| Author |
Message |
    
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 466
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 01:43 pm: | 
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Here's the work I did over the weekend.
I did manage to get a fair amount out, but kept the heat very gentle to prevent the wood from shrinking and splitting.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qW5pjW0M4lU
It seems the CPES product from Smith's might be the answer.
So the steps are to extract as much of the oil as I can (without splitting the wood), complete the repairs on the stern and stem posts and punky planking and then give the whole shebang 2 coats of this stuff.
That's the plan - thank you all for talking me out of fiberglass over the wood.
miro |
richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 2419
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 07, 2010 - 02:40 pm: |
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Miro
Your movies are just great! Cool old boat and project !
Reminds me of the old wood boat refinishers down here, they would put the open boats out in the hot Florida sun and sprinkle sawdust over the oily areas !
* |
jw_smietana
Member
Username: jw_smietana
Post Number: 19
Registered: 09-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 10:37 pm: |
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Lovely boat,I want a ride,off to cool springs and a hicks
Friend John |
restor4
New member
Username: restor4
Post Number: 2
Registered: 01-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 09, 2010 - 01:47 am: |
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I used to take oil out of furniture by drenching the are with G.P. Thinners and then covering it with talcum powder, the thinners would dilute the oil and it would then be absorbed by the talcum powder.
Seeing how well your heating box worked I would put talcum powder under the box during the warming process.
When there is only a little oil left in the wood, I doubt you'll get it all out, you can bind the oil with a catalyst to the timber, this would be a catalyst as used in waterproofing acrylic solutions. |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 470
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 14, 2010 - 11:44 am: |
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Would the Smith's CPES bind the oil into the wood?
I'm still at the wood repair stage so I'm open to suggestions.
Any thoughts as to filling in the gouges and various bumps and dings into the wood?
miro |
robert
Senior Member
Username: robert
Post Number: 377
Registered: 07-2003
| | Posted on Monday, June 14, 2010 - 12:49 pm: |
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If I were going to do this, I'd use heat lamps on one side (no box needed) and sprinkle bentonite clay on the other side. You can buy it from pottery suppliers. It would work without heat of course, as bentonite has great 'pulling' power. Of course the bentonite would have to be pressure-washed off afterwards as it gets into the pores of the wood to some extent being as fine as talcum. |
richarddurgee
Senior Member
Username: richarddurgee
Post Number: 2421
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Monday, June 14, 2010 - 01:03 pm: |
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http://www.smithandcompany.org/products.html
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jdheinzmann
Member
Username: jdheinzmann
Post Number: 17
Registered: 08-2009
| | Posted on Thursday, June 17, 2010 - 10:54 pm: |
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Dear Miro,
I too have some motor-oil-soaked wood to deal with in my launch restoration project (http://www.oldmarineengine.com/discus/messages/4/133386.html). A friend of mine suggested the use of this product: http://integraenvironmental.com/pdfs/MarineClean%20Flyer.pdf which uses microbes to digest the oil. It even supplies the oxygen needed by the microbes. I don't know how well it draws the oil out of the wood, nor do I know how much it costs. Looks like it comes only in large quantities. My friend reports great success with a sister product called "PowerClean" on motor-oil-soaked cement floors during restoration of old buildings. |
