of the small terminals on the solenoid and the other small terminal on the solenoid has one wire going to the ignition switch and a second wire that went to the aft end of the generator, possibly to the engine block earth. I am not sure if it did go there because the wire was in fact broken, but the length indicates going to a terminal at the aft end (non-pulley) of the dynostart unit.
The wiring diagram in the Volvo manual shows that the terminal 30h on the regulator should be attached to the generator.
The engine functioned perfectly with this wiring.
Any comments? Should I rewire as I found it, or should I earth the regulator from terminal 31 and attach the ignition circuit to terminal 30h?
Help greatly appreciated! |
oslin04
New member
Username: oslin04
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2006
| | Posted on Friday, January 12, 2007 - 11:38 am: |
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Hi,
The two smaller dia terminals next to each other are for the charge control box and letter marks are stamped in to the casting ie B+ and F, to match up with the regulator box,the other larger one is for the dynostart, the unit must be earthed either through the block or if wired on an earth return system, back to the battery.
Regarding the earth wire on the solenoid, it sounds as if the ignition switch might be being used to switch the earth? this should NOT be the case, it is the power that should be switched, so when the ignition switch is off the circuit is dead, having said that the solenoid will have one earth wire going back to the block or battery to complete the circit for the secondary side IE the clicking you hear when the ignition switch is turned to start, thus connecting the main power to the starter via the two heavy wires, one to the battery and the other to the starter.
It is common practice to take a power lead from the battery side of the solenoid for the instrument pannel,lights etc, via a fuse box for the same, these circuits are shut down via the main battery switch.
Hope this helps Keith |
Rod
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, September 01, 2008 - 08:54 am: |
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HI
I desperatly need help with a wiring diagrame for an MD2 diesel for my dayboat in the process of being put back together.As i am a complete idiot on electrics the instructions need to be foolproof.The engine has a Dynostart with a seperate solenoid and regulator .
There is also a temp gauge ,oil pressure light,and rev counter together with a charging light.Can anybody help please .Regards Rod. |
adsum
Member
Username: adsum
Post Number: 5
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Monday, September 01, 2008 - 03:55 pm: |
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Find a manual with diagrams at:
http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/global/en-gb/marine_leisure_engines/engines/out_ of_production_engines/ |
richard luskateer
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 08:51 am: |
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Hi,
I'm in need of some help with a Md2 volvo marine engine. The wiring is mostly messed up. It has a Dyno-start generator. I tried the link above and had no luck with it. It's a 1972 motor i think. Could use a wiring schematic
thanks for any help.
rich |
eric
Member
Username: eric
Post Number: 13
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, February 06, 2010 - 02:29 pm: |
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I am like you Richard and also find that that link does not work. on the regulator there are two heavy duty wires, one direct to the battery and the other direct to the dynostart, the next wire operates the internal solonoid linking the two heavy wires together thus starting the engine. this wire has to go through the ignition switch or starter button back to the pos battery. the next wire along is the field wire to the dynostart and the last wire is the D+ connection to the dynostart. what I don't understand is that other regulators have a contact for the warning light and where would I connect an ampmeter?? Oh, I forgot, the Neg battery terminal is connected directly to the Dynostart caseing with a link over to the regulator chassis.. One other thing there is a website that has a complete workshop manual the D1, MD1, D2 and MD2 the date of your engine is between 1956 - 1970 I will fish it out for you and send you the link or I could email it to you if you wish.
Regards Eric |
eric
Member
Username: eric
Post Number: 14
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Saturday, February 06, 2010 - 02:41 pm: |
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I have uploaded it for you all |
rockyrowed
New member
Username: rockyrowed
Post Number: 2
Registered: 12-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 09, 2010 - 08:05 pm: |
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i have a md2b flywheel/fanbelt driven dynastart
with no wires/wiring,regulator,relay,startswitch,nothing.can someone out there that knows these systems post subsitute parts from lets say napa is this possible to do ?
from a project/1958 21'bellboy pulled 292 v8 wanting to/trying to install md2b the dynastart has 4 spots for wires 3/4 ?/df,d-,30 |
adsum
Member
Username: adsum
Post Number: 17
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2010 - 03:08 am: |
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I have some diagrams with solutions but I need an email adress to sent them because they exceed the upload limits. |
adsum
Member
Username: adsum
Post Number: 18
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2010 - 05:42 am: |
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eric
Member
Username: eric
Post Number: 16
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2010 - 07:05 am: |
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The original regulator incorporated a starter solonoid but they are hard to come by, you could use an external solonoid. You have to realise that the dynostart is a starter and dynamo combined, for the starter side all wires have to be heavy duty and just like a car operates in the same way, the dynamo side is very different and it is essencial that a current from the starter switch through the ignition light activates the field coils within the dynastart or you will have no charge to the battery. The diagrams that Adsum have just listed are very helpful but try and get hold of the original Lucus Dynastart regulator this will save you a heap of problems.
I will try and fish out my home made wiring diagram which makes it very simple to follow, this may take a little time as I have mountains of papers to sort through.
Best of luck..
Eric |
adsum
Member
Username: adsum
Post Number: 19
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2010 - 04:11 pm: |
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The original volt regulator with built in solenoid is obsolete. I was not from Lucas.
It was the Bosch ZAD 14V 11A nr. 0 190 219 001
I still have the box of the one that allmost 25 years ago was mounted in our boat and it works properly.
 |
adsum
Member
Username: adsum
Post Number: 20
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2010 - 04:20 pm: |
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Take a look here:
http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/5/132669.html
same stuff. |
eric
Member
Username: eric
Post Number: 17
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, November 11, 2010 - 04:12 am: |
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The MD2 engine I renovated and sold about three months ago had a Lucus combi regulator/solonoid not the bosch but I can only think that maybe two were used over a period of the ten year manufacturing span of the engine. The combi unit was very easy to wire as with all Lucus parts they use letters instead of numbers = B (battery) WL (warning light) etc.You just have to ensure that you polorise the dynastart to save a reverse current. It had three bobbins, one operated the solonoid, one the power serge from the dynastart and one for the charge output to the battery. simple.. |
eric
Member
Username: eric
Post Number: 18
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, November 11, 2010 - 04:33 am: |
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In answer to you original question Rockyrowed the four posts on the dynastart are, the biggest half way up is the heavy duty connection from the solonoid for the starter side. the one nearest to it is the earth connection into the shassis (also heavy duty) The two smaller ones are (F) field windings to regulator and the last is (D) also to the regulator. The use of alternative regulators is not really reccomended as any regulator is set up to match the dynastart and if you are not qualified, or have the knowledge to adjust them, the regulator will burn out in a flash. I know this from bitter experience. But good luck anyway. |
rockyrowed
New member
Username: rockyrowed
Post Number: 3
Registered: 12-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, November 11, 2010 - 11:42 pm: |
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thanks adsum and eric ill give a try thank you my email [email protected] any manuals would be great shop/parts catalog also think vw stuff might work |
rockyrowed
Member
Username: rockyrowed
Post Number: 5
Registered: 12-2009
| | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 02:43 am: |
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THE VW COMMENT ANY POSSIBLE PART NUMBERS?
IVE COPYED THE INFO ABOVE GOING TO TRY TO GET THE PARTS THANKS AGAIN. |
adsum
Member
Username: adsum
Post Number: 22
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 03:57 am: |
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The Swiss firm Ochsnerag mentions an original Bosch voltage regulator nr. 0 190 219 001 in their catalogue. Maybe it's new old stock.
I don't agree with the opinion that original is better then the alternatives. The modern alternatives are based on state of the art solid state technique without the wear of moving parts. Their function is the same as that of the original parts but the technique is improved.
http://www.ochsnerag.ch/files/D016-D017_Regler.pdf |
adsum
Member
Username: adsum
Post Number: 23
Registered: 01-2008
| | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 04:23 am: |
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I saw a Lucas volt regulator RB 340 on eBay for 18 GBP, that is cheap. I think that it has no solenoid built in but that is a minor problem.
In the Ochsne pricelist the equivalent Lucas NCB 134 costs about 70 GPB incl. VAT excl. shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.nl/LUCAS-DYNAMO-REGULATOR-RB340-12V-11AMP-/290429131082 |
eric
Member
Username: eric
Post Number: 19
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Friday, November 12, 2010 - 06:15 am: |
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You are right the RB340 does NOT have a built in solenoid and 18 quid for one of them is dear.Have you tried hunting around old scrap yards? or contacting old engine clubs in your area, you may be suprised what people still have in their garages.
The starter solenoid is the easiest part of the system as any one from an old car will do, all it is is a heavy duty switch operated by a magnetic relay bobbin. The RB340 could act as the regulator but I found that is was very hard to adjust the voltage input to match the dynamo side of the dynastart. I found that the resistor on the rear got very hot.
I agree that the modern equivelents are better and could be adapted for the use but before buying one first consult an old auto electrician who has knowledge and experience of the types available, good auto electrician companies have test beds so you can take your dynastart down to get electrical readouts thus matching one with the other. Even here on the million year old Isle of Wight we have such places for testing so you should have no problem on the mainland.
PS.. When starting your MD2 always use the de-compression leaver, let it fly round about three times then throw the lever over, this way you will save your battery from overload. I always fit a solar trickle charger in my boats to keep the batteries toped up but always disconnect them before starting as the energy surge will damage them.
regards, Eric |
gaurdian101
Member
Username: gaurdian101
Post Number: 12
Registered: 09-2010
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 02, 2011 - 07:31 pm: |
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I have a volvo md2 and I'm about to put this engine into my boat and I have no diagram for the wireing it has the Dynostart on it and nothing else for wiring looking to find out how to get this engine charging and running right any info would be most grateful vince |
eric
Member
Username: eric
Post Number: 20
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Thursday, February 03, 2011 - 07:48 am: |
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Vince, you will find all the answers further up this site from wiring diagrams to the type of regulators/solonoids you require. Before you start, take the dynostart off and have it checked out by a qualified auto electrician. Worn out brushes and contometer segments are a major problem with these old dynostarts and you can pay £800 for a total overhall. The MD2 is a super little engine if maintained propely, I know, I sold one last year which I had fully rewired and restored. Let me know if you have any problems. Eric |
gutbrodtractor
New member
Username: gutbrodtractor
Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2016
| | Posted on Monday, August 22, 2016 - 07:46 am: |
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hi. my friend has a gutbrod tractor and a dynastart with very rusty contacts. no good. can you send me a circuit diagram of the whole circuit please, and new type replacement unit circuit with pin outs. many thanks. gerald |
