| Author |
Message |
    
ross.flowerday
New member
Username: rossco
Post Number: 1
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2010 - 07:03 am: | 
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i am trying to dismantle p55 having trouble removing front half of crankcase without force any clues thank you |
ross.flowerday
New member
Username: rossco
Post Number: 2
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 11, 2010 - 05:56 am: |
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is no one going to suggest anything
thank you ross |
steven john page
Member
Username: fairbanks
Post Number: 25
Registered: 12-2007
| | Posted on Tuesday, May 11, 2010 - 05:04 pm: |
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Hello Ross, sorry no one has come forward with any suggestion, I have rebuilt two of these in the last 12mnths and i have removed the four long bolts and use a piece of hard wood 25mmx25mmx 300mm with a hammer and tap around the casting evenly and gently to tease the casting forward to open the joint. i think the trick is to ease the casting off the MJ Bearing,Once you have opened the joint i would use a couple of non metalic leavers one either side to ease it the rest of the way.it has worked for me and there is no reason why it shouldnt for you as long as you go carefully. i hope this helps. steve |
george Martin
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 04:38 am: |
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I have done several and the method is basically the same. Start with a knife edge in gap in 2 or 3 places, heat evenly with a blow lamp around the bulge where the bearing outer is, only get heat up to 300deg max, that will be enough to ease the bearing a bit. Strike the crankshaft end protecting thread.
Best of luck.
G. |
ross.flowerday
New member
Username: rossco
Post Number: 3
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 06:19 am: |
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thank you steve i have been doing this i will hit it harder and try a bit of george"s heat as well
ross |
steven john page
Member
Username: fairbanks
Post Number: 27
Registered: 12-2007
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 06:14 pm: |
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Hi Ross, have you any photo,s of your engine.regards steve |
Miah Gregory
Member
Username: mace
Post Number: 12
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Friday, June 18, 2010 - 04:17 pm: |
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I'm trying to split my crankcase too, but to no avail, the only thing I've not yet tried is the non-metallic levers - any suggestions on what would be strong enough to serve this purpose?
Currently have got as far as a 2mm gap all around, with the outer half quite loose feeling.
Suggestions appreciated.
Thanks! |
Miah Gregory
Member
Username: mace
Post Number: 13
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Friday, June 18, 2010 - 04:34 pm: |
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Perhaps should've said, mine is a P5 not P55. |
steven john page
Member
Username: fairbanks
Post Number: 30
Registered: 12-2007
| | Posted on Saturday, June 19, 2010 - 05:08 pm: |
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Hi Miah, i recently came across a product advertised in the FROST catalogue called RustBuster , product N150 £ 3.00 a bottle with applicator nozzle on page04. if your crank case is difficult to seperate apply a few drops of this product down the stud holes on the crank case and leave for the recommended time in the instruction it should make it a easier to seperate the two halves. i have used this product on main bearings on shafts and recessed bearings in castings such as on stuarts and it couldnt be easier, have a look on the following website. www.frost.co.uk
best of luck steve. |
Miah Gregory
Member
Username: mace
Post Number: 14
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Saturday, June 19, 2010 - 09:04 pm: |
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Hi Steve,
Thanks for your reply.
So far three of the studs have unscrewed so they are all free, and the remaining one feels like it isn't binding - a far cry from the trouble we had removing the cylinder - two or three of those studs were rusted solid and removal actually removed the brass inserts!
I suspect the problem I'm having is with the bearing being tight onto the outer half of the crankcase, and I'm somewhat tempted to try to reassemble the crankcase without separating it further, except when i retighten the studs/nuts to close the gap between the two halves, the crankshaft no longer turns - something is obviously binding.
Will give the RustBuster a look though for future reference; it sounds like a great help!
Thanks,
Miah |
steven john page
Advanced Member
Username: fairbanks
Post Number: 31
Registered: 12-2007
| | Posted on Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 08:44 am: |
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Hello Miah, which end is it that is giving you the most problems does the collet turn on the shaft,i find it helps to make sure the shaft is clean and smooth especialy around the keyways.if its not turning then i would have used a few drops of the rustbuster it realy does work you know,
Have you tried using some heat localy around where the bearing is housed. when i have difficulty in removing cylinder blocks i use hard wood wedges they are disposable and dont damage the castings.All this advise is only intended to help a fellow enthusiast ,i am not trying to tell you how to suck eggs.The first stuart i rebuilt was 3yrs ago and have been rebuilding them eversince from R2s to P55s its all part of the the learning curve. i hope ive been of some help. regards steve. |
ross.flowerday
Member
Username: rossco
Post Number: 4
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 05:29 am: |
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hello miah try this one i had removed geabox and started to disassemble from there so while playing around up the front everything started to leave the rear housing all of sudden i had the front housing and crankshaft as a unit on the bench so i supported front housing on pieces of timber and gave crankshaft a severe headache with a lump of redgum (aussie hardwood) bingo
now to get the crankpin nuts of some body has welded them to the crank web never ends |
Miah Gregory
Member
Username: mace
Post Number: 15
Registered: 05-2008
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 22, 2010 - 10:15 am: |
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Thanks for all the suggestions; for now I've elected to take the engine to an engineer who has the relevant tools etc.
One thing he did ask - there appears to be around an inch of deflection in the timing/water pump chain - is this normal for a P5?
Thanks. |
