| Author |
Message |
    
Nick Meletis
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, June 11, 2006 - 10:15 pm: | 
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I have first replaced the Pump impeller and it had several teeth missing. Still over heats, removed the thermostat and checked it out in boiling water and it was fine . Replaced , then removed the hose at the bottom of the close system of the round radiator. Found the rubber missing teeth, still over heating. What next , replace the risers? Please help |
jules
Advanced Member
Username: jules
Post Number: 32
Registered: 08-2005
| | Posted on Monday, June 12, 2006 - 09:55 pm: |
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If the engine was not flished with fresh water after use salt deposites may have built up inside the head and cylinder housing, try flushing with a high preasure cleaner. |
mrpos
New member
Username: mrpos
Post Number: 3
Registered: 06-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 13, 2006 - 09:13 am: |
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If the water supply is good and you are overheating, you have 2 possibilities. It is being blocked from leaving at the risers, or you have a cracked exhaust manifold or blown head gasket. A cracked mainfold will usually manifest itself by heating up before the rest of the engine. A blown head gasket may be detected by a compression check or water in a cylinder. Good luck! |
Pete Parks
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 04:07 pm: |
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I have twin 1976 318 Chrysler engines. I have read alot of conflicting information on the proper operating temperatures.
The engines are raw water cooled. From Seacock to water pump, then out the exhaust.
Temperatures usually run around 180. Have been told they should run alot cooler.
Any information would be appreciated. |
mrpos
Member
Username: mrpos
Post Number: 4
Registered: 06-2006
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 14, 2006 - 04:18 pm: |
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A 160- 165 F Thermostat would be more suitable. |
dwwcanada
New member
Username: dwwcanada
Post Number: 1
Registered: 07-2006
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 04, 2006 - 12:02 pm: |
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I have a 1971 318 chrysler, and have similar issues, If I run at just under 3000 rpm, the starboard engine temp stays put, but as soon as I increase the RPM above 3000, the temp goes up, and you can smell it (overheating) in the engine compartment. I can smell the exhaust manifold, as well as the hose attached to it gets SUPER hot. My intake on the manifold is under the front part of the manifold, so I use a copper pipe, as it is indicated on the instructions for the replacement manifold, possibly copper is cracked or bad. I am replaceing the manifold this weekend, as I checked all (raw water system only) the waterpump, new impellors, and t-stat are working, and water does flow generously out the exhaust. I can only suspect now a manifold or elbow. |
worden
New member
Username: worden
Post Number: 1
Registered: 06-2009
| | Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2009 - 04:48 pm: |
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i, have a chrysler 318 that wants to overheat. It has a closed water system. Have checked pump heat exchanger ,thermostat,oil cooleer,flushed engie with h2o, hAVE YOU ANY IDEAS ??? TKS. HAROLD |
richardday
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 765
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, June 21, 2009 - 09:37 pm: |
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When all else seems to fail check there is no necking down with carbon of the exhaust line where it joins the exhaust manifold. The cooling water is injected downstream from that junction and one sees normal water flow out the exhaust pipe. |
T Bennett
Visitor
| | Posted on Sunday, August 02, 2009 - 02:04 am: |
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I am having two problems at the moment. I bought a 1966 Marinette with a 318 single engine. I have not heard it run but the previous owner said it had a fresh engine instslled about 2 years ago but has been sitting. He stated that after it was installed and was running it seemed to over heat on one side. what could that be. But first after buying the boat I tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over. The starter enguaged but would not turn the engine over. It seemed to grind. After a couple of clicks it wouldn't do anything. I hit the starter with a hammer and it would click again and stop again. I had the batteries at full charge. I removed the plugs and turned the motor over approx three rounds and it seems to be free and found no water in the cylinders. is this a starter problem or could there be something else creating the problem. Thanks |
danny rheaume
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 01:28 am: |
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to t bennet,had simular sittuation remove all ground connections,wire brush all bolts and around where they touch ,it works,your ground is the broblem!! |
T Bennett
Visitor
| | Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 10:27 pm: |
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Thanks Danny I will try that. I looked at the ground and it appeared to be clean but under the bolt and connector could have corrosion I guess. Anything seems better than changing the starter because it looks like I will have to disconnect the propeller shaft, motor mounts, and lift the engine to remove the starter. |
hank7988
New member
Username: hank7988
Post Number: 1
Registered: 05-2010
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 05:41 am: |
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318 chrysler in a trojan tore motor down to the block i was getting water in oil i had heads redone an the intake manifold put all new gaskets in water manifolds an clean an inspected while off put 1 new riser on put new gaskets on front of motor from block out new water pump as well put all new gaskets everywere an torked everything an im still getting water in the oil i dont no where its coming from i looked the block over good but cant see any cracks in the inatake vally this is were im told they crack but all looks good i need help its got to be something dumb thanks hank |
fastimes
Member
Username: fastimes
Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2010
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 08:12 am: |
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Is the engine getting water into the cylinders? if it is not getting water into the cylinders then i would look to see if it has an oil cooler, this is a possible problem. Also is the oil milky ......it is very hard to get all of the water out of the oil without getting it to operating temp and basicaly boiling it out |
solarrog
Senior Member
Username: solarrog
Post Number: 435
Registered: 03-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 11:19 am: |
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I ran across the same problem on a 69 plymouth car. It turned out that the timing chain cover had corrosion in the cooling passages allowing leakage. take a look in the water pump/timing cover water mating surfaces
Roger |
jyoors
New member
Username: jyoors
Post Number: 1
Registered: 09-2010
| | Posted on Friday, September 03, 2010 - 05:57 pm: |
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i have a 1973 chrysler 318, it is freshwater cooled with raw water cooled exhaust. my starbourd exhaust manifold is overheadting but the port is not.
what can i do to fix this? |
Guest2
Visitor
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 10:36 pm: |
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Check the exhaust manifolds by taking off a riser and look at the end for the outer water jackets around the outside of the exhaust port which are thin long holes. They can get clogged with rust and crud causing no water flow. The manifolds can be boiled out at a radiator shop or if too far gone replace. |
DaveHavlick
Visitor
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 04, 2015 - 12:53 am: |
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Ok, I have a 1971 Chrysler 318 (225) and the right side exhaust was not putting out water when running. I read a bunch of marine forums that talked about what it might be. Like the exhaust manifold is plugged, the thermostat is bad to the water pump is not working. When we took it out one day the belt pully was jammed and was not turning got it to work but to late for the damage. We pulled the manifold, checked it, all ok, put back together. We started engine and pulled off each hose to see how system worked and and narrowed it down to the riser or something with the return water in the manifold. We decided to take off the manifold and riser again and take in to get boiled and cleaned but while doing so we needed to take off the exhaust tube and found the tube had been melted fron the inside and blocked the exhaust and water from coming out and over heating the engine.While the belt stopped it was not pushing water thru engine which caused the exhaust to melted and seal the inside of the exhaust tube. Replaced exhaust tube. Possible cure for someone else having the same issues. Engine runs like a champ now. |
summerscape
Member
Username: summerscape
Post Number: 5
Registered: 04-2015
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 04, 2015 - 10:20 am: |
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Does your engine have transmission line coolers? If so, the broken pieces of rubber from the impeller may be stuck in the trans cooler preventing water from circulating causing both overheating and poor water circulation. Those broken rubber pieces had to go somewhere. |
buchanan_guy
New member
Username: buchanan_guy
Post Number: 2
Registered: 11-2015
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2015 - 11:32 am: |
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I see a lot of good information here! I agree with all of the posts. With impeller failure, always clean the rubber remains out of the cooler! it could be a head gasket if RPM makes a difference. One thing I did not see noted anywhere was the plumbing to the raw water pump? My experience has been if the two intake lines from the sweet potato get switched, it can affect cooling, as one impeller in the pump (if a twin impeller pump) goes to the manifolds, and one to the block - if switched, the "recycled" warm water can direct to the manifolds in stead of to the block again, causing heat to build. hope this helps |
jb_castagnos
Senior Member
Username: jb_castagnos
Post Number: 1121
Registered: 07-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2015 - 01:38 pm: |
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I have a 318 engine with what looks like new manifolds, don't know anything about it, was removed from a Chriscraft boat, original engine put back in. |
