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miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 462
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 09:36 am: | 
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Here's the link to the You Tube video about my project for this year.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_F-x1b_3t00
The boat is from about 1910 making 100 years old. It has some "issues" to deal with but I expect to have it completed by August - a nice centennial celebration for the old boat.
SWMBO has named it "Fannie" after the fantail launch design.
Originally from Rochester New York, operating as a jitney taxi at the mouth of the Genesee River taking passengers between two summer amusement parks. Apparently the first bridge across the river was quite a distance from the river mouth so this boat took folks across and back.
There will be other pictures as I move through the exquisite agonies of old wooden boat restoration.
miro |
ernie
Senior Member
Username: ernie
Post Number: 1202
Registered: 01-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 01:39 pm: |
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Miro,
Neat!
Just as long as it is Fannie as my better half has named mine Fanny.
Looking forward to more pics
Ernie |
keith
Senior Member
Username: keith
Post Number: 295
Registered: 02-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 04:49 pm: |
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Nice project Miro,
Any idea as to who built the launch? Look forward to viewing your progress.
Keith |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 541
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 08:55 pm: |
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Very nice Miro, I'm supprised by the lightweight construction. Keep us posted. |
johnny
Senior Member
Username: johnny
Post Number: 304
Registered: 03-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 11:13 am: |
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Miro,
That is a nice looking old boat you have, just needs some work. What will you do about the oil soaked wood? Replace all of it? or is there a way to get the oil out? |
miro
Senior Member
Username: miro
Post Number: 464
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 03:49 pm: |
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Yup that's one of the issues - the oily wood.
The present approach is to mechanically fasten and epoxy glue a veneer ( 1/4 in cedar) to the hull on a diagonal, then fiberglass over that layer.
But before doing that, see if I get leach out some of the oil ( acetone) to allow a good bond with the epoxy.
An experiment , to be sure.
The first step though is to get the stern post repaired.
miro |
frank_petran
Senior Member
Username: frank_petran
Post Number: 114
Registered: 05-2009
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 08:33 pm: |
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Normally I don’t like people soap boxing on discussion boards so I have tried not to do so myself but this is an exception. I have been in wood boats for over 50 years and had a few of my restorations win at boat shows and I, along with 90% of the good boat restoration shops abhor the very mention of using fiberglass over wood. We all agree on the fact that it keeps the water from coming into the boat but and more importantly it keep the water in. As a not too well know fact, fiberglass, resin impregnated with glass fibers weep water along the glass fibers and will help build up a layer of moisture between the wood and fiberglass bond along with any water that finds it’s way there because on cracks or week fastener joints leading to accelerated dry rot. Smith’s CEPS applied to the wood will help some but never completely prevent that action. This now becomes a week spot and possible a failure of large proportion when one is out on the water and rough seas start to buffet the vessel. All of us take great pains to make sure our engines are repaired properly using the right parts and materials, all machined to the best possible specs, and are in great condition, We should do the same for the platform on which they are expected to perform on.
Leaching the oil with acetone, lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol is a good start. Then apply 2 coats of Smith’s CEPS. Instead of bonding the veneer with epoxy, look into 3M5200 for that. It is stong, flexable and adhears to almost anything forming a watertight bond. Most all of the wood boat restorers use 3M5200 as a bonding material and use silicon bronze fasteners to secure the veneer. I toured Hacker Craft a couple of years ago and saw how they did it. Epoxy is a ridged hard material; wood is a softer flexible and breathing material. Flexing of a boat causes the outer wood cells that the epoxy is applied to, to sheer off from the next layer over a period of time. The softer the wood, the quicker the sheer action begins to take place.
As long as I am doing a boat for myself and time isn’t a real big problem I replace the damaged or weak wood. I am using time as a cost consideration for that is by far the largest portion of a repair bill for a customer.
Sorry for the long winded post. Frank |
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