| Author |
Message |
    
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 475
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 01:10 pm: | 
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Here is a a short video on the engine and boat that is in progress.
The hard parts are done i.e. the bow and keel / stern post repair.
Now for the more mundane but important parts - planking and sealing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQpfErS-iwE
miro |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 1238
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 02:29 pm: |
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Neat! |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 548
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Monday, July 19, 2010 - 08:08 pm: |
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Good work Miro, keep it up and it could see Belle River in the spring. |
rbprice
Senior Member
Username: rbprice
Post Number: 325
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 21, 2010 - 09:57 pm: |
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Great work Miro - JB's right, it would look wonderful putting down the Belle River next spring.
Your electrical box looks very much like mine except I used Poplar instead of white oak. |
johnny
Senior Member
Username: johnny
Post Number: 324
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Friday, July 30, 2010 - 11:44 am: |
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Nice job! Miro. can not wait to see it finished and video of it on the water.
Question: Does the coil setup you built have any advantage over regular buzz type coil? Like a model T buzz coil or stationary type buzz coil? More dependable? |
johnny
Senior Member
Username: johnny
Post Number: 325
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Friday, July 30, 2010 - 11:48 am: |
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There, I feel better now, I got the same amount of post as Bob.  |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 478
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 09:13 am: |
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I have found that the modern ignition coils (modern compared to 70 years ago) produce higher voltage when connected to the JB style automotive relay interrupter.
The frequency of making and breaking is much much higher than a conventional Model T couil.
The auto relays almost squeal compared to the buzz coils - think of a mosquito near your ear.
That means that the rate of change of current (dI/dT) is much higher.
And since the voltage produce is a function of dI /dT , you get higher output voltage.I have also found it might be necessary to limit the current to 1.5 A - 2A by inserting a 1 or 2 Ohm resistor ( 10 watt rating or greater) in series with the ignition coil) .
You can even use a 6 V ignition coil with the 12 V auto relay arrangement if you add the a 2 to 3 ohm resistor.
There is no material effect on the spark produced but it does extend the life of the ignition coil y reducing the amount of internal heat produced by the current.
miro |
rbprice
Senior Member
Username: rbprice
Post Number: 329
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 10:03 am: |
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Do we need to immerse the resistors in liquid nitrogen to keep them cool Miro? And should there be large red and yellow warnings on the cover of the box containing the circuitry warning passersby of the extreme danger from all that dI/dT rushing about inside? :o) |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 479
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 02:39 pm: |
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Here's a further video on the progress.
I completed 2 coats of CPES on the outside, then flipped it over ( with the help of SWMBO, seen quickly exiting)and put 2 coats of the stuff on the inside.
Also started experimenting with steaming the ribs - not as hard as I thought it would be.
I expect to have the ribs completed next week, with another coat of CPES on them.
Then upside down again to complete the filling and fairing.
Miro
Here's the You Tube link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ljp_zk5xl5g |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 57
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 09:46 pm: |
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Miro, She's looking good. Have you thought about fitting the ribs straight from the steamer?
I found for that sort of job just having good footware (to bare down on the rib when drilling and fastening) and starting from the keel and working upwards was fine. The bit of shrinkage in the swollen rib as it dries and cools helps keep things tight. Regards |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 480
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Friday, August 06, 2010 - 12:59 am: |
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I experimented with taking the ribs directly from the steam box to the boat, but there was a lot of pressure needed to get the rib to ( sort of) conform to the hull shape.
That's why I ended up making the pre-bending jig, to over bend the rib, and then as it is being fastened from the keel upward, it snugs to the hull planking.
I also found that soaking the ribs in the weak solution of fabric softener for a couple of days help keep the ribs pliable.
The fellow who gave me that tip said that after they cool they feel waxy, but that goes away and there seems to be no problem with getting varnish of paint to stick to the ribs.
We'll see how it all comes out.
Miro |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 58
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2010 - 07:51 pm: |
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Miro, I appreciate the situation. Your ribs appear to be fairly thick (i.e. at least 5/8 inch?). In Oz we tend to to use 'spotted gum' (read very hard)for ribs and I've found that soaking for at least a week makes the steaming much easier. The fabric conditioner idea is new to me. I hope it doesn't remove too much of the natural oils in the rib. I also have the steamer set up so that the ribs are too hot to handle without leather gloves. Regards |
johnoxley
Member
Username: johnoxley
Post Number: 7
Registered: 04-2010
| | Posted on Sunday, August 08, 2010 - 10:24 pm: |
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You are on the right track. Sometimes Australian Boats used imported American Rock Elm, but as confidence in local timbers increased, the shift was to Spotted Gum (Eucalypt hardwood). We did the restoration of a few bigger vessels here with 2" x 4" Spotted Gum, but insisted the timber was still green. We used an old laundry boiler for steam supply via a rubber hose (we also removed the steam stop valve internals so the boiler could not make pressure!). The frames were ripped as we were getting too many breakages. We also steamed 10" x 2 1/2" Spotted Gum for shelf beams and stringers, agin specifying green timber.
Soaking will get some of the moisture back into the timber and I guess the fabric softener acts as a wetting agent.
We have had no success steaming already seasoned timber.
We also fit the timbers straight into the boat as this gives the bevel as well. The bending jigs shown in the Youtube segment will shape the frame/floor to the hull section, but not the bevel. How do you arrive at the bevel?
Andy
Andy |
sinbad
Advanced Member
Username: sinbad
Post Number: 37
Registered: 07-2005
| | Posted on Monday, August 09, 2010 - 12:51 am: |
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Miro, Just a couple of tips re. steaming and fitting ribs from my apprenticeship days in NZ some 55 years ago. In those days we used Japanese oak and spotted gum moastly and mangeo (spelling?)a NZ timber that could be tied in knots when steamed. The ribs would be soaked in raw linseed oil for a day or two prior to steaming. The steam opened the pours of the timber and drove the oil into the ribs carrying the heat with it. This would help preserve the rib too.
The hull planking only was pre drilled and copper nails were started in the holes.
The ribs were usually fitted by a senior boy in the boat with a junior boy assisting outside. The hot rib would be passed into the boat where it was copper spiked to the kelson. The rib was foeced into place with the foot and twisted and bent by hand as the boy would drive the nails through the rib (undrilled) and a heavy dolly was used to force the rib down to the planking and would provide solid nailing resistance. This would progress up the hull to the gun'le. The nails were then roved, cut and clenched (rivited) while still hot. Most ribs were fitted this way from gun'le to gun'le. The ribs would set hard when cold and very few would be split by the nails.
We would rib a 27ft clinker (lapstrake) whaler, ribs at 4 inches, in a day. |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 484
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 10:30 am: |
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Latest update:
Last Tuesday, I steamed the ribs and got them pliable enough to fit them quite well.
Yes, I DID have heavy boots on that helped force the rib to conform to the hull shape.
I checked the moisture content of the original kiln dried white - it was in the 10% - 12% range.
After drying for 5 days the ribs are at 12% .
The waxy surface feel on the ribs due to the fabric softener is gone.
So I'm please that it has gone as well as it has.
I'll post pictures next week.
I'm pleased that the quarter sawn white oak, kiln dried worked out OK, because I could not find either green white oak or air dried white oak that was quarter sawn.
miro |
laurie_d
Senior Member
Username: laurie_d
Post Number: 61
Registered: 10-2009
| | Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 07:02 pm: |
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Miro, You have every right to be as pleased as a dog with two tails. As it is written in the book of Noah 'What the kiln taketh the Steamer shall return. As it was with the Ark, it is now, and ever shall be...(or at least whenever there is wood to be steamed)' Enjoy the rset of the project. |
