| Author |
Message |
    
ChipG
Visitor
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 03:00 pm: | 
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Do you have photos or detailed diagrams about the valves/pushrods/rocker arms/cam shaft/etc on the P-60 that you could share with me? I can see through the spark plug holes that there are two valves aligned forward and aft slightly off-set from each of the spark plug holes. Would like to know which one is intake and which one is exhaust. In my #3 cylinder, I can see that the forward valve is getting stuck in the open position. I can manually push it down by using a tool to press down on it through the spark plug hole. If I then rotate the fly wheel, it reopens but sticks open. All other valves seem to be working properly. Up until now, my P-60 has been reasonably reliable but now I cannot get it to run well... understandbly considering the sticking valve I suppose. I am trying to avoid removing the motor and wondering if you have any suggestions as to things I might try to get it working again?
Thank you! |
Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 241
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 06:08 pm: |
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It's a flathead so there are no rocker arms. Cover plates for access to valves are under the intake and exaust manifolds. |
Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 242
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 07:21 pm: |
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You might see if you can get some Marvel Mystery Oil on the bad valve stem when the valve is in the open position. Maybe it will free it up. |
Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 243
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 07:35 pm: |
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Did you check to see if the valve spring is broken? |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 768
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, July 02, 2009 - 08:13 pm: |
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Try to get a litle WD-40 or similar lubricant on the valve stem before you push it down. You may need to repeat the process several times to loosen up any rust in the stem. This suggests there is water getting back into that cylinder. If after several attempts and the valve does not snap back it suggests as Eddie says the spring is broken. If that is the case I suggest you remove the exhaust manifold from the side of the engine and remove the valve cover plate. Then you will be able to see the valve springs and probalbly be able to replace it without the need to remove the head. YOu can get a replacement spring from any CASE IHC Tractor dealer. Ask for the valve spring for the IHC CUB LO-boy C-60 engine. NOT CUB CADET You will want to get two replacement gaskets for the exhaust manifold to the block from the same dealer. |
ChipG
Visitor
| | Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 08:44 pm: |
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Thanks to all for the responses. Does anyone have photos of the process for removing the recommended items and what it looks like inside the area that will be uncovered by removing the valve cover plate? Just trying to get a sense for what I need to do. Is there any way to determine if the spring is broken without removing all these parts? I am primarily concerned about breaking bolts and components during the process and hope to get the engine running again with as minimal damage as possible. |
Eddie Ross
Senior Member
Username: eddie
Post Number: 244
Registered: 04-2003
| | Posted on Friday, July 03, 2009 - 09:19 pm: |
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To check if the spring is broken, push valve down but have something beneath so that you can also pull it back up. You should not be able to pull it back up as the spring is constantly pulling it shut except when the cam is lifting it. The valve assembly is a very standard style and is accessible from one of two cover plates beneath If the spring is broken it can be replaced through that cover plate access in the common method that valve springs are removed. |
Richard A. Day Jr.
Senior Member
Username: richardday
Post Number: 769
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, July 04, 2009 - 08:37 am: |
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Not knowing the access you have around the engine I suggested the exhaust manifold removal as it is quite obvious what you need to disconnect and it is held to the side of the engine block with studs. Its gaskets between it an the engine block are standard IHC gaskets easy to obtain. If you first determine if the spring is broken as I suggest with squrting a little WD-40 or some simmilar penetrating oil you can quickly determine without any need to do more than pull the spark plug. roll the engine over and it will push the valve up. Squirt the oil in under the valve. Roll the engine enough to allow the cam to release the valve stem. If the valve remains stuck open you know either it is rusted on the stem or the spring is broken. Tap on the valve and it should snap shut if the spring is not broken but it may be held by rust on the stem so repeat the process and after the oil gets worked in the stem it should start snapping closed. If that happens then you know the spring is good but you have a problem with why did the stem get stuck. This suggests the next step may be more complicated. Where is the moisture coming from. Cracked head, head gasket leaking,cracked manifold, exhaust restriction causing water to back up into the manifold?
The valve porting is simple. EIIEEIIE
Before doing anything drastic try to loosen the stuck valve is my reccomendaton.
Getting in there to replace the spring will not be an easy job. |
